Engine removal on a 1990 2.9 auto 4x4

[cardana24]

It will hold it, but it's only held mounted from around the middle of the trans. Being bolted to the engine is what is supporting it in the front. Basically the front of the trans can move up and down somewhat (which is a good thing). Just trust me on this one, or else you'll have an "oh shit, what was that?" moment when you hear it fall, then realize that it was the trans (I've forgotten to put a jack under the bell before). It's not that far that it can fall, but I never feel comfortable just letting it do that.

Pete

Well I have a jack with a block of wood on that hump towards the front of the tranny. I marked the stud on the tq converter/flexplate and took the nuts off of the studs, so the tq converter should be seperated from the plate when I pull the engine. I am pretty sure I got all of the bellhousing to engine bolts out last night but I will re check again tonight. I did not mess with the motor mounts last night, I am going to take them loose tonight and see what else is holding on.

So I still have the question. Do can you take the lower IM off with out removing the distributor?

 

[Psychopete]

So I still have the question. Do can you take the lower IM off with out removing the distributor?

The intake has 2 studs that are used to guide it back on. I can't really think of a way to remove the studs with the intake on very easily, and it would seem the lower intake would hit the base of the distributor if you pulled it strait up with the studs in place. I'm not looking at it now, but I suppose give it a try, if it doesn't, just remove the dist. The hardest part is probably getting the oil pump shaft back into the bottom of the dist shaft when reinstalling.

Easiest way to get the studs out is with 2 nuts. You put one on about half way down the thread and take another and tighten it against it. Then you have something to grab onto with a wrench to loosen.

Pete

Edit:
But I would guess that it needs removed..

 

[cardana24]

The intake has 2 studs that are used to guide it back on. I can't really think of a way to remove the studs with the intake on very easily, and it would seem the lower intake would hit the base of the distributor if you pulled it strait up with the studs in place. I'm not looking at it now, but I suppose give it a try, if it doesn't, just remove the dist. The hardest part is probably getting the oil pump shaft back into the bottom of the dist shaft when reinstalling.

Easiest way to get the studs out is with 2 nuts. You put one on about half way down the thread and take another and tighten it against it. Then you have something to grab onto with a wrench to loosen.

Pete

Edit:
But I would guess that it needs removed..

I am asking because I already took the LIM and the dis out of the engine I am putting in, but in order to do that I had to take the dis out, because of the studs going through the LIM.

 

[MAKG]

I guess I really don't understand WHY you would want to remove those studs. Just leave them in. If they MUST come out, the double-nut technique works.

On a 2.9L, the distributor simply must come out or the lower intake won't. You will have to retime the engine upon installation, but you can get it close by marking the distributor (if the engine is installed, find a sight-line and mark it on the dist cap or body; otherwise mark the base against the block).

Because 2.9Ls are based on a Hall Effect sensor (which functions VERY much like points) and not a VRS, you can static-time it. Turn the key on, pull the SPOUT, set the crank on 10 deg BTDC on the compression stroke, and rotate the dist until #1 fires (test with a timing light or spark tester). Then, start the engine and fine tune it.

 

[cardana24]

I guess I really don't understand WHY you would want to remove those studs. Just leave them in. If they MUST come out, the double-nut technique works.

On a 2.9L, the distributor simply must come out or the lower intake won't. You will have to retime the engine upon installation, but you can get it close by marking the distributor (if the engine is installed, find a sight-line and mark it on the dist cap or body; otherwise mark the base against the block).

Because 2.9Ls are based on a Hall Effect sensor (which functions VERY much like points) and not a VRS, you can static-time it. Turn the key on, pull the SPOUT, set the crank on 10 deg BTDC on the compression stroke, and rotate the dist until #1 fires (test with a timing light or spark tester). Then, start the engine and fine tune it.

I have no desire to take the studs out. I was just wondering if it would come out with out doing that.

As for re timing the engine I am fine with that. I will set cylinder 1 to TDC before I pull the dis and I will mark it. So when I put it back together it should be close.

 

[cardana24]

How in the world do you get the engine mount nut off of the lower stud on the passenger side?!? I have tried it for a while but I have not had any luck. I am going to sears now to look for different tools.

