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Explorer axle swap questions


skyhighsami

Active Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2024
Messages
32
City
Montgomery
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
Sorry I have a ton of Dr appointments and I won't have time to go through the threads but I found a 4.10 LSD disc brake 8.8 from an Explorer that I'm picking up this afternoon. What all will I need to get to make the brakes, E brake, and leaf springs plates? I know the Ranger has shocks in front of and behind the axle. Will I retain that since my plan is a 5"-6" drop all the way around? Sorry I just wanted to make sure because I am going to PaP after my 2 Dr appointments. Thanks guys
 
The shock location changes and connects to the spring plates. I can't remember if the Explorer has both behind the axle or both in front.

You will need Explorer plates because of the shock mounts.

Someone who has done the swap will have to answer on the E-brake.

As long as the existing brake lines are still on the axle, you should be able to just hook it up to the splitter block on the axle with your existing brake hose. The master cylinder you have will work, while not optimal, but people have been running the stock master cylinder with rear discs for years.
 
You will need the complete axle with brakes assembly. Use the Explorer rear brake hoses and hard lines, but the hose with the splitter will attach to the Ranger bracket on the frame. Use the Explorer e-brake cables from the axle to the intermediate cable. It will hook with the Explorer cable splitter to the Ranger intermediate cable.

I went with the Explorer setup using the Explorer spring plates which locate both shocks behind the rear axle. I was able with the bed off to tweak my top frame rail a little to match the drivers side and flip my passenger side upper shock mount to behind the axle on the Ranger with no cutting/welding/fab. It’s not perfectly in alignment with the drivers side upper mount but it’s pretty close and just required drilling some holes. I used the Explorer traction bars and sway bar.

The traction bar mounts on the axle I had to cut free and re-weld in between the U-bolts on the rear axle to get things in alignment for the Ranger frame. Despite building custom leaf packs, it put me into frame notch territory. I ended up adding 2” lift shackles and it’s still close to frame notch territory. The leaf spring pads I had to cut free and rotate the axle to get the pinion angle correct, then weld them back on. You may also have to shorten your rear driveshaft.
 
My plan is to do the ATS Brembo calipers and Cobra rotors so I will probably need the Super Duty master cylinder then. For suspension DJM UCA and LCA and 3" coil springs, the 8.8 with the flip kit. Prerunner 3" front and rear flares with some 20x10.5 22mm offset wheels at all four corners and 315/35/20. If my measurements are right with the FiberwerX I might need a little spacer but not much and I should end up with a .75-1" fenderwell gap since the Prerunner fenders have a 2.5" raised opening. One of the guys at Factory Five kit cars took their Fors F150 prerunner kit and lowered it and while there are some things I would change it does look really really good.
 

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