Flywheel removal


partschaser


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Joined
Aug 2, 2026
Messages
7
Points
1
Age
56
City
Cameron
State - Country
TX - USA
Other
1973 super beetle
Vehicle Year
1998
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Stock w/ air shocks in rear
Total Drop
None
Tire Size
275/35-15
My credo
Work hard and be nice to people
1998 4.0l 5spd 2wd supercab

I'm replacing the clutch and slave cylinder and really want to replace the rear main on the engine.
I've broken 2 sockets and can't get any of the flywheel bolts to loosen for removal.
What am I doing wrong? Is it possible that they are left handed threads on these bolts?
Please help so i can get my danger ranger back on the road.
And thank you for any and all advice.
 
I don’t know about the OHV but my SOHC flywheel bolts were regular thread. It took a jolt to get them loose, I used a Milwaukee M12 ratchet on ‘em.

Edit: sorry I was thinking flexplate nuts. For the E12 bolts on my flywheel I used a Milwaukee impact driver on the highest setting.
 
I don’t know about the OHV but my SOHC flywheel bolts were regular thread. It took a jolt to get them loose, I used a Milwaukee M12 ratchet on ‘em.

Edit: sorry I was thinking flexplate nuts. For the E12 bolts on my flywheel I used a Milwaukee impact driver on the highest setting.
I have used an air impact, Craftsman 20v impact, and an old school impact that you beat with a hammer.
No movement, only succeeded in destroying 2 sockets.
This is a Ford reman engine dated 2016, idk the miles (or hours) on this but the truck has a hair over 430,000.
Could I possibly use a torch to coerce them to move?
The rear main seal has my truck under body coated with engine oil so I've been hesitant cuz I don't wanna have a car-b-que as a result....
 
I have used an air impact, Craftsman 20v impact, and an old school impact that you beat with a hammer.
No movement, only succeeded in destroying 2 sockets.
This is a Ford reman engine dated 2016, idk the miles (or hours) on this but the truck has a hair over 430,000.
Could I possibly use a torch to coerce them to move?
The rear main seal has my truck under body coated with engine oil so I've been hesitant cuz I don't wanna have a car-b-que as a result....
Did you try using the impact in the opposite (tightening) direction for a few seconds? Sometimes the back and forth can help break them free. Soak em with penetrating oil overnight? Heat is usually the next step I’d take but yea you gotta be really careful with it, especially around fumes etc.
 
8kDid you try using the impact in the opposite (tightening) direction for a few seconds? Sometimes the back and forth can help break them free. Soak em with penetrating oil overnight? Heat is usually the next step I’d take but yea you gotta be really careful with it, especially around fumes etc.
I have and the battery powered impact just gets angry with me, the air impact prolly doesn't have enough pressure so I'm gonna see about borrowing a bigger compressor from a buddy.
I have drowned all 8 bolts with PB blaster numerous times and amazingly enough, it didn't work.
I shall continue with this arduous task and I'm relieved to know that it's this hard because I'm fighting a monster and not because im in my 50's trying to power my way thru like im still in my 20's.
Thanks for your help.
This is a very well set up forum and I'm glad I found it.
 
Smack the heads of the bolts with a solid blunt punch and hammer. The shock could help relieve some tension. You could also find the tightest fitting box end wrench and smacking that with a good weight hammer.
 

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