Floor pan sound deadener

[87RangerXLTct]

Took the carpet out to pressure wash it, and noticed the floors were rusting from inside out. Treated the rust, primed and painted. How important is the sound deadener. I had to remove the factory stuff to get at the rust.
This is a budget build I’m just trying to make a reliable driver, it was sitting for 20 years.

 

[RobbieD]

That's some nice work there.

I'm curious what others have to say, about what to use.

I've yet to have to replace the sound deadener in any of my trucks, but I do like how it works on quieting down a regular road-driven truck.

Two possible options I've considered, to beef up what is there, is applying undercoating; or possibly using the heavier peel-and-stick underlayment as used in roofing.

 

[Curious Hound]

Wow! I would hate to desicrate that floor with anything. Looks great.

Large flat areas are the main points that will resonate and transmit noise the most. You don't have to cover every square inch. Carpet, itself should dampen and absorb some sound. Try it without and see how much the sound bothers you.

 

[87RangerXLTct]

Thanks guys,I think I will try it without any sound deadener for now. I mean there is jute on the back of the carpet so that should quiet it somewhat.
Guess I’ll throw the interior back together and focus on getting it running

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

If you don't like the level of dampening, I like B-Quiet.

 

[Roert42]

I hear it also helps with heat from the exhaust.

 

[SenorNoob]

I'd probably go with some of the same stuff I used under the hood myself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNPPSFLW/?tag=959media-20

It's cheap and seems to be effective on the hood at keeping heat down. If it holds up there it should be fine under carpet.

Maybe one day I'll get to that and the factory style vinyl flooring... (I wonder what home grade vinyl would do in a truck? It's super cheap at Ollies.)

Edit: Or maybe this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Cal-Diamond-Rubber-Flooring-8-Inch/dp/B005SUKZJ8?tag=959media-20

 

[Uncle Gump]

The PO of the G-Unit treated the sound deadening material like Franks Red Hot...

He put that shit on everything!

 

[SenorNoob]

I bet the ride was quiet at least.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Took the carpet out to pressure wash it, and noticed the floors were rusting from inside out. Treated the rust, primed and painted. How important is the sound deadener. I had to remove the factory stuff to get at the rust.
This is a budget build I’m just trying to make a reliable driver, it was sitting for 20 years.

For the floor, the best stuff to use is MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It's more of a noise barrier, won't cost a whole lot, and it'll be far superior than the factory patchwork.
Don't glue the MLV down to the sheet metal though, it'll defeat the purpose. Use some 3M spray adhesive and lay down a thin layer of closed cell foam first (like 1/8"), then cut the MLV to fit (I'd shoot for like 1/8" MLV as well) and lay on on top loose (it's really heavy and floppy). Use the seat bolts and panels and stuff to hold it in place, don't glue it as it needs to be uncoupled to work it's best. Be cautious of the really thick stuff though because you'll have trouble getting panels and stuff to fit back where they are supposed to go, I'd stick with the 1/8" stuff probably. You'll be shocked at how much road noise it will kill. I haven't done my RAnger yet, but that proj is on the list for later this ummer after I get the body work and paint all done.

 

[Li'l Work Truck]

For the floor, the best stuff to use is MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It's more of a noise barrier, won't cost a whole lot, and it'll be far superior than the factory patchwork.

I'm finding this anywhere from $119-$165 depending on the source and type (wrap, standard). Have you found a place to get it for less? I was planning aluminum-clad butyl for the entire cab, but this looks awesome for road noise at the firewall, foot wells, and attached to a ply panel at the back wall for my AIO sub.

 

[ForgedCrank]

I'm finding this anywhere from $119-$165 depending on the source and type (wrap, standard). Have you found a place to get it for less? I was planning aluminum-clad butyl for the entire cab, but this looks awesome for road noise at the firewall, foot wells, and attached to a ply panel at the back wall for my AIO sub.

120 bucks depending on the amount isn't out of line. also, MLV isn't a good choice for vertical or overhead because you can't glue it down. i thought before about drilling holes and using plastic push pins, but the stuff is heavy/dense and I don't think that would stand the test of time. for doors and other vertical surfaces, the best is butyl sound deader covered with a layer of closed cell foam (thicker is better but mind the clearances and interference. Also be weary of cheap butyl products. The glues aren't always good and the stuff will fall off in the heat of summer, get wound up in your window tracks and cables, and cause a general disaster. some people also try using that cheap roofing material stuff and every time they regret it. It doesn't work well for the purpose intended, and the smell literally never goes away. And good luck getting it off when they decide it was a bad idea. So get the good stuff for this, it's spendy, but leaves no regrets. Probably he best for the buck that is available is from ResoNix. Hands down, it beats everything else on the market.

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