• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Engine Control Module- So many options?


Chapap

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jul 31, 2021
Messages
1,068
City
NW Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14
There seems to be several types of ECMs available. I imagine there’s 4 basic types: California or fed emission, and Auto or manual. But there’s several different codes I’m finding within those four categories. Is there a way to figure out what I need without pulling mine to get the numbers?

‘94, 2.3, 2wd
 
Just pull yours.
 
There seems to be several types of ECMs available. I imagine there’s 4 basic types: California or fed emission, and Auto or manual. But there’s several different codes I’m finding within those four categories. Is there a way to figure out what I need without pulling mine to get the numbers?

‘94, 2.3, 2wd
I not sure but I think the VIN would work
 
You need to look at yours and read the calibration number off of it. It's on a sticker attached to the ECM. That's the only way to be sure.
 
You need to look at yours and read the calibration number off of it. It's on a sticker attached to the ECM. That's the only way to be sure.


Well looks like that’s the only option. Mine most likely is original.
What do folks do if they suspect a previous owner put the wrong module in, or the sticker rubbed off or something?

Edit: just got off the phone with my dealer. They were still able to look up my calibration, engineering, and part number. Will check it with what’s in the truck.
He said my calibration is 449SR00
Part is F47F12A650BGB
 
Last edited:
I don't know if a dealer could look up the correct one based on the VIN...that might be an option? I guess if what's in there does not match what's available for that year I'd be suspicious... our trucks are getting to the age where it's hard to say what's been messed with unless you have a clear record of owners. I know my old Bronco II, for example, had a flood salvage tag on it from Florida, then went to North Dakota where it sat in a barn for 15 years after the owner died. After I sold it I saw it for sale at least 7 or 8 different times. It's kinda shocking how many times they get passed around and messed with.
 
Well looks like that’s the only option. Mine most likely is original.
What do folks do if they suspect a previous owner put the wrong module in, or the sticker rubbed off or something?

PM your VIN and I’ll see if I can find it in OASIS.

Also check the door jam for a sticker that says “calibration”.
 
PM your VIN and I’ll see if I can find it in OASIS.

Also check the door jam for a sticker that says “calibration”.

I didn’t type fast enough. See my edit in my previous post.
 
PM your VIN and I’ll see if I can find it in OASIS.

Also check the door jam for a sticker that says “calibration”.

Doesn't oasis only go back 10 model years?
 
There seems to be several types of ECMs available. I imagine there’s 4 basic types: California or fed emission, and Auto or manual. But there’s several different codes I’m finding within those four categories. Is there a way to figure out what I need without pulling mine to get the numbers?

‘94, 2.3, 2wd
Post photo of sticker on ECM.
 
I not sure but I think the VIN would work
Not every time. Wound up with one that was marked with a 2.9 manual part number that had a calibration for a 4.9 auto.

You need to look at yours and read the calibration number off of it. It's on a sticker attached to the ECM. That's the only way to be sure.
This.



There exists in the internet a list of all available EEC-IV / EEV-V calibration codes. I think TwEECer or some other tuning site has it. It's semi reliable, but not always correct.

You're looking for the three digit code on the ECM that's in your truck. Kick panel, passenger side. Just post a photo of the bar and numeric codes on the 60 pin adapter.

No guarantee that it's the right one in there, though.

Typically, if you're having trouble with an EEC-IV, the electrolytic capacitors on the primary board shit themselves. They are typically only good for 20 years. Lots of instruction out there on how to replace them.
 
Is there a trick to getting the connector off? I tried unscrewing the bolt and it feels like the nut behind it is spinning in its housing. No budging from the connector
 
I had the shop hack the old one out. The new one (BGB) resulted in a no start. The ECU in the truck is ADC though. That’s a relief cause BGB is near impossible to find. There appears to be two ford numbers on the original computer. I assume I’m looking for the one on the sticker.

This is a good thread I found. I’m very pleased that he said ADC is the comp to get as it matches what came out of my truck
 

Attachments

  • 5E46CC49-32FB-4B69-9B7A-9CA60634B548.jpeg
    5E46CC49-32FB-4B69-9B7A-9CA60634B548.jpeg
    177.1 KB · Views: 89
  • 9E94D6F8-FF7B-4DA7-9AE5-4372571D63D0.jpeg
    9E94D6F8-FF7B-4DA7-9AE5-4372571D63D0.jpeg
    203.4 KB · Views: 98
Last edited:

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top