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Exhaust Kit


For that wire, do you have an auto tcase? I know mine was hanging down until I ziptied it up to the frame until I swapped a 1354M and found that it plugged right in and worked the 4x4 light that never worked previously on the dash.

No electronic T-Case, its all manual, manual t-case manual hubs. The 4x4 light comes on when the t-case is engaged so I haven't the slightest clue on those wires apparently they aren't important enough to worry about because the truck runs with them dangling like that LOL.

Looks like you need a Y-pipe too. Looks like yours has a hole in it.

Yeah the Y-Pipe back is a mess for sure. I think it was welded on by the PO no shop involved or at least I wouldn't think so since the Cat was removed. As I understand a shop couldn't lawfully remove the Cat like this, am I correct on that?
 
The wires look like the speed sensor plug, which would only have been used if the vehicle had cruise up to 87.

And no, a shop cannot lawfully remove a cat and could be subject to large fines if caught.
 
Ok, thanks, I think I'm finding some nightmarish issues as in when I got the bronco 2 there was a spare carburetor in the back along with another exhaust pipe/muffler. After looking closely at the carburetor and now finding evidence of moisture in the engine oil I think this vehicle was under water at some point or was driven offroad and took in a bunch of water the old carburetor valve body is rusted closed on the bottom.

As far as the engine now it runs very well but I'm still finding moisture in the oil. What do I need to do to fix that?

Going to the exhaust shop for a quote after the holidays to get this thing put back together in the exhaust world at least.
 
Ok, thanks, I think I'm finding some nightmarish issues as in when I got the bronco 2 there was a spare carburetor in the back along with another exhaust pipe/muffler. After looking closely at the carburetor and now finding evidence of moisture in the engine oil I think this vehicle was under water at some point or was driven offroad and took in a bunch of water the old carburetor valve body is rusted closed on the bottom.

As far as the engine now it runs very well but I'm still finding moisture in the oil. What do I need to do to fix that?

Going to the exhaust shop for a quote after the holidays to get this thing put back together in the exhaust world at least.
 
You have changed the oil?? If so, you just need to run it, the moisture left will cook out quickly. If you are still having a problem, then the moisture problem is ongoing and not from an isolated time past.
 
I haven't changed the oil since I got it a month ago. It showed no signs of this problem in August when I initially test drove the vehicle. Maybe it was because of the summer weather. I filled up the coolant last week and it is still at the same level as it was a week ago, and I drove it 70 miles round trip the other day. maybe I'll try changing the oil again and see if that helps, just puzzles me as to what's going on. My initial thought was I had a blown head gasket but if that was the case I would think I'd have performance problems as well.

Definitely going to have the exhaust system repaired ASAP might have to postpone it until I can get the moisture problem fixed though.
 
Moisture can build up in an engine normally. Some engine designs more than others. Where are you seeing the moisture? On the cap? dip stick? might just be normal condensation. Is the PCV system working correctly?
 
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I'm seeing the moisture on the PCV valve, oil cap, and the dip stick. I'm not sure if the PCV valve even works planning on replacing some parts as soon as I get paid, then doing an oil/filter change as well along with the transmission, transfer case, and the front and rear differentials.
 

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