 

[Psychopete]

How in the world do you get the engine mount nut off of the lower stud on the passenger side?!? I have tried it for a while but I have not had any luck. I am going to sears now to look for different tools.

I dropped the I-beam that's in the way, that mug is a PITA. On the other hand, I just replaced a MacPherson strut on my Tempo, and that is sounding more appealing at the moment. Apparently others have gotten to it with a series of universal joints (but I don't know how).

Pete

Edit:

If you just need to get the engine out, there's a top nut to the motor mount that you can simply unscrew for the time being.. I did that to just get the lower mount out.

 

[cardana24]

I dropped the I-beam that's in the way, that mug is a PITA. On the other hand, I just replaced a MacPherson strut on my Tempo, and that is sounding more appealing at the moment. Apparently others have gotten to it with a series of universal joints (but I don't know how).

Pete

Edit:

If you just need to get the engine out, there's a top nut to the motor mount that you can simply unscrew for the time being.. I did that to just get the lower mount out.

Is it easy to drop the I beam?

I don't know how any one can get it out with universal joints, I tried that with both half inch and 3/8's drive and I cannot get any where close to the right angle to generate enough tq. I tried with my air gun and also with a breaker bar...I am wondering if my air ratchet will fit up in there? Even if it does I am not sure it will generate enough force to get the nut loose.


Yes I only need to get the engine out. What top nut are you talking about? I already took the one off of the mount that is facing up, but there is also the one facing down that I have not been able to get out. Could you explain this a little more. I am not following what you are saying. Thanks.

 

[BlackBII]

If you took the nut off of the top of the Motor mount, the motor should come out, you don't need to remove the motor mount itself, just the top nut. 3/4 or 18MM I think it was.

 

[Psychopete]

Is it easy to drop the I beam?

The hardest was getting the old bolt loose and out. I supported it with a jack once bolt was loose and lowered it down until I had enough clearance. Then getting it back in place was a task, too.

Like what was said, you only need to get the top nut of the mount to get the motor out only. I removed the bottom nut to replace the motor mouts for good measure; I already had the engine out at that point in time.

Pete

 

[RangerAx]

It's 18mm incidentally. Personally I had little problems getting this one loose using a 20 inch extension bar with a 6 point deep socket and a breaker bar.
I havent actually pulled mine yet, all I have left is to finish pulling the tranny bolts and the mount bolts and the oil pressure sensor down below (which I'm waiting until I start to pull the engine for since I don't have the fancy smancy socket for that...there's plenty of slack on the wires to lift the engine a bit so I can get on it with a crescent)
That being said, I'd also add I'm not in a hurry because mine will be a bit of a pain..the exhaust manifolds won't separate from the Y pipe, so I'm going to try to pull the engine out with the manifolds sitting right there which may present a problem for the oil filter to clear...but I'm not really adding to the conversation at this point so I'll shush.

 

[IDontCare]

the oilfliter will clear it no problem once u get it lifted up some and disconnected from the trans you can move the whole y pipe around abit to clear the oil filter. i never took off the manifolds when i pulled my motor out. its just a pain trying to fit it back on the trans with them in the way. but it can be done.

 

[IDontCare]

oh yeah.. and it helps to have an extra set of hands to get it back in. little trick i learned tho, use a jack under the cat to hold the whole y pipe up so its easyer to line it all up, or eles your going to be hurting your back trying hold it up and catch the threads with a bolt in the other hand.

 

[RangerAx]

Ah coool. I might pull it tonight. As for putting it back in, it will not be a problem. Once the engine's out, I figure it may be easier to finish getting the exhaust out, as some or all of it will be replaced when the engine does finally go back in. I may put in headers if I decide to pony up the money for them, but at the very least I will probably replace the exhaust from the manifolds down to and including the cat. Heck who knows maybe it'll even get a dual exhaust. (I know I know why bother....let's not go there.)

 

[Psychopete]

dual exhaust

I don't know what kind of dual exhaust you're thinking of, but keep in mind that there's only one oxygen sensor. The computer can't monitor 2 separate banks. I have duals on my truck, but it's a cheater set up, it's dual out of the muffler. Otherwise, I have pacesetters w/ collector pipe, then single in to the muffler.

Pete