Engine Rotates But Will Not Start

[jd6gun]

This is a 1990, 2wd, manual, regular cab, 2.3 EFI, ac(removed years ago). Truck was stored 4.5 years. Filled it with gas installed a new battery and drove it for the last 7 months cross country around 8000 miles-no engine problems. Recently died at a traffic light. Several failed starting attempts led to parking lot trouble shooting. Tried to read codes, but the test connector wires are in poor condition and cannot get codes. Checked the fuel relay fuse in the power distribution box-it is good. Checked the inertia switch-not tripped. The fuel gauge has been erratic since brought out of storage, so I suspected the pump. Changed that out. No joy. Checked the old pump out of the tank-it worked. An assistant helped me check for spark. He saw no spark. Tested the Ignition Module-it is good. Have been told the Crank Position Sensor could be at fault as well as the Fuel Pump Relay since it is in the ignition circuit. The Crank Postion Sensor is going to need more than my little travel tool kit in a parking lot to replace. I purchased a Fuel Pump Relay, but cannot find it under the hood or in the Haynes book. For some reason, I also suspect the oil pressure sending unit. I have not researched this as far as the ignition circuit, and I think the presence of the inertia switch may negate the idea of low oil pressure(presumably being due to an accident) shuts down the pump and the ignition. But, if the part is cheap and easy to replace, mine is twenty years old so why not?. Is there anything I am overlooking other than an open circuit due to broken wires which is next after a few quick cheap part changes? QUESTION: Where is the Fuel Pump Relay on this vehicle?

 

[scotts90ranger]

First, the fuel pump relay is under the power distribution box I believe (I've never seen mine either, it just works)

Second, if a 2.3 truck dies suddenly for no apparent reason, 99% of the time it is a broken timing belt. If it isn't that, check for spark (pull a passenger side plug wire, put a spare plug on the end and crank it over and watch for spark). Even if the timing belt broke, as long as it didn't break the crank sensor it will still have spark on an '89.

Truthfully, a crank sensor is dead simple to change, all you need is a 10mm wrench to take the crank serpentine pulley off (no need to loosen the belt) and I think a 5.5mm socket for the two bolts, along with a needle tool to take the pins out of the connector so you can pull the wires from behind the timing cover (some sensors just come with a pigtail, so some high quality butt connectors would be faster), to line up the sensor on the vanes visually centering is fine, there's a spot where you can see the two vanes in the sensor at the same time.

 

[jd6gun]

Fuel Pump Relay Under PDB

Thanks for the reply. I looked at the compartment under the power dist. box and tried to get under it-resulting in breaking a tab. Yay me. The plastic parts are quite fragile on this old machine. There is a metal hold down tab on the pdb that seems to allow it to be opened to gain access to whatever is below the fuses, but I will probably just unbolt the entire thing from the fender apron to avoid prying on the brittle plastic again. I have had a timing belt break on the road and this situation is quite different. The crankshaft is rotating, but there is no combustion. Timing belt broken-no crank rotation. I am working on this rig in a hotel parking lot, not my garage at home. I really hope it is not the crank position sensor. Any other suggestions/ideas are always welcome. On the fly wrenching is stimulating, but frustrating as well.

Just dug into the relay bundle under the pdb. No labels, but there were three relays, two were four pronged and one was five pronged-matching the relay from the parts store. Changed out and still no joy. Now a huge storm is coming, just like last weekend. Frustrating 10 - Stimulating 1.

 

[modelageek]

