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Finally have to pull the trans.


Mine was a royal pain as well. I was finally able to get it by attaching a hose to the bleeder on the slave and using vacuum up top. It would not bleed doing it from under the vehicle. Mine was a TK5 so maybe a little different from yours though. It took me an entire afternoon/evening of trying.

Yeah, I've got the new line/cylinder prefilled kit hung and slave attached.... gravity filling right now. Everybody says that's the best way. Makes sense to me.
 
I always bench bleed the master cylinder and hose before I put it in the vehicle. IMO any other way is guaranteed to cause problems. I never bleed or pre-fill the slave before final installation - just hook up the hose when the trans is in, open the bleeder, let about 3 reservoirs full of fluid run through and it'll be good.

I would even try bench bleeding a prefilled master/hose before I install it. Maybe not necessary but I have trust issues with new parts that are supposed to work right out of the box.
 
I always bench bleed the master cylinder and hose before I put it in the vehicle. IMO any other way is guaranteed to cause problems. I never bleed or pre-fill the slave before final installation - just hook up the hose when the trans is in, open the bleeder, let about 3 reservoirs full of fluid run through and it'll be good.

I would even try bench bleeding a prefilled master/hose before I install it. Maybe not necessary but I have trust issues with new parts that are supposed to work right out of the box.

Yeah, I guess I'm doing both, before and after, for the slave. Line kit was prefilled, but I'll bleed the whole thing again. It's not hard, even by yourself. I've got it all in place, just have twist the master into the peddle cluster and install the pushrod. Clutch switch, etc.

Getting the line snaked in right is a slow process for me, but done. Now I'm in the AC for a while.
 
You're getting there. Nothing wrong with taking your time and getting it right. Answered your PM, but I'll be in and out today.
 
I'm not looking forward to laying on my head again to finish this part, but it'll be the last time.
 
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When I replaced the slave cylinder in the 2011, the work on the slave was more of a PITA to me then changing the master. Since not all connections between the master and the slave are the same, I bought a complete kit that was prefilled and bench bled. Removing the wheel well liner was a bit of a pain but the swap on the master cylinder wasn't bad over all. To be safe, I did gravity bleed it after everything was installed and connected. It could be the style of transmission that I have but the gravity bleeding wasn't a problem. But it won't solve a non-bench bled master cylinder issue.
 
Master cylinder and pushrod installed. It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be, but some of that is because I moved the power distribution box, and some of the tools I have. Getting the master twisted in correctly is a matter of getting it lined up the right way first, and having the room around it under the hood to twist it by hand....from the outside.

pushrod-on.jpg


The hardest part for me was getting the pushrod in and locked (above). I slipped it on to the peddle and used the peddle to lock the pushrod into the master cylinder. The difficult part was getting the pushrod ALL the way on to its locking point. Because of the large harness in the way, it was hard to get the pushrod off and then back on again. I got it on, but couldn't apply the force necessary to lock it in place.

Fortunately, I have these. I'd always wanted a pair, but only finally bought some when doing the engine/trans swap in my Integra. Had to have them. These are made by Crescent and when I purchased them, the only place I could find them (2 years ago) was in England. So I ordered them. I don't use them very often, but when you need them, you're really glad you've got'em.

pushrod-tools.jpg


Getting the boot in place was mostly done applying pressure from under the hood. There was a harness that runs around the side and down by the brake system. It has to be moved out of the way to push in the boot....might be different on other Rangers. Then finishing up setting the boot in from inside. I used these tools to do that.

boot-tools.jpg


All and all, this wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but I think what made the difference was my long needles nose pliers and moving the power distribution box.

I still have the clutch switch to put back, but the new version's "retainer" cap is much easier to deal with then the one that was on there. I had already put the other end of the hydraulic line in around the frame to where it goes. I did that first. I still have a line anchor to push back into the frame down there, but that's all.
 
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This morning I finished this, including anchoring the power distribution box back in place. The new clutch switch IS a bit easier, but I had trouble plugging it in so I put the one that was in there, back. I felt forcing it with the 24 year old connector was an unnecessary risk. However, the new one will remain in the glovebox just in case.
 
Posted twice?
 
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A few details before the final assembly. Clean the trans bolts...check one that might need replacing. Clean the trans electrical connectors. Clean the starter. Go buy anti-seize. ....and go over everything to see if I've forgotten anything (large o-ring that came with the slave). I've got shims to pound in towards the front of the trans to get an angle. I've got all the torque values printed out.....

I'm thinking about the two metal mounts that hold the trans harness...if I might mount one or both on the way up, into position. Not sure if that's a good idea or not.
 
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Use a paint pen and mark the bolts as you torque them. If you do a mark on the bolt and another beside it you can easily see if the bolt is backing out, not likely but peace of mind.
 
Use a paint pen and mark the bolts as you torque them. If you do a mark on the bolt and another beside it you can easily see if the bolt is backing out, not likely but peace of mind.

I used to paint a line on bolts as a looseness checker. Now I have to do it because I can't remember which bolts I have torqued, and which I haven't.
 
An inch and a quarter o-ring fell out during disassembly, and one comes with the new slave. I didn't see where it came from and can find NO info about where it goes. You guys know?

Thanks
 
Well, at least now it looks like progress. A couple more days and I'll be lifting the trans up there. It surprised me how much dirt was on the flywheel. I spent several swipes (10 or more) with paper towels and brake cleaner. It eventually stopped coming off. Might of been metal dust from when they turned it. The pressure plate, even though I got them at the same time, it was much cleaner.

flywheel-clutch.jpg
 
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I can't type on my smartphone....too well.
 
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