Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

Ha...well... as long as your O2 sensor threads in and tightens up snug, should be no problem. Rust and time will only make it tighter

Yeah, I'm a little scared of "snug", but I'll find out. There's always JB-Weld.

While I'm waiting on the o2 wire extension to come in the mail, I've got one last issue to consider...weigh the risks.

This is the cleanest spot or area on the whole transmission. I don't see any indication they're leaking. The trans does lose a bit of fluid, but I have to fill it very seldom.....cause I'm only driving 1000 miles a year maybe. I know there's motor oil all over the bottom on the trans, but very little on the top. If there's a leak, it's most likely coming from one of the end seals. There was oil inside the bell housing, but that could be from the engine (maybe thru the hole for the starter), or that input shaft seal. The clutch was still good. It was only the slave or hydraulic system that failed.

The truck is too low to get at these. I'd at the very least, have to raise the rear end up. They look easy to remove, but putting the center one back in might be difficult because there something in the way. Do they also need rtv or any sealer for the freeze plugs?

I'm inclined not to do them. I may have to pull it again in a couple years to do the end seals. At least I'll already know what I'm in to.

 

[Shran]

That's very likely where your leak is coming from. I always do freeze plugs with a bit of RTV on the outside. Some people have just glued the old plugs back in with RTV but I don't trust that sticking to old oily plugs.

 

[fastpakr]

As a counterpoint, if they look clean and dry from all angles, I'd leave them alone. Way too much hassle to go there in your case unless there's a known problem.

 

[Shran]

As a counterpoint, if they look clean and dry from all angles, I'd leave them alone. Way too much hassle to go there in your case unless there's a known problem.

Easy to fix now while he has the trans out, much harder with it in the truck later

 

[fastpakr]

Easy to fix now while he has the trans out, much harder with it in the truck later

You're right - I don't know what I was thinking. Mixing threads up maybe. For sure if the transmission is already out, now's the time.

 

[9723]

Do they need to be hammered in.

 

[Shran]

Freeze plugs? Yes. I just pick a socket that fits in the cup of the plug and carefully tap them in, they go in super easy.

 

[Paulos]

I know it's not an ideal solution, but if the trans is already in I would at least try to clean the area around each plug with a rag and solvent, and then smear a nice layer of RTV over the old plugs. Messy and unprofessional? Yes. But if you don't plan on taking the trans out again for a while, I would feel better about doing this than nothing at all.

Oil resistant RTV? High-temp? I think high temp RTV is oil resistant.

 

[9723]

I appreciate ALL input. The trans is still out so that I can add the O2 extenson wire before putting it all back together, but as suggested in the beginning, the Ranger is setting on top of 3 stacked 2 by lumber under each wheel. It's still so low I can barely move the trans around at all. Trying to get at those rear plugs puts me in between the fuel tank and muffler. A very difficult position....can't even turn the trans fully sideways due to the frame rails. Can't pick up the rear wheels 'cause my two reliable jacks are under the trans and engine.

So I'm trying to figure out what I might do to resolve this issue.

 

[9723]

I'll put the bell housing up against the forward cross-member and see what room that gives me.

....but look at the photo. Does it look like they're leaking?

 

[9723]

By moving the bell housing up against the forward cross-member, I was able to get my face 8" from them with a bright light and get a very good look at them. They are NOT leaking at all. The leak is coming from the top cover...or plate, whatever it's called. Somebody mentioned that somewhere in here.

... doesn't mean they won't, but not so far. Eventually, I'm going to have to put this truck up high enough to pull the trans completely out from under so I can fix the top plate...and probably the input shat seal. Not this time. It is time, to start putting it all back.

 

[9723]

Master cylinder (left arrow down behind everything)? I've got it half way out. It looks to me the only way to get it out is undo the mount (circled) of the power distribution box. The hydraulic line (white dashes) from the reservoir snakes around behind the mount... both underneath and further back over, the main harness (right arrow). The reservoir mounts between the starter solenoid (far right bottom) and that mount. The brake lines are almost in the way, but the biggest thing is the main harness and a couple spur harnesses that come off of it. When I undo that mount, I'll be able to pick up on all of it. I could cut the line, make a mess and get it out easier, but I've still got to put the new one in whole, so I might as well do it now and see how well it works. I do NOT like moving around 20+ year old harnesses. They can have problems as a result....no other choice. You can also see where the line may be getting bubbles in. Just Northeast of the circle by 1/8".....looks like the corner of the mount tore into it.

Anybody do it the same way, or another?
Thanks!

 

[9723]

Moving the power distribution box (three screws) worked well and it moved much easier than I'd expected. I found it's a must to pull the cylinder out underneath the hood latch cable. The line going down to the frame is already situated that way, and during installation ill need to take the reservoir around that cable first or it'll end up on the wrong side of the cable. Also the connector (at arrow) must be pulled from the fender. None of it was not very difficult, but make sure the pushrod end is aligned with the rectangular hole in the peddle cluster first.

 

[Shran]

Yeah... pulling the master and hose assembly out takes some time. First time I replaced a clutch in a Ranger I had trouble bleeding it and had to pull it and bench bleed that part three or four times. Was not fun.

 

[bilbo]

Mine was a royal pain as well. I was finally able to get it by attaching a hose to the bleeder on the slave and using vacuum up top. It would not bleed doing it from under the vehicle. Mine was a TK5 so maybe a little different from yours though. It took me an entire afternoon/evening of trying.