This is a 1990, 2wd, manual, regular cab, 2.3 EFI, ac(removed years ago). Truck was stored 4.5 years. Filled it with gas installed a new battery and drove it for the last 7 months cross country around 8000 miles-no engine problems. Recently died at a traffic light. Several failed starting attempts led to parking lot trouble shooting. Tried to read codes, but the test connector wires are in poor condition and cannot get codes. Checked the fuel relay fuse in the power distribution box-it is good. Checked the inertia switch-not tripped. The fuel gauge has been erratic since brought out of storage, so I suspected the pump. Changed that out. No joy. Checked the old pump out of the tank-it worked. An assistant helped me check for spark. He saw no spark. Tested the Ignition Module-it is good. Have been told the Crank Position Sensor could be at fault as well as the Fuel Pump Relay since it is in the ignition circuit. The Crank Postion Sensor is going to need more than my little travel tool kit in a parking lot to replace. I purchased a Fuel Pump Relay, but cannot find it under the hood or in the Haynes book. For some reason, I also suspect the oil pressure sending unit. I have not researched this as far as the ignition circuit, and I think the presence of the inertia switch may negate the idea of low oil pressure(presumably being due to an accident) shuts down the pump and the ignition. But, if the part is cheap and easy to replace, mine is twenty years old so why not?. Is there anything I am overlooking other than an open circuit due to broken wires which is next after a few quick cheap part changes? QUESTION: Where is the Fuel Pump Relay on this vehicle?

I agree with the him^^^^^^^^^ the timing belt is often the cause of a instantly dead truck.......but I also think you should have spark...

.wow.......you dropped a gas tank or removed the bed and swapped out a fuel pump in a parking lot with travel tools.........that is awesome!!!!

you should be able to tell if the fuel pump relay is working just by listening for the pump or holding in the shrader valve

the ICM can test out fine and still be bad.......also all the screws need to be put in the ICM for it to work. They are ground screws.

I think you also have something else in the ignition system that fails but I can't recall the name.......TCI or something.........the tech library has a section on it.

 

[modelageek]

The crankshaft is rotating, but there is no combustion. Timing belt broken-no crank rotation. I am working on this rig in a hotel parking lot, not my garage at home. .

what does that mean^^^^^^^...the crank turns when the starter is rotated!

is your timing belt broke? you can pull the cover back and see it with out unbolting anything!

 

[jd6gun]

Modelageek-My bad about the crank not rotating. I guess its the cam. When my timing belt broke years ago and I called the Ford dealership, I described that the engine just whirred. They instantly knew it was the timing belt as there was no compression. Valves stuck open. That was many years ago. Yes I dropped the tank, truck on its tires, five gallons still in the tank. It sucked really really bad. I used the little floor jack I borrowed from a work mate to lower the tank and then used it to jack the truck up to slide the tank out. Believe me it sucked. Driveshaft is still in the bed. I may need to leave it off to tow the truck home with a uhaul and car dolly. Any open circuit in the ignition or fuel system seems to be able to shut down the pump at this point. So its chasing them all-easiest and cheapest to hardest and most expensive. The kv/ignition module tester compensates as needed for the type of module being tested. The operator tells the tester what module(by code) is being tested and the tester does its thing. The 1990 Ford 2.3 EFI Ignition Module must be disconnected and removed from the vehicle. I really hope the ignition module cannot test good and be bad. Like running a relay race with no baton. How the hell do I win? You may be referring to TFI-Thick Film Integrated which off the top of my head may be the coil packs. I haven't delved into all the terminology and abbreviations. Definitely not the timing belt broken. Thanks all and I am listening and using the info. Everything is appreciated.

 

[scotts90ranger]

there are only 3 components of the ignition system on an '89 2.3, module, coil packs, and crank sensor.

Do you have spark or fuel pressure? You should be able to hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on, if you don't there's probably something wrong. I'll assume you've checked all of the fuses both under the dash and under the hood?

 

[jd6gun]

Yeah scotts90, I checked all fuses. My next step is the crank position sensor, and while I am at it the coil packs. No I do not have spark or fuel pressure.

 

[modelageek]

If you have neither fuel or spark it sounds like the ecu fuse or relay or maybe the ignition switch.

 

[jd6gun]

If it is the ecu I am screwed. I am not going to pursue the fix in this jersey hotel parking lot any more in depth after the couple hundred bucks for the sensor and coil packs. If it gets any deeper, the truck is getting towed home and the entire electrical is getting replaced in my real garage. Chasing parts with no codes is really getting me down. You may be right about the ecu being at fault since there are no codes. I have assumed the the test terminal is no good. Could be the actual computer. Well, this weekend I will give it the last hoorah before loading it on a uhaul to get back to AR.

