Engine Braking with an automatic transmission?

[hayduke.klr07]

I bought a new to me '06 Ranger Fx4 levelii, automatic transmission with 26K miles on it last spring.
Love the truck 98% of the time.

Why does the transmission not hold me back in 1st? 2nd seems to do a fairly good job but not 1st. It will roll down hill unrestricted, RPMs don't move til I give it gas. and this is the case when in 4x4Low as well.

This seems illogical to me and a safety concern. This morning I went and cut some firewood, loaded my 5x10 trailer and took off for home. Had to pump my brakes the whole way down the hill.

take a look at this hill: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moki_Dugway

took this truck down that hill last spring. Needed to pump the brakes the whole way due to no engine compression braking. Now put a small pop-up trailer behind it and I might be a bit scared.

I know that an auto is not a manual. I drove my '93 manual for 15 years before purchasing this truck. I got a great deal, low miles. But I am ready to get rid of it. Does Ford not realize that it is a tool and not a car?

I am open for thoughts and suggestions. is there a modification or workaround that will keep me in this truck?

help.

 

[heptofite]

it's a safety feature to prevent you from over-revving the engine or harming the transmission.

if you have to rely on engine braking to slow the truck, it's overloaded, don't overload it.

 

[hayduke.klr07]

I guess what I am saying is that sometimes a guy only wants to roll downhill 5-10 mph or so. This morning I was coming down a forest service two track. decent enough road but you need to go slow. Can't do it without riding the brakes.

So there is no modification out there?

 

[adsm08]

Have you tried engaging the tow/haul mode during these events? That should enable a higher degree of engine braking.


That being said, the breaks are a wearable item that are placed on the vehicle for the purpose of slowing and stopping it. The engine bearings are NOT.

The engine is an engine, it is not a brake. If you need the engine to slow you while you are going down hill loaded, either you are over loaded, or you need to get some friggin trailer brakes.

If your engine is not producing enough vacuum to keep your booster going, either get your foot off the throttle or go get the engine fixed.


Finally, read your owners manual. If you don't have one, stop being a cheap-skate and go get one. They can be found on Amazon, and if all else fails, the dealership can order you one.

Here is what the shop manual says about the coast clutch, which is responsible for engine braking:

Clutch — Coast

For component location, refer to Transmission in this section.

The coast clutch is a multi-disc clutch made up of steel and friction plates.

The coast clutch is applied with hydraulic pressure and disengaged by return springs and the exhaust of the hydraulic pressure.
The coast clutch is housed in the front brake and coast clutch drum.
The coast clutch is applied when the TCS switch is on, energizing SSD and 5th gear operation is inhibited (4th gear only).
The coast clutch is hydraulically applied when the transmission is in the manual 2nd and manual 1st position.
When applied, the coast clutch locks the input shaft to the front planetary carrier, thus preventing the one-way clutch from overrunning when the vehicle is coasting.
This allows the use of engine compression to help slow the vehicle and provide engine braking.



Basically, if you aren't getting enough engine brake, take it out of drive and put it in 2. Learn to drive your vehicle before complaining that it doesn't work right.

 

[hayduke.klr07]

"Basically, if you aren't getting enough engine brake, take it out of drive and put it in 2. Learn to drive your vehicle before complaining that it doesn't work right. "

Seriously? I am not an idiot.

what I am talking about is sub 15mph downhill travel in 1st. NOT DRIVE. the overdrive is the towhaul right? That should have no bearing on speeds as low as i am talking about or should it?

Should i experience, with the transmission in 1st, engine RPM increase (engine compression braking) as i pick up speed heading downhill? I would think so. If I should, then my truck is malfunctioning. I am beginning to think so after reading your post about engine compression. The motor appears to be completely disengaged from the transmission when coasting, in 1st, NOT DRIVE, downhill.

 

[adsm08]

Tow/haul is more than just shutting off the overdrive gear. It modifies shift patterns, it changes engine braking, it changes TC lock-up.

Even in manual 1 or 2, engine braking will shut off below a certain speed, around 15 MPH, partially to prevent engine stall. The converter clutch won't be locked up, and with the wheels going that slow the converter won't be able to put any appreciable drag on the engine.

