Electric fan installation

[Dustinicus]

Does anyone know at what temperature the coolant temperature switch is activated? If it is not too hot when it switches on, I would like to hook my electric fan relay to it, instead of turning on whenever the truck is on.

I made a single relay harness and wiring for an electric fan I put into my 85 2.3l ranger to replace the clutch fan.

Dustin

 

[monstermazda]

Idk but they make a 160 it's probably close to 180 185 some where in there

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[RonD]

Does anyone know at what temperature the coolant temperature switch is activated? If it is not too hot when it switches on, I would like to hook my electric fan relay to it, instead of turning on whenever the truck is on.

I made a single relay harness and wiring for an electric fan I put into my 85 2.3l ranger to replace the clutch fan.

Dustin

A Ranger doesn't have a temperature "switch", it has a Sender for the Temp gauge on the dash, and if fuel injected it will have an ECT sensor as well.

Neither is a "switch", i.e. on/off, both are variable resistors, so neither goes to 0 ohms(ground)

Best bet is to add a temp switch or use a relay temp sensor that inserts into the rad fins
Temp switch, is "Open" until it reaches a certain temp then "Closes" to Ground the connected wire.
So on your relay you will supply relay with 12volts key on, then run the relays ground to the temp switch, when temp switch closes relay will also close and power up your fan

These are used to insert a temp switch into the upper rad hose: https://www.amazon.com/s/?tag=959media-20
Many import cars used these so check wrecking yards

Temp switch part here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/185-To-175-...n-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-/311625285473
This single wire switch needs to be grounded, so when using a "bung" as shown above you need to add a ground wire to that bung since it is on the radiator hose and has no natural ground to engine.

This type needs to be mounted closer to the engine than radiator if practical, and you want the temp switch to always be IN the coolant, so mount it on its side, so if a little air gets into hose switch will still be IN the coolant.

This is example of rad fin insert switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-a-lite...re-Thermostat-Switch-Adjustable-/191618608304
These have an adjustment to set the temp it "closes" at, because where you place it in the rad matters


general speaking you want the fan to start working when coolant in the engine is around 185degF on a Ford, thats about when thermostat opens and coolant start to flow thru the radiator, no need for fan before that happens

 

[Dustinicus]

i wired the fan like I did so i wouldnt forget to turn a switch on. I thought the trucks that have a dummy light WERE switches? i can find part listings for trucks with a gauge and without a gauge, one says temp. sender the other says temp switch.
My truck has a fuel gauge, speedo, and three dummy lights for coolant, amps, and oil pressure.
the ammeter has a resistor in the light socket behind it, i figure it is some kind of shunt.

Either way, thank you for the input. I appreciate your time
Dustin

 

[Curious Hound]

Have you checked out these tech articles?

Volvo fan install

e-fan install

Here is how I did mine. It's slightly more complicated, but has more functionality.

 

[Spott]

i wired the fan like I did so i wouldnt forget to turn a switch on. I thought the trucks that have a dummy light WERE switches? i can find part listings for trucks with a gauge and without a gauge, one says temp. sender the other says temp switch.
My truck has a fuel gauge, speedo, and three dummy lights for coolant, amps, and oil pressure.
the ammeter has a resistor in the light socket behind it, i figure it is some kind of shunt.

Either way, thank you for the input. I appreciate your time
Dustin

There may be a temp switch that turns on the warning light, but you don't want to use that. That switch is activated when the engine is actually in a mild overheat condition, and you want your fan to turn on well below that temperature, to prevent getting that hot.

 

[Dustinicus]

There may be a temp switch that turns on the warning light, but you don't want to use that. That switch is activated when the engine is actually in a mild overheat condition, and you want your fan to turn on well below that temperature, to prevent getting that hot.

That is kind of what I thought. I will just buy a 200-180 switch, that ought to keep the engine in a comfortable range.

Thank you everyone
Dustin

 

[Diesel Mechanic]

Which switch depends on where you mount it. I recently changed my set up and found a lot of conflicting answers to the e fan mounting. Some use a higher temp switch (185-200) and mount it to the engine. Others use the probe through the rad (this didn't work for me). The system I chose was closer to how the oem's do it. I used a lower rad hose adapter to mount a 165-185 temp switch. This way, the fans only come on when my radiator is struggling to produce cooler water temps. Your fan or fans are only needed to move air over the rad when coolant flows through the rad and cannot get a proper temp drop on the outlet. Therefore, the most effective location of the temp sensor is as close to the outlet of the rad as you can. Most oem's mount the switch with in inches of the outlet for this reason.


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[RonD]

Which switch depends on where you mount it. I recently changed my set up and found a lot of conflicting answers to the e fan mounting. Some use a higher temp switch (185-200) and mount it to the engine. Others use the probe through the rad (this didn't work for me). The system I chose was closer to how the oem's do it. I used a lower rad hose adapter to mount a 165-185 temp switch. This way, the fans only come on when my radiator is struggling to produce cooler water temps. Your fan or fans are only needed to move air over the rad when coolant flows through the rad and cannot get a proper temp drop on the outlet. Therefore, the most effective location of the temp sensor is as close to the outlet of the rad as you can. Most oem's mount the switch with in inches of the outlet for this reason.


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+1 ^^^

Also not likely to be uncovered if coolant gets low for some reason.
These senders work best if they are in coolant, not air.

 

[Curious Hound]

the most effective location of the temp sensor is as close to the outlet of the rad as you can

I have considered moving my sensor to that location. I'm still fine-tuning my setup. But it works as I have it now - just might not be the most efficient.

 

[Dustinicus]

I have an aftermaket temp gauge im installing, so once i get the switch installed for the fan I should be able to use a resistor to fine tune the temperature it kicks on at. Or move it...
Good suggestions

-Dustin

 

[Diesel Mechanic]

As long as it keeps your engine at the temp range you want it and doesn't run all the time, mount it any way you want. There is no right and wrong way to make it your.


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[Ranger SVO]

Just do what I did, use an after market controller

Mine is a Flex-a-Lite and its been trouble free for many years

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessories/electric-fan-controllers.html