FE Lifters in a Cologne

[Uncle Gump]

Interesting to note, I'm not entirely sure that the lifter adjustment write-up in the tech section is entirely accurate, now. Apparently the recommended procedure is to take up clearance, then adjust down 2mm.

This would be for a hydraulic lifter.

You would open the valve 2mm plus rocker ratio using that on a solid lifter. And most likely destroy stuff...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

So... which one do you have?

BV I believe. Can't find any references that spell out the differences. Not sure what they would be.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

This would be for a hydraulic lifter.

You would open the valve 2mm plus rocker ratio using that on a solid lifter. And most likely destroy stuff...

Correct haha. The book)/ tech page suggests to contact, then 1.5 turns. This is saying (I.may be misunderstanding) that you literally turn till you can't easily spin the pushrod, then go 1.5

 

[Uncle Gump]

You aren't misunderstanding... that is the method.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Anyone out there know what the difference is between these two styles of mechanical lifters?

I know the bottom one looks like a hydraulic, but Comp has it listed as a solid / mechanical. Wondering what the "waist" in the middle of the first one is for/does?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

(Bump?)

 

[Curious Hound]

(Bump?)

I see your bump and raise you 1 clueless.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've never seen a mechanical lifter you could disassemble... the bottom lifter sure looks to be a hydraulic.

The undercut "waist" on the top lifter seems to be more extreme then others I've seen... sure seems it would be less restrictive to oil flow through the lifter galley.

That's all I got PJ...

 

[19Walt93]

Most domestic solid lifters look like the bottom one, I suspect the top one has a cutout so some engineer could claim he saved 1/2 oz of metal per lifter. If you put solid lifter against a hydraulic cam you'll end up with extreme wear and metal particles in your oil, the lifter bases are shaped slightly different. Roller lifters reduce friction and parasitic drag and allow steeper ramps on the cam lobes. That means you can have a relatively short duration cam and still have the valves open further and longer for better power without hurting the low end. You also don't need high zinc oil.
The FE engines were introduced in 58 as a 332 and grew to 352,360,390,406,427, and 428. They were good engines until the 75-6 model years when the machining equipment was wearing out, we had problems like sand holes in the block leaking coolant internally and noises from sloppy tolerances. The cast iron intake manifold weighed about 95lbs and lifting one out while leaning over the fender kicked my butt in my 20's, I'd use a motor crane now.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I certainly haven't seen them all Walt... but of the solid lifters I have used... never seen one you could disassemble.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

There's also the anti pump up flavor of hydraulic lifter available. Never heard of them before, but until now I've never given lifters much thought.

They seem interesting:

"The aftermarket has developed some variations on the standard-issue hydraulic lifters. One of the first refinements was the introduction of anti-pump-up lifters. The concept is as simple as it is effective. In an anti-pump-up lifter, the light-duty retaining clip at the end of the hydraulic lifter's internal plunger travel is replaced with a heavier, more positive stop.

When used in conjunction with an adjustable valvetrain, an anti-pump-up lifter can be set so the internal plunger is at or near the top of its range of travel when the camshaft is on its base circle. When running, the anti-pump-up lifter is essentially adjusted so the piston is already pumped all the way up against the stop, eliminating the possibility of the plunger overextending. An adjustable valvetrain is, of course, required to utilize an anti-pump-up lifter as intended. Anti-pump-up lifters may also include changes to the lifter's valving or clearances to alter the bleed-down characteristics, although current theory holds that "stiffer" is better."

Solid Vs. Hydraulic Lifters - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Read on as we give you the rundown on the differences between solid cams and hydraulic lifters. For more information and details, stay tuned on Mopar Muscle Magazine

www.hotrod.com

 

[8thTon]

There's also the anti pump up flavor of hydraulic lifter available. Never heard of them before, but until now I've never given lifters much thought.

They seem interesting:

"The aftermarket has developed some variations on the standard-issue hydraulic lifters. One of the first refinements was the introduction of anti-pump-up lifters. The concept is as simple as it is effective. In an anti-pump-up lifter, the light-duty retaining clip at the end of the hydraulic lifter's internal plunger travel is replaced with a heavier, more positive stop.

When used in conjunction with an adjustable valvetrain, an anti-pump-up lifter can be set so the internal plunger is at or near the top of its range of travel when the camshaft is on its base circle. When running, the anti-pump-up lifter is essentially adjusted so the piston is already pumped all the way up against the stop, eliminating the possibility of the plunger overextending. An adjustable valvetrain is, of course, required to utilize an anti-pump-up lifter as intended. Anti-pump-up lifters may also include changes to the lifter's valving or clearances to alter the bleed-down characteristics, although current theory holds that "stiffer" is better."

Solid Vs. Hydraulic Lifters - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Read on as we give you the rundown on the differences between solid cams and hydraulic lifters. For more information and details, stay tuned on Mopar Muscle Magazine

www.hotrod.com

Then there are Rhoads lifters with controlled leak down to reduce lift/duration at lower rpm - always thought that was kind of clever but no idea how well they work.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Then there are Rhoads lifters with controlled leak down to reduce lift/duration at lower rpm - always thought that was kind of clever but no idea how well they work.

Saw those as well, but couldn't remember when I posted. No clue which would serve best.

 

[Paulos]

@ PetroleumJunkie412

I'm not sure if I linked to this in the past, but have you checked out this solid lifter conversion? Just the kind of mod I'd think you would experiment with . I've considered doing it myself if I ever do the free-floating rocker arm mod.

Fixing Ford's 2.9: The Solid Lifter Conversion

1988 Ford Ranger Stx 4x4 2.9l V6 5 speed I picked up this 1988 Ranger Stx 4x4 to use as a winter truck back in January of 2011 after ...

evilrobotarmy.blogspot.com

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

@ PetroleumJunkie412

I'm not sure if I linked to this in the past, but have you checked out this solid lifter conversion? Just the kind of mod I'd think you would experiment with . I've considered doing it myself if I ever do the free-floating rocker arm mod.

Fixing Ford's 2.9: The Solid Lifter Conversion

1988 Ford Ranger Stx 4x4 2.9l V6 5 speed I picked up this 1988 Ranger Stx 4x4 to use as a winter truck back in January of 2011 after ...

evilrobotarmy.blogspot.com

Saw that one a while back, but think im going to pursue an aftermarket solution.

Farmer ghosted me, so sent the cad files that I drew up for the rocker spacers to a bunch of machine shops. So far, cheapest one quoted me ＄360, which means not happening.

Glad I put all that work in ?