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Fixer Upper trouble shooting


Have you had the spark plugs pulled and or replaced? the condition of the spark plug and tell volumes to an experienced technician one of the first things I always do what I need to me vehicle is at the spark plugs pulled.
 
Have you had the spark plugs pulled and or replaced? the condition of the spark plug and tell volumes to an experienced technician one of the first things I always do what I need to me vehicle is at the spark plugs pulled.

Was the first thing I did when I got her. They were good with normal wear.
 
Injectors were a bitch to pull out. I had to use carb cleaner to break her free around the o-rings in the LIM. They wouldn't come out with the fuel rail, and I pulled so hard I thought I was going to eat the cost of new ones, but they're free. Time for some DIY injector cleaning.
 
As an aside, to explain the level of neglect the prior owner displayed...

The leaf spring brackets were broke for more than a year, causing the springs to punch through the bed floor.

She drove it to my house on the day of the sale, then rode with me to the Bank to exchange cash for title. She reeked of beer.

Once paid, I offered a ride back to her house, but she wanted to be dropped off at the local Eagles Club.
 
People go through life without fixing things you can't blame them, you can't damn them, you certainly can't expect them, because that really is how many people are except for the mechanically inclined who can't sleep at night unless something fixed.

Hopefully the price you bought the truck for a reflects the effects of "deferred" maintenance.

Sold a near rust free 93 long bed 4 wheel drive 4.0 because I didn't want to lay out &2000 plus for an automatic transmission.

I bought, basically for the cost of new tires, this 94 super cab 4 wheel drive 4.0 with a bad M5OD transmission,
My friend Hank and I changed it out on a long weekend back in Sept, I think it was. The body is in great shape (unlike my body [emoji1787] )The frame of course, and everything underneath the truck are extremely rusty.
 
People go through life without fixing things you can't blame them, you can't damn them, you certainly can't expect them, because that really is how many people are except for the mechanically inclined who can't sleep at night unless something fixed.

Hopefully the price you bought the truck for a reflects the effects of "deferred" maintenance.

Sold a near rust free 93 long bed 4 wheel drive 4.0 because I didn't want to lay out &2000 plus for an automatic transmission.

I bought, basically for the cost of new tires, this 94 super cab 4 wheel drive 4.0 with a bad M5OD transmission,
My friend Hank and I changed it out on a long weekend back in Sept, I think it was. The body is in great shape (unlike my body [emoji1787] )The frame of course, and everything underneath the truck are extremely rusty.
I ain't bitching, per se... just saying. I bought the truck for $350, running and driving (albeit, rough), and the 4wd engages and works flawlessly... With that said, damn, change the oil every now and again :D
 
Hopefully this will help her tremendously. If not, at least she's getting her innards prettied up.

20181025_112235.jpg
 
Probable fix found

So, I got the LIM installed and let her sit overnight. I fill her fluids up, got the fuel pressure up, then fired her up. Same damn thing. Running like crap.

I go under the hood and hear a absolutely terrible vacuum leak, now. It is driver side, lower than the upper plenum. I grab some old garden hose, cut a length off and use it to spy around listening for the leak. Can't pin point it. I spray around listening for an idle change. None.

Then, I just happen to move the insulation for the egr up-tube to the plenum and the pitch changed.

I slide the insulation all the way up and she runs worse with the vacuum leak noise being enormous.

She has a rust hole in the up-tube. Apparently, when the insulation is slid down, it hides the leak, for the most part, and didn't allow the spray to get there to locate either. Most probably, when the egr opens up or closes, the leak changes enough to cause surging?

20181103_092323.jpg

20181103_092316.jpg



I know now where my next step is. Finally.

At least the LIM is new, fuel injectors cleaned, and everything above is like new.
 
It's always something basically simple or overlooked after all that work you did! a rusty tube.

I'm going slightly Bonkers trying to track down a shake I have in my truck between 45 and 60 mph seems like wheels and or tires even though they've balanced a couple times.
 
That hole (was smaller prior to wire brushing it), hidden by pipe insulation seems to be the devil I have been searching for. That same insulation held enough vacuum so the carb cleaner spray search for the leak was futile. Now, to find this part because Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's nor NAPA carries it and RockAuto is out of stock. 1.5 hour minimum drive from me to the closest junk yard, to boot.

20181103_120538.jpg
 
Exhaust actually goes through it right? GM used a stainless steel flex tube on some of thier EGRs maybe you can come up with a solution better then OEM. (means brazing) I know back in the 80s allot of people were blocking EGRs with home made tin plates.. some even made pinholes in them to allow some gasses into the head.
 
What about LMC truck? they might have the one you need. The catalog I have only lists one EGR tube for the 4.0L engine 93-94 but I'm not sure if it will fit the 96 4.0L. maybe someone on here knows.

Part# 50-1795, EGR tube - to EGR, Application 4.0L Ranger, 93-94, required (1), $79.95 USD.

EDIT: While this would be a temp patch you could always form a piece of sheet metal around the hole to the back side and braze it shut. this will get you back on the road but because of the rot it will eventually go again but give you time to find a good one to replace it.
 
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another source for flexible stainless steel are the little flexible gas lines they use on water heaters that you can get from the Home Center. either way you would still have to come up with a mechanical connection or brazed on plates. Stainless to steel usually needs silver bearing brazing wire and brazing flux. I could be wrong it's been a while..
 
Got one on the way from fordpartsgiant dot com. $41 shipped. ;)

I tried to clean the existing up and flux core her up, but she's rotted too much.
 
*Fixed*

I told my wife a month ago that it was an easy $50 fix that I was having trouble finding.

$41.16 was what it cost.

She runs like a top now. Idles a little high, 200+/-, but smooth as silk. The anti diesel screw doesn't lower the rpms, so I may have a smaller leak somewhere I'll have to dig for.

I have to diagnose the speedometer not working, replace one brake line, try to charge the AC, find one matching wheel and put new shoes on her, but she runs phenomenal for a $350 truck.
 

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