EXPERTS PLEASE HELP .. 1990 B2 2.9 This is a desperation case.

[MajorKlozeoff]

1990 Bronco II xlt 90k
Guys I need help before I grenade this B2.
Had an issue with water pump found cross threaded bolts leaking. Bought new timing ccover. Installed and put together.
Ran great before I started working on it that same day.
went to start. dragged a little like rrrrarrr raarrr then cranked no start.


compression 106 +-lbs all 6 cyl
Injector pulse on all injectors
Fuel pressure more than adequate.
Won't start with starting fluid. Not even a stumble.
New i
New TPS
NEW FUEL PRESS REG
NEW MAP
New motorcraft. Distributor with Ignition module.
Cap rotor plugs wires
Has Spark
Has compression
Has fuel
Tested injector I pulse
Will not start with starting fluid.
WHAT THE F?
Weak spark maybe?
This is blowing my mind .
Help help help please

 

[rusty ol ranger]

106psi compression is a bit on the weak side. I *think* only 90 is required to run but dont quote me...most even well worn 2.9's will muster 120ish psi.

Dump a teaspoon or so of oil down each cylinder and retry the compression test, see if it comes up.

Besides that, pull a plug or two and crank it, look for a good sharp blue spark at the plugs. Yellow is weak.

When you put the distributor in did you get it in the correct position?

The fact it wont fire even on ether really suggests its a spark issue or possibly compression.

 

[JoshT]

How much of that stuff changed since last successful start, or was removed and reinstalled during timing cover change?

Battery and cable condition? Are all of your grounds reconnected and clean? IIRC theres one that goes to a timing cover bolt.

 

[kunar]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and properly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

Yes!!!!!!!!! The crank pulley was removed and WAS probably not a full on guarantee that it's correct that was the part that I was not a part of.

How much of that stuff changed since last successful start, or was removed and reinstalled during timing cover change?

Battery and cable condition? Are all of your grounds reconnected and clean? IIRC theres one that goes to a timing cover bolt.

IIRC

 

[rusty ol ranger]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and properly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

Good catch

 

[JoshT]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and properly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

I've never taken a 2.9L apart. My 2.8L and 4.0L both had the timing gear/sprocket keyed to the crankshaft with a woodruff key. Was the 2.9L not built this way? That was a pretty dumb move.

IIRC

If you were asking, that stands for "If I Recall Correctly".

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and lproperly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

106psi compression is a bit on the weak side. I *think* only 90 is required to run but dont quote me...most even well worn 2.9's will muster 120ish psi.

Dump a teaspoon or so of oil down each cylinder and retry the compression test, see if it comes up.

Besides that, pull a plug or two and crank it, look for a good sharp blue spark at the plugs. Yellow is weak.

When you put the distributor in did you get it in the correct position?

The fact it wont fire even on ether really suggests its a spark issue or possibly compression.

Now this might sound like a stupid question, but what is the difference between having the pulley in a wrong position when it doesn't have any type of sensor or pick up?

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

If I verify timing how does the pulley affect the rest? Im getting ready to pull the pulley but I guess I'm not comprehending how that would affect it if the timing seems on.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If I verify timing how does the pulley affect the rest? Im getting ready to pull the pulley but I guess I'm not comprehending how that would affect it if the timing seems on.

It would affect how the cam is timed to the crank. So the valve timing will be off from where it should be at top dead center.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and lproperly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

106psi compression is a bit on the weak side. I *think* only 90 is required to run but dont quote me...most even well worn 2.9's will muster 120ish psi.

Dump a teaspoon or so of oil down each cylinder and retry the compression test, see if it comes up.

Besides that, pull a plug or two and crank it, look for a good sharp blue spark at the plugs. Yellow is weak.

When you put the distributor in did you get it in the correct position?

The fact it wont fire even on ether really suggests its a spark issue or possibly compression.

Now this might sound like a stupid question, but what is the difference between having the pulley in a wrong position when it doesn't have any type of sensor or pick up?

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[MajorKlozeoff]

It would affect how the cam is timed to the crank. So the valve timing will be off from where it should be at top dead center.

So I checked the crank pulley at 10 degrees before top dead center
#1 piston at TDC the rotor was pointing at #1

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

So I checked the crank pulley at 10 degrees before top dead center
#1 piston at TDC the rotor was pointing at #1

Sounds right.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and properly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

You had the front timing cover off, which means you had the crank pulley off? I'd bet that the crank pulley didn't go back on right. The crank timing gear has just a tiny little tab that fits in a slot in the pulley and will shear off if the pulley isnt lined up and properly torqued. That explains the low-ish compression, too. I'd remove that pulley and double check, that's where i'd put my money.

 

[MajorKlozeoff]

So this little bugger here behind the timing cover has to line up with the same " keyway" or whatever on the HB ?
Be cause I never removed the timing gears