Engine removal on a 1990 2.9 auto 4x4

[cardana24]

I am in the process of doing a 2.9 to 2.9 engine swap in a 1990 ranger with an auto transmission. Currently only the exhuast and transmission and engine mounts are hooked to the engine. I have taken every thing else out. Now the problem is it seems/looks imposible to get to the bell housing to engine bolts. How are you guys removing these engines? Are you pulling the engine and tranny together? What about the transfer case? Has anyone done a write up on engine removal? Do I need to take the header panel/ bumper off and pull everything through the front? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Psychopete]

Some drop the trans tail low enough and get a really really long set of extensions, and get them that way. I use a snap-on swivelling head ratchet w/ a mix of short extensions and different sockets. You could also pull trans w/ motor attached (Edit: just noticed you said 4x4, I have no idea how difficult it is to separate the A4LD and transfer case), and disconnect / reconnect when it's out of the truck. What I really hate is how close the transmission cooling lines for the A4LD are so close to the frame.

When reinstalling absolutely make sure the torque converter is "clicked" on to the input shaft.

Pete

 

[IMenriched]

take the hood off of course.

I seperated the engine from the tranny...left the tranny in the truck resting on a block of wood. It looked like the T case would had to come off otherwise, as well as the trans support from the frame...didn't want to monkey with all that.

Just had to remove the radiator and fan clutch (maybe lefthand threads on the fan clutch).

yes + 10... on making sure the tranny cooling lines are tucked out of the way /disconnected. just disconnected the wireing harness and other items and move them off to the side....some may say to take the upper intake off prior to removeal too...don't remember that i did...would advise to remove the distributor cap thou, (just the dist cap not the whole distributor)

when going back together its difficult to get the engine, tranny& torque converter back lined up but not impossible...couple of buddies at that moment are good to have around...more eyes and hands to help guide.

 

[cardana24]

So is there a write up on how someone removed the engine with a few pictures. I hear what you guys are saying but it seems like it would be really tough to get to the engine-bell housing bolts. How many bolts are holding those two together? I can really only see two of them easily. Also I am doing this in my garage with jacks so I do not have a lift, if that makes a difference on how you reply. I could really use some more detailed advice. Do I need to move the tranny at all? How do the motor mounts come loose? It looks like there are two bolt/nuts holding them to the frame, but even once they are loose it looks like the engine would not be able to move down because it would hit the frame. I would like to lower it to gain better access to the tranny bolts.

 

[Psychopete]

I have old crappy tools, and no lift. I can't remember how many bell bolts there were (6-8). It is tough and time consuming, it's possible though. Feel around for them.

A model specific shop manual would be the only write up out there that I could think of..

I didn't have to move tranny, but you'll want to put a block of wood and a jack under the tranny once the engine is loose before you pull it apart. It will drop down.

But like I said, others have dropped the tail of the trans and gotten to the bell bolts with a lot of long extenstions. I've used a swivell head socket on more than one RWD ('87 Marquis AOD trans swap, '85 Grand Prix w/ 262 -> 327ci / TH350)

Probably not going to be able to lower the engine much. The motor mounts have a bolt facing down and one up that the motor bolts to. The only way for that to go is up. The bottom nut on the passenger side can be a PITA, I ended up dropping the I-beam to get at it to replace the motor mounts. Apparently it can be done with U-joints, but it didn't quite work out that way for me. You're thinking too hard about it, just go do it.

Pete

 

[AllanD]

start by removing the upper intake manifold from the engine.

A)this makes it far less abusive to the wiring harness that you must seperate from the engine anyway.
B)makes it far easier to reach over the back of the engine to get the two top bellhousing bolts.

AD

 

[WhiteBroncoII2WD]

I have old crappy tools, and no lift. I can't remember how many bell bolts there were (6-8). It is tough and time consuming, it's possible though. Feel around for them.

A model specific shop manual would be the only write up out there that I could think of..

I didn't have to move tranny, but you'll want to put a block of wood and a jack under the tranny once the engine is loose before you pull it apart. It will drop down.

But like I said, others have dropped the tail of the trans and gotten to the bell bolts with a lot of long extenstions. I've used a swivell head socket on more than one RWD ('87 Marquis AOD trans swap, '85 Grand Prix w/ 262 -> 327ci / TH350)

Probably not going to be able to lower the engine much. The motor mounts have a bolt facing down and one up that the motor bolts to. The only way for that to go is up. The bottom nut on the passenger side can be a PITA, I ended up dropping the I-beam to get at it to replace the motor mounts. Apparently it can be done with U-joints, but it didn't quite work out that way for me. You're thinking too hard about it, just go do it.

Pete

The best thing to do is just to go at it; I believe all we used was a regular wench and a socket wench and of course took it real slow but sure.

