Extreme Cold Weather (E-FAN)

[ELCouz]

Hi,

I'm a new owner of a Ford Ranger 2010 V6 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Sport.

Never owned a ford ranger before.

We are currently experiencing a wave of extreme cold days in Canada (-35C/-32F) and my truck doesn't give a lot of heat.

I've noticed that the mechanical fan always run because the viscosity is so high (cold). Did the spin test (with engine off of course) and it spin with little bit of resistance but not that much. I would say clutch is okay.

Truck is almost new (35000km or 22k miles).

I don't think its the thermostat since radiator and hose are cold.

Put some cardboard in front of the radiator it helped but still the mechanical fan is able to blow cold air over the engine bay.

I've run a long distance tonight and i was never able to get to 90C/194F.

Maximum is 80C/176F while engine is revving (highway) and as soon as a let of the throttle (idle) I see the numbers/needle going down fast to stay around 68-70C/154F-158F.

Would switching to E-Fan help getting more heat inside?

I know stock configuration is the best but for cold winter i don't think is optimal engine temp!!


Also, when I start the truck I can let it idle for 30 mins temp never really raise until i decided to block the radiator air flow.

This mechanical fan is a b*tch in cold temp. Lot of CFMs but its not desired in cold weather.
Is the ranger built for texas temperature or what ?
Never had a car with this type of fan.

Btw, the truck is ok with temperature warmer -10C/14F, Engine temp goes to 90C/194F without any problems and plenty of heat for my feet and windows !


thank you very much!!!
Happy new year!

regards,
laurent

 

[martin]

I've had many different vehicles over the years, and when the temperature drops down to those figures, not one of them has had a heater that will handle it. Try running the heater fan at a lower speed and if you have a recycle setting try that. That's all I got. Happy new year.

 

[RonD]

Not sure if the 2010 has the preheater for the intake air, pulls air off the exhaust manifold, but if it does make sure it is pulling in that warmer air and not the cold air.

At this time(and temp) you could pull off the fan blade and see how it effects the engine operating temp.
That would tell you if an E-fan would help or not.

Warm weather temp seems low, t-stat is there to set minimum temp, 192degF for most Fords, but best operating temp is 210-230degF, best lubrication and MPG.

The t-stat is there to get engine up to 192degF ASAP and hold that minimum, but 192degF is not the desired operating temp, it should be higher.
192degF is when the t-stat starts to open, but it doesn't open all the way until 200degF(approx)
So you could have a faulty t-stat, opening a bit early.
You said the upper rad hose is cold after warm up, is that very cold or a little warm?

 

[wildbill23c]

Sounds more like the thermostat is either stuck open, or someone put a lower temperature one in, so its just plain not letting the truck warm up completely, so you are going to only get luke warm air through the heater.

 

[ELCouz]

You said the upper rad hose is cold after warm up, is that very cold or a little warm?

ICE Cold

At this time(and temp) you could pull off the fan blade and see how it effects the engine operating temp.

I've read somewhere that this involve a PITA procedure... is this the engine version that need an adapter to hold the fan... or its very easy?

Any procedure (walkthrough) for a 4.0L SOHC?

The t-stat is there to get engine up to 192degF ASAP and hold that minimum, but 192degF is not the desired operating temp, it should be higher.
192degF is when the t-stat starts to open, but it doesn't open all the way until 200degF(approx)

Do you have a motorcraft part for the high temp one # ?
I can only see this one RT1167 (88C/190F) stock.

Not sure if the 2010 has the preheater for the intake air, pulls air off the exhaust manifold, but if it does make sure it is pulling in that warmer air and not the cold air.

Possible, I see intake air temp always hotter than outside temp. (ex: outside temp sensor says -30 and intake temps says -25)


Anyone driven a ranger v6 4.0L sohc through very cold days?


I do have heat but after 1 hour highway trip i have to switch between feet, hands or window defrost heat many times. Forget about defrosting and feet at the same time... heat is too diluted.

 

[RonD]

I've read somewhere that this involve a PITA procedure... is this the engine version that need an adapter to hold the fan... or its very easy?

Any procedure (walkthrough) for a 4.0L SOHC?

I would block/cover the front of the rad before removing the fan, just to see what temp you get.

There is a tool set needed for all Ford fan clutches, most auto parts stores loan or rent them.
It consists of a large skinny box end wrench to hold pulley and a smaller skinny box end wrench to turn the nut on the clutch, just as a heads up the clutch threads can be reverse threads, look on the rad support for a label, it will tell you what threads are used, usually with or near the serpentine belt diagram.

