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Couple more rust questions...


rusty ol ranger

2.9 Mafia-Don
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
13,899
City
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Ill keep these simple unlike the rear sill debacle...

1- My drivers side door post is rotted out, just the bottom corner where they always do. I seen bronco graveyard has patches for these on the big broncos...you think it would be close enough to make work? Its only 25bucks so gambles are ok.

2- My body perch under the drivers floorpan is...sad. When i drug rusty #1 from the field i noticed those are about new looking yet, they look a bit different then the broncos do...but you think if i cut it out at somepoint it could be welded in to replace the broncos?

Besides a few iffy sections in the rear seat area thats about all thats left to make it pretty damn solid.
 
i just use sheet metal and whizzer wheel or plas or whatever is handy....

dont take much. 110 with fluxcore is cheeeeep at the horrible fright
 
i just use sheet metal and whizzer wheel or plas or whatever is handy....

dont take much. 110 with fluxcore is cheeeeep at the horrible fright
I got a 110 fluxcore lol.

Just wondering how to form it basically especially for the door post
 
make it. cut up cardboard templates, and start hacking and welding.
 
its easier then you think.

its harder hacking it apart. that is where the plasma is handy.
 
There's a guy on YouTube who has a bunch of videos about making patch panels with simple tools... And some videos about how to make the simple tools. I've picked up several great tips and tricks from him, and as a bonus you get to listen to his Newfie accent. 😀 Here's one as a starting point:

Edit: maybe even better link:

 
shit i never thought about that.

I got 0experience in this area so im wanting to learn.
When a lot of us say we did some CAD work… it’s usually Cardboard Aided Design… :icon_rofl:
 
Fitzee is awesome.
 
just remember Dustin.its just metal. if you screw it up just keep trying.


get some old fenders or car hoods from cheap to free...i cut sides out of vans for stock as well. sheet metal is expensive to buy at tractor hut or box stores.

just hack it up and keep working with it till ya get comfortable and then make your repairs.

i dont think there is anything on an rbv you cant rework with the available advice and teachings of Fitzee.
 
just remember Dustin.its just metal. if you screw it up just keep trying.


get some old fenders or car hoods from cheap to free...i cut sides out of vans for stock as well. sheet metal is expensive to buy at tractor hut or box stores.

just hack it up and keep working with it till ya get comfortable and then make your repairs.

i dont think there is anything on an rbv you cant rework with the available advice and teachings of Fitzee.
In gonna go to the old house tomorrow...i got a few scrap washers and dryers and shit like that. Im gonna bring one up to the barn and cut some stuff apart and grind the paint off and see what i can learn off it. Figure that metal is basically body panel lol.

That is what i worry about...not so much screwing up the patch piece but screwing up the vehicle worse.

Ive kinda been wanting to learn it for a long time just always found an excuse not to...but im going to start...its a skill i need.

Ill post pics for critique.
 
dryer and appliance metal and the coating compositions on it is not ideal.

read about phosgene gas and galvanized coatings ect.... having filters and respirators along with normal shielding helmets and gloves is a thing to take some time to learn about working with old junk.
 
dryer and appliance metal and the coating compositions on it is not ideal.

read about phosgene gas and galvanized coatings ect.... having filters and respirators along with normal shielding helmets and gloves is a thing to take some time to learn about working with old junk.
Noted.

Im sure i got other better suited shit laying around then
 
Yeah, definitely have to be careful with welding. Really you should try not to breath any welding fumes but short of wearing a respirator all the time, it happens. Most of my welding is done outside and I try not to blast myself with fumes. I’m also alert to the things like galvanized, zinc, and Phosgene gas. I’ll use brake cleaner to spray off parts sometimes but I let it dry really good and always use the non-chlorinated stuff. Lately I’ve been experimenting with using denatured alcohol for wiping stuff down.

Grease and oil presence will contribute to the splatter problem when welding. Any contaminants will cause excessive popping. Flux core wire splatters more than gas shielded to begin with. The cleaner you get where you’re welding, the better. They say arc welding with 6011 rod will weld through a cow pie… but that doesn’t mean that you should weld like that.

The beauty of metal is that if you burn through or screw something up, you just grind and weld to fix it. Cut a piece too short? Just weld some more back onto it. Way easier than working with wood.
 

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