My original assertion that the engine is an engine, not a brake, stands. The brakes are the brakes. They are a cheap and easily replaced wearable item meant to slow and stop the vehicle. If you can't slow down fast enough or keep your speed low enough on a descent then you are overloading the vehicle. If you are towing with it, get a trailer brake controller and a trailer with some brakes.

I tow maybe once or twice a year. Usually loads that my truck's brakes could handle by themselves, but I have it wired for trailer brakes anyway. Why? Because the trailer I use has brakes, and if they are there, I might as well use them.

 

[Bent Bolt]

Tow/haul is more than just shutting off the overdrive gear. It modifies shift patterns, it changes engine braking, it changes TC lock-up.

Even in manual 1 or 2, engine braking will shut off below a certain speed, around 15 MPH, partially to prevent engine stall. The converter clutch won't be locked up, and with the wheels going that slow the converter won't be able to put any appreciable drag on the engine.

My original assertion that the engine is an engine, not a brake, stands. The brakes are the brakes. They are a cheap and easily replaced wearable item meant to slow and stop the vehicle. If you can't slow down fast enough or keep your speed low enough on a descent then you are overloading the vehicle. If you are towing with it, get a trailer brake controller and a trailer with some brakes.

What the hell ? Engine braking will shut off below a certain speed ? Pure bull crap through and through.

To the OP , Yes you should have engine braking in MAN1 AND with OD off ( OD lamp ON ). If you still have reverse - which you should since you haven't said anything about it- there is something wrong with the coast clutch or the CC solenoid .

 

[adsm08]

What the hell ? Engine braking will shut off below a certain speed ? Pure bull crap through and through.

I have never driven an auto that gave any form of significant engine braking below 15 mph.

Think about this, if you keep engine braking going, even with an auto, you will stall the engine once you get going so slow. No, you won't stall at 15 mph, but it shuts off.

Even our Escape with the "hill descent assist feature" kills it and just coasts once you are below about 10 or so.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you shift it into low if you keep it in drive it will shift up with no pressure on the skinny pedal you can shift down while your running and the gears will take over I do it all the time for braking in the snow so the front wheels dont lock up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Also pumping the brakes will make them hotter on a long hill keeping a light steady pressure on the pedal is better on the brakes.

 

['99 EB Explorer]

What the hell ? Engine braking will shut off below a certain speed ? Pure bull crap through and through.

To the OP , Yes you should have engine braking in MAN1 AND with OD off ( OD lamp ON ). If you still have reverse - which you should since you haven't said anything about it- there is something wrong with the coast clutch or the CC solenoid .

Dude, even my work truck (Freightliner) shuts the jake brake off below 1200rpm. It's the way they're designed.

I would think that, just like my truck, the one on the Ranger would be that way too. Could you imagine trying to shift(or the transmission trying to shift) while the brake is on?! Can we say catastrophic failure?!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Tow/haul is more than just shutting off the overdrive gear. It modifies shift patterns, it changes engine braking, it changes TC lock-up.

On a Ranger all it does is lock out the OD.

http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuote/manuals/2006/Ranger.pdf

Page 165

 

[hayduke.klr07]

hey! thanks for all the input.

This is the first time I have ever wanted something to be wrong with a vehicle.

Even if I can get some engine braking out of first I will be a happy camper.

 

[Ozwynn]

hey! thanks for all the input.

This is the first time I have ever wanted something to be wrong with a vehicle.

Even if I can get some engine braking out of first I will be a happy camper.

it doesn't stay locked under 15 mph because there is not enough line pressure to keep it locked, after all it is a hydraulic pressure clutch, it needs line pressure to stay engaged.

what I am about to tell you is dangerous but you are an adult so try this.

use 4lo and manually shift to your lowest gear and ride a steady throttle to keep the clutch engaged........ but I would only do this if the brakes failed as an emergency procedure.

I used to own a big rig with a 2 pedal auto shift and I had to ride the brakes and throttle up the engine to keep the clutches engaged to bump the dock.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

use 4lo and manually shift to your lowest gear and ride a steady throttle to keep the clutch engaged........ but I would only do this if the brakes failed as an emergency procedure.

It would be more of a "limp home" procedure than anything. You have to be stopped to shift from high to low, and once you are stopped the emergancy part should be over.