 

[Earl43P]

All Fords use the PCM Power relay to acivate the fuel pump relay.

In other words, turn the key to Run, Check Engine Light should come on.
If not, the PCM (EEC) relay is suspect. It has the tan or brown base.
The fuel pump relay is green base.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...les/Diagram_ElectronicEngControls2_3_1of3.JPG

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Ignitionsystem_1990_2_3.JPG

Check for power on the R/LG wire to the coil packs (key in Run) before replacing them. No power, no workie, so don't replace them.
Another thing to check is the small wire from the -battery terminal to ground.
Look at those two links ^ and good luck!

 

[CHKNFKR]

if you ooen your manual to the troubleshooting section, i guarantee parts replacement is not an approved troubleshooting procedure.

 

[modelageek]

If it is the ecu I am screwed. I am not going to pursue the fix in this jersey hotel parking lot any more in depth after the couple hundred bucks for the sensor and coil packs. If it gets any deeper, the truck is getting towed home and the entire electrical is getting replaced in my real garage. Chasing parts with no codes is really getting me down. You may be right about the ecu being at fault since there are no codes. I have assumed the the test terminal is no good. Could be the actual computer. Well, this weekend I will give it the last hoorah before loading it on a uhaul to get back to AR.

Congratulations.........you made the sticky for "how not to repair a truck"....You are putting a "how not to fix your truck clinic on"....................why would you think both your coils blew out...........you should call a mechanic..........before something bad happens to you or someone in the parking lot......

*maybe you are just making all this up from your Mothers basement thinking it is funny....I am not sure

 

[jd6gun]

Earl43P-Thanks, I am not a mechanic(obviuosly). After a lot of thought about trying the fuel pump relay and looking at the replacement relay I got from the parts store and seeing that the relay they gave me had five prongs but the tan and green relays had four, the green relay (as you put out being the fuel pump relay) was directly beneath the fuel relay fuse in pdb. Go figure. I still need to get the correct relay and try that. The tan PCM (EEC) relay also had four prongs. The gray relay had five prongs. None of this is in my Haynes book. I will go ahead and get those relays and try. I will try your other suggestions and check the links. Thanks for the technical savvy. I need a better FM.

CHKNFKR-My Haynes book was not much help in the troubleshooting section, and I realize I am chasing parts and catching mud in my eye.

modelageek-Hate to tell you that it is a mechanic that told me to change the coil packs. Thanks for the advice. He has been pushing me toward the CPS and said to go on and change the coils while I am at it. Nope, not in my mother's basement bro. Operating heavy equipment, surveying, investigating, and prosecuting unknown subsurface anomalies at the Former Raritan Arsenal at Edison, NJ 12 hours a day five days a week and trying to get back home to my family (I do not get to see months at a stretch) in a 20 year old truck that I have owned for 17 hard years. Keeping it running for the next few years will help me pay off the two homes I am currently financing. After a sixty hour week of hard outdoor labor and a sudden breakdown 1200 miles from home and tools, my mind may not be as sharply focused as I wish on the simple problem of getting this old rig going to drag me back to AR which is getting exponentially more complex. This ain't my first rodeo, but I am getting bucked off more than I expected. I appreciate the helpful advice but can the sarcasm.

 

[12step]

This same thing happened to me the other day my truck started sputtering so at 125,000 on the clock I figured ill go ahead and change my timing belt so I pulled my truck into my mothers basement and drove my other truck to work till the weekend. Weekend comes I change the timing belt and put just enough stuff back on to make sure it will crank, well it wouldn't it wouldn't even for with ether. So I checked spark I had spark , so I checked fuel plugs were wet when I pulled em out so I assumed I fuel checked compression I had compression it was hot so I said screwit it is beer thirty ill get it next weekend next weekend comes I check fuel pressure fuel pressure is fine so as I release the pressure in my gauge I notice that it is white and milky so I get my siphon pump out of my mothers underwear drawer I didn't ask turns out I had three gallons of water in my fuel tank I pumped it all out put some fresh gas in there and she fired right up . So yeah way to long story check the quality of your fuel