4.0L SOHC tool set is:
Fan Clutch Pulley Holder T84T-6312-C and Fan Clutch Nut Wrench T84T-6312-D for the 4.0L

Can't see you needing to add anything since you are just removing the blades not the clutch.
Although you do need to remove the clutch to remove the blade.

On my '94 4.0l OHV you wouldn't need to reinstall the clutch it is not used to hold the water pump pulley.
Not sure on the SOHC but fan blade, for sure wouldn't be needed.

1. remove air plenum(tube between air cleaner and intake

2. using tool set loosen fan clutch nut(check for direction for loosening), don't remove it all the way yet.

3. remove two bolts holding the top of the fan shroud, remove overflow hose if it is attached to shroud, keep it's end high or overflow tank will drain out via that hose.

4. lift fan shroud from lower clips

5. loosen clutch nut until it is free

6. lift shroud and clutch assembly out

7a. if water pump pulley is held in place by 4 bolts, then you are done, you can reinstall fan shroud if needed for overflow hose, or just hookup overflow hose.

7b. if clutch is used to hold water pump pulley then remove 4 bolts that hold fan blade to clutch and remove blade.

8. reinstall clutch on water pump, shroud is not needed unless for overflow hose support.


I did a search for complaints about the 4.0l SOHC in cold and very cold weather, didn't find any, the Ford Lima engines(2.xl, 4cyl) has hundreds of complaints, lol, so I think you may have a specific problem.

What is the coolant mix you are using?
50/50, coolant/distilled water
100/0, all coolant is bad


Intake air pre-heating was usually only done with carbs, it helped keep the fuel vapor in suspension on cold days.
Fuel injection "shouldn't" need that since fuel is sprayed near the intake valves.


It is puzzling the a V6 can not generate enough heat, it is going to be running rich because of the air density, but even that wouldn't account for the low temp

 

[ELCouz]

Thanks for all your replies!

Thank you for the procedure, i'll try it when temp got less coldy...few mins and my hands are red lol!!

What is the coolant mix you are using?

50/50 i think. I still have the motorcraft coolant... truck is new lol.

I don't think motorcraft make 40/60 water/coolant blends.

Do you have the part number for the thermostat which open at higher temps?

Do motorcraft sells one or its all aftermarket?

thank you!

I still think that a fan blowing cold air in engine bay must not help a lot.

 

[rangerbum]

I've got an E- Fan in my 97 for exactly this reason. I haven't even used it since early September. My truck does warm up but it takes a while. I've found that the best way to get mine warmed up is 5th gear at about 50-55 mph.

Its slightly bogged down so there is load on the engine, and its not turning the water pump fast like higher rpms do.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, the system just isn't meant to take temps like that. Try blocking the rad before doing anything else.

 

[ELCouz]

Regarding the e-fan, i've read a lot on this subject.

Just to be sure, the taurus fan is my best bet with a 4.0l sohc?

I can't find a direct bolt on solution on google.

Fact is with the taurus fan i don't want a used one in my kinda new truck.

It seems that they are discontinued, cannot buy new OEM ones.

Any advices?

Thank you very much!
laurent

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Engines just don't build heat very fast when they are idling, although if you let them warm up idling they do heat up much faster once you start doing something vs taking off from a cold start.

I have noticed my clutch fan running too, for us it has also been pretty stinking cold too (it was 0*F when I started my truck this morning)

I let it run for 15 minutes while I did my morning routine, temp was still pegged out cold. I drove half a mile and the needle was in the middle of its range and I had heat. From a cold start on a 20* day it would take about 10 miles to get any kind of heat.

 

[dangerranger83]

If it's that cold and not getting heat, I do the poor man solution and put a piece of card board in front of the rad. I had a 2.3 and 2.8 in my truck and neither produced good heat in the cold unless I blocked the rad somewhat.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[pjtoledo]

merely driving at 25-30 mph moves more air than the mechanical fan can. plus the actual engine has lots of cooling ability at these frigid temps.
the cabin heater has enough capacity to maintain proper engine temps, the t-stat stays closed and coolant cycles thru the heater making it the defacto radiator.
Cardboard works wonders, I punch a few 1" holes in it so at least some air gets thru.
And yes, at these temps you should wear good boots when driving, 'cause it ain't gonna get very warm.

I used to drive a 82 VW diesel, in the winter it didn't even need a radiator.

Perry

 

[ELCouz]

The thermostat is failing it was intermittent (the heat).

Now got the P0128 coolant code. First time i see a car/truck throw a check engine on a bad thermostat! (it's good)

Waiting for my parts to arrive!

Thank you everyone!

I will still switch to e-fan this summer.