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Explorer 8.8 axle swap drive shaft issues! Beware!


Axle_tek

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2014
Messages
15
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
Explorer 8.8 axle swap drive shaft issues! Beware! Help!

I installed a 8.8 out of a explorer in my 95 std. Cab 3.0l manual. The two piece drive shaft (double cardan style) bolted right up and work fine for a while until....it took out my t-case. Upon further inspection it is too long and was binding during hard throttle situations it took two years but it won the battle.
My angles are good it just a tad too long. Now I need a new t-case anyone have a manual 1354 laying around?
 
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I know a guy here in Memphis that has one he may sell...
 
After doing some research on TRS. The Pinion length (axle centerline to u-joint centerline) is the same between the two axles (ranger 7.5 to explorer 8.8) so what gives? If I roll the truck in gear causing the drive shaft flange to rotate up and down I bottom out the slip joint on the drive shaft fairly easily. The t-case Flange is lose and I must have damaged the crush sleeve I believe because the pinion yoke is loose and makes a clunk noise?
 
The pinion of the 8.8" is somewhat lower which changes the geometry when viewed from the side.

The pinion being mounted lower results in more linear thrust (forward along the driveshaft) during "Axle Wrap" situations.


Technically your driveshaft is a "One Piece" driveshaft because in terms of this discussion the slip yoke does not count.

What counts is lengths of tubing separated by U-joints an (example is a 1997 or earlier
Supercab)
 
Hmm. I don't have the money to have a drive shaft shortened or made any ideas?
 
Walk to work?

Costs about $30 to get a driveshaft shortened around here.
 
It's about a 100 bucks here. They charge 20 to sand blast it, 30 to shorten it and 50 to balance it. It's crazy
 
I was always told that if you take less than 6 inches out of a shaft it wouldn't need rebalanced. I have done it myself but it is time consuming without a lathe to cut the weld down
 
I find that kind of bogus as there are usually weights on both ends of the shaft...

I ran an explorer 8.8 in my 97 3.0L reg cab short bed for 2 years and it never gave my any issue.
 
Ok still no answer. I Also have a 8.8 axle in my other ranger and never had bottoming issues. That is why I posted this question Sasquatch_Ryda. How much slip yoke should be exposed? (Or distance between u joints in a stock ranger) I have nothing to go off of at this point (my other ranger is two wheel drive)
 
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I've had my 8.8 in my '97 for a hair over 2 years now. Never had an issue?

Did you re-use your stock shaft or get one from another similar body type Ranger? Has the shaft been replaced? In 1998 (I think), the wheelbase and cab got stretched juuuust a bit, around 3".

Some rotational play in the pinion is fine, if it moves in/out or up/down, THAT is a problem.

If you completely collapse the driveshaft how much space is there between the driveshaft flange and the t-case flange?
 
I've had my 8.8 in my '97 for a hair over 2 years now. Never had an issue?

Did you re-use your stock shaft or get one from another similar body type Ranger? Has the shaft been replaced? In 1998 (I think), the wheelbase and cab got stretched juuuust a bit, around 3".

Some rotational play in the pinion is fine, if it moves in/out or up/down, THAT is a problem.

If you completely collapse the driveshaft how much space is there between the driveshaft flange and the t-case flange?

maybe a 1/16" and that's forcing it into the t-case and squishing the boot.
 
yeahh... that ain't nearly enough alright.

Long bed or Short bed? (I breezed through your previous posts and didn't see it) I have a short bed Reg Cab 97 4x4 parts Ranger that I could measure the shaft on. BUT it's at my parents house still behind the shed, and it's probably going to be closer to the end of October before I'm making a trip there :/

Did you buy the truck used? I'm seriously suspecting that this got a shaft from one of the newer, 3" longer, Rangers at some point somehow.
 

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