 

[177CIOfPureLove]

When I did my swap, I had no problem getting at the bolts on the bellhousing on the 4x4 or the 4x2 trucks. Get a little step ladder in front of the bumper, step up on it and lean out over the motor. Feel around behind the heads for the top bolts, there is just enough space to get them out with a wrench. Once i broke them free i used a stubby wrench, Didnt take me more than 10 minutes. The rest as I am sure you noticed are all easilly accessable from under the car. Just take a floor jack and put it under the tranny bellhousing if you need too. The exaust bolts I am sure will not come out for you. You can try and take the manifold off of the head, but i think you will snap at least half of the bolts in the head. I took a grinder and cut the pipes off after the manifold, then once the motor was out drilled the bolts out of the collector and used new hardened hardware. Nothing to drill out of the head then.

 

[cardana24]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have not been able to work on it in a few days but I should be able to put a few hours in tonight. As for removing the upper IM I think thats a good idea but do I need to pull the distribuitor in order to do that? I know on the engine that is going in I took the upper IM off of that one and it appeared to me you have to remove the dis. in order to take the IM off? Any one know if I have to take the dis out before I take the upper IM off?

and as for the exhaust bolts I am probably just going to cut the exhaust off. I cannot get any sockets to fit on the bolts very well since the way the flange comes down tight right next to the bolts.

 

[BlackBII]

You don't need to remove the Dis in order to remove the Intake, in Fact, you will likely need to remove the Intake Before ever removing the Dis, otherwise it's a real pain.

On every 2.9 i've pulled(about 7 I would say) I have been able to get to the top two bellhouing bolts with a box end 1/2 wrench. I had a ratcheting wrench so it made it easier. I just stood on a bucket and put my arm down there.

And for the Exhaust, they have all been either 9/16 or 15mm, I used a socket and a few long extensions. I sprayed some PB Blaster and used a 1/2 breaker bar. You don't want to cut the exhaust unless you have a plan on how to repair it later, welding, clamps etc.

 

[cardana24]

You don't need to remove the Dis in order to remove the Intake, in Fact, you will likely need to remove the Intake Before ever removing the Dis, otherwise it's a real pain.

On every 2.9 i've pulled(about 7 I would say) I have been able to get to the top two bellhouing bolts with a box end 1/2 wrench. I had a ratcheting wrench so it made it easier. I just stood on a bucket and put my arm down there.

And for the Exhaust, they have all been either 9/16 or 15mm, I used a socket and a few long extensions. I sprayed some PB Blaster and used a 1/2 breaker bar. You don't want to cut the exhaust unless you have a plan on how to repair it later, welding, clamps etc.

Thanks for that info.

As for the exhaust I know if I cut it I will need to repair it. The repair I am going to do is just getting a new y pipe. It's only $80 at Advanced Auto.

 

[cardana24]

I was getting my manifolds mixed up. I was wondering if you needed to remove the dis. before you remove the lower IM. Last night I did not work very long but I removed the upper IM and dis cap. Tonight I am going to attempt to pull the engine. I need to hook my hoist to the engine, and remove the exhuast/ bell housing bolts/ and engine mounts. Then it should come out.

I have done several engine swaps in the past but I have never done one on an auto tranny. Is there any thing I need to know about the auto that would be different that a manual swap? I know something needs to happen with the tq converter, but I am not familiar with that.

 

[Psychopete]

I have done several engine swaps in the past but I have never done one on an auto tranny. Is there any thing I need to know about the auto that would be different that a manual swap? I know something needs to happen with the tq converter, but I am not familiar with that.

4 nuts, get them from the bottom though the dust plate where the engine and trans meet. Some bump the starter to rotate, but I just turn the engine over by hand w/ breaker bar in 90 degree rotations on the crank.

Be absolutely sure to put a jack under the trans, it will drop HARD once the engine is disconnected. It's possible that the torque converter could slip off the input shaft and smack against the floor if no jack. It just pulls out, but it needs to be clicked in 3 times for reinstall or else the pump will get destroyed. To click it in, simply put it on the input shaft, push forward, and move it left/right and it will click into place.

I've seen a few posts where this happened to other members, that's why I stress that so much.

Pete

 

[cardana24]

4 nuts, get them from the bottom though the dust plate where the engine and trans meet. Some bump the starter to rotate, but I just turn the engine over by hand w/ breaker bar in 90 degree rotations on the crank.

Be absolutely sure to put a jack under the trans, it will drop HARD once the engine is disconnected. It's possible that the torque converter could slip off the input shaft and smack against the floor if no jack. It just pulls out, but it needs to be clicked in 3 times for reinstall or else the pump will get destroyed. To click it in, simply put it on the input shaft, push forward, and move it left/right and it will click into place.

I've seen a few posts where this happened to other members, that's why I stress that so much.

Pete

Thanks for the advise. I will use a jack but I am not sure I understand why the transmission will fall down since it would still be held up by the cross brace...maybe I am missing something?

 

[Psychopete]

Thanks for the advise. I will use a jack but I am not sure I understand why the transmission will fall down since it would still be held up by the cross brace...maybe I am missing something?

It will hold it, but it's only held mounted from around the middle of the trans. Being bolted to the engine is what is supporting it in the front. Basically the front of the trans can move up and down somewhat (which is a good thing). Just trust me on this one, or else you'll have an "oh shit, what was that?" moment when you hear it fall, then realize that it was the trans (I've forgotten to put a jack under the bell before). It's not that far that it can fall, but I never feel comfortable just letting it do that.

Pete