Fants truck

[dangerranger83]

I was about to ask how things were going but looks like you answered my question.

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[Fant]

Round 2. 96 f150 302 i redid

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[Fant]

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[Fant]

They all match now. No pics of them after paint

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[dangerranger83]

No love for the xfer case?

Shiny.

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[Fant]

So after breaking 3 intake bolts off in heads. I swapped heads off 94. After that everything went fairly smooth. I tore apart and redne this 96 engine in 2 days. All i dne was replace gaskets an seals. Fixed my leaky tcase while it was out. And opted to install a brace and redo drivers motor mount to slide motor back another inch for better fan clearance. Im still roughly two days out frm havin it running. Waiting on new hei distributor to cme in to accomodate the shaft legnth. Dnt wnt another blowed up motor. And ive got mechanical guages and a tach to add to my swap. Theyl be in tmrw. Il post more pocs as build cmes together. Any quest il help as mich as i can.

 

[Fant]

Hey man. I had to change both seals where yoke goes in. After 5 trips to parts house they finally got me what i needed. Its painted now and ready for action.

 

[dangerranger83]

My rear seal is holding up for nit being changed and so is my front but I have yet to use the front one.

I should have changed my input shaft seal when I had the chance but I was running out of time for my swap. One of those if I have to pull the trans for some reason, all seals are getting changed.

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[Fant]

I should have motor mount back frm machine shop tmrw for driver side. And il install it after work. Then stab tranny and tcase. Drivelines. Hook wires up. Radiator fan. Guages. Etc. hopefully by sun night il get to fire her up if my distributor cmes in

 

[Fant]

I understand that. Thats why i did it this time. Everything i didnt do last time or wanted to change after my first motor was in. Like tcase seals. And fan clearnce cuz it didnt slide back far enough on drivers side. I fixed this time.

 

[Fant]

James duff 4x4 mount modified

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[Fant]

U can see where old bolt shaft use to be centered. New bolt shaft is where it wides in notch in crossmember. U have to add a brace on crossmember to support pad to do this. I opted this approach to get more clearance on my fan. Now i have 3/4-1 in clearance between fead and electric fan motor. Im running f150 fead so its bigger. Careful when settingthe motor cuz u may need to shim the mount as well if oil pan hits crossmember. No biggy though

 

[Fant]

Doing this mount rhis way also got my tcase off my frame a little more on drivers side. Now that it had room to equally be able to slide back it gave me clearance at the back as well. Il post pics later of motor and trans and tcase clearance. It should be alive in nxt two days. If all go well frm here on out

 

[Fant]

Well got ranger going. Test drive went good. Made it to shop and buddy tweaked my timing and fixed draggin starter. I got a deal on 600 edelbrock carb. 150 bucks ready to bolt on. Ive always been a holly fan but hey a deal is a deal. Thats a expensive carb. If i decide i dnt like it il sell it. I still got to shim motor mount. Two reasons. One the oil pan is almost touching crossmember.(with the motor mount mod to slide engine back further).im running a 94 f150 engine oil pan. So sme of u wnt have this issue. The second is my setup to run my manual oil guage is actually sitting to close to steering box and giving me leaks. I think its do to clearance and has pressure on it frm the motor itself. When i shim mount that will fix both issues. So truck is parked til these issues are addressed. Other than that. Talk about power. It will burn rubber all through first gear and squal when i grab second before it jumps and takes off. It has superb power. This motor def turns 33x12.5 tires with ease.

 

[dangerranger83]

Mines the same way when it wants to burn tires from gear to gears. I too have to shim my engine up higher because it has settled over the years.

Also don't forget the pictures.

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