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fill plug on manual transmission


Jtjudd

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2023
Messages
9
City
Salt Lake City
Vehicle Year
2011
Transmission
Manual
Hey all - what is the fill plug on the manual transmission - it's on the opposite side of the fill and drain plugs
 
Welcome to TRS :)

You have a M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual trans in a 2011 Ranger(1988-2011)

Fill and drain plugs are both on drivers side
Both 15/16" heads
Do not loosen or remove any other smaller headed bolts on drivers or passenger side

M5R1 uses ATF not gear oil, Mercon V is spec
Holds 2.8quarts BONE DRY, so 2 quarts on refill

Looks like this with plugs removed: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAAec8/d-bf9SWSZpo/w735-h551/IMG_0459.JPG
 
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thank you. I did remove the smaller plug as I thought this was the fill plug, tried to put some ATF into it - but it wouldn't accept the fluid - it would just ooze out. Did I do damage to the tranny?
 
BTW - after draining the tranny - it took 2.5 quarts of ATF (Mercon 5). The old tranny fluid looked quite dirty and dark. I was surprised to not find any shavings on the drain plug
 
Not sure where or why but somehow I came up with
Pennzoil Automatic Transmission Fluid For use in older GM, Ford and other cars*
So how did I wind up with this?
 
Thanks JoshB and RonD. I now know not to crack open the smaller fill plug on the tranny - but like Dork I did it and even tried to put ATF in it. Major league mistake. However - If an ounce of ATF got in there - what is the potential damage to the tranny? What is the smaller fill plug for?
 
The small bolt that you should not have removed keeps the 5th/reverse shift fork rod in place. It should be sealed in place with a bit of RTV or it will leak.
 
I take the shifter off and pour it in through the top, much easier, also Pennzoil Syncromesh works better than ATF.
 
I take the shifter off and pour it in through the top, much easier, also Pennzoil Syncromesh works better than ATF.

How would removing the shifter be easier than removing and installing fill and drain plug? My ‘98 and ‘11 are/were no where even close to being easier that way.
 
Some folk like working laying down, some like workin sittin up
 
You had mentioned the bolt on the other side of the transmission, that's for the reverse idler gear shaft, you do NOT want to take that out as you likely won't get it back in...

As to your question, won't hurt anything as it's all in the same open cavity, there's just some things that aren't meant to be screwed with if you don't know what they are that is why it is clearly labeled Fill and Drain on the transmission case casting...
 
How would removing the shifter be easier than removing and installing fill and drain plug? My ‘98 and ‘11 are/were no where even close to being easier that way.
Because you can pour it right in, I fill all my manual transmissions that way.
 
The problem with that method is to do it requires pulling the shift boot, the lower shift boot then the 3 screws holding the seal on, in some instances that's difficult, on rigs like my '90 where the shift boot is held on by the rubber flex and gravity it's a non issue... I haven't put those 4 screws in in the last decade...
 
If you already have it open that is certainly the way to go. If it only needs topped up a bit use an old rear end oil jug for transmission, transfer case, and rear end. It will usually tilt right up and go right in, maybe sometimes needs an extra length of hose
 
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