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Explorer won't start! HELP!


Muhkanik

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Messages
6
Transmission
Automatic
My sister in law recently purchased a 98 Explorer sport (4.0, 5 speed). She drove it to school Friday and when she tried to leave it wouldn't start.
I pulled the battery and starter, they checked good and replaced the clutch switch. Still can't get it to turn over with the key.
The "THEFT" light blinks when the key is out....put the key in, turn it, light goes solid for a few seconds, goes out. I'm assuming this is normal operation for the theft system.
I can start it by turning the key on and jumping the poles on the starter (that's how I got it back to her house) but it just won't start with the key.
Any ideas?
 
Checked the solenoid when I took the starter and battery to Auto Zone to have them tested. Checked all of the fuses (there's no owners manual, so I had no idea which fuse went to what, in the dash or under the hood) and they all looked good.
 
my best guess would be the starter relay. it should be on the firewall near the clutch master cylinder. do you hear any noise at all when you turn the key?
 
I had to replace the starter relay on my '91 Navajo - it had the same symptoms. My generation has it on the passenger side in front of the fuse box.
 
I traced the battery wire all the way to the starter....I didn't see a relay.
The wires come off the battery to a 175 amp fuse link then down to the starter.
I hear a faint 'click' from under the dash, but other than that....nothing.
 
the relay sends a signal voltage to the solenoid, thats the little wire on the solenoid. the relay should look something like this

siss598t.jpg
 
There is no relay that looks like that on this truck. Could it be one if the cube relays in the power distribution box under the hood?
 
pull it, if it rattles around its certainly dead. if it doesn't rattle make sure its getting power, getting signal, and has a ground for the signal, then test continuity between the remaining lead and the switch wire on the solenoid. if that all checks out the relay is bad.
 
So I checked out relay #6, no rattles and looked good on the outside. Checked power and it was good at the socket. Opened up the relay case and the contacts were fried to a crisp. Surprisingly enough, Advance Auto had replacements for $12. Starts like a dream, now.
 
Good to hear!
 
Surprisingly enough, Advance Auto had replacements for $12. Starts like a dream, now.

Not really that surprising. That's a pretty standard relay, built by GE for most parts manufacturers. I bet I can walk up to literally any vehicle made between 1992 and 2005 and find that exact relay on it somewhere.
 

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