Electric Fan Installation Issue

[BroncoIIGirl]

We recently installed a Taurus 2 speed electric fan into my 1988 Bronco II 2.9L w/ fresh World heads. It also has a Failsafe 180 degree thermostat. From what I have read they have a factory 195 degree thermostat, but I thought with the overheating issues they are known for that the 180 degree thermostat would be better. I used a 210 degree thermostatic switch to activate the electric fan and the fan is set to turn off when the coolant reaches 195 degrees. I've double checked my wiring for the relay and everything looks good. Here's the problem: I had it idling and the thermostat is opening around "N" on the word normal on the temperature gauge. I feel that it should be opening about when the gauge reaches halfway. I'm sure you all know that the "N" on normal is almost to the "H" on the gauge. Since I have a thermostat that is supposed to open 15 degrees cooler than the factory, I think it should definitely be opening around halfway. I haven't even let it run to the point where the fan kicks on because I don't want to overheat it. Do you guys think that my temperature gauge is messed up? The gauge is working, it's not getting stuck or anything, could it just be reading incorrectly? I'm assuming the temperature sensor is working correctly since the gauge is working. Do you think the 210 degree thermostatic switch is a good temperature? Or do you think it's too hot? I figured it's only 15 degrees hotter than when the factory thermostat opens, so I thought it would work fine. I'm at a loss as to what to do and this is the LAST step before it's ready to drive. I'm pulling my hair out over here! lol. Please give me some advice on what you think. Oh, btw I know I can just put a clutch fan in, but I've come this far and I just want to finish the electric fan install, so if what you have to say is "Put a clutch fan in" save your breath please. Thanks!

 

[Earl43P]

Just drive it already.

That factory gage is notoriously "off", really just an advisory.
Even on the newer models, when I run the ScangageII and watch coolant temp, I'll see a 15 degree swing on the scangage and the factory gage barely moves.

If you're THAT worried about it, add an aftermarket coolant temp gage and/or set the fan switch to come on at a lower temp.

 

[Tominator]

The 2 Speed Taurus fan requires two separate circuits for 2 speed operation. Both cannot be activated at the same time or you'll burn up the fan. You mentioned one relay...so thus the question of how you have it wired?

 

[--weezl--]

Just drive it already.

That factory gage is notoriously "off", really just an advisory.
Even on the newer models, when I run the ScangageII and watch coolant temp, I'll see a 15 degree swing on the scangage and the factory gage barely moves.

If you're THAT worried about it, add an aftermarket coolant temp gage and/or set the fan switch to come on at a lower temp.

actually, mine is even worse than that, after doing exactly what you did, i watched my needle, it basically has 5 prepositioned areas, and if it's in a range, the needle sits at each area, cold, cold normal, normal, hot normal, overheating... i can't remember the exact numbers, but at say 105*c it's sitting in the middle of the normal area, (which is actually hot for my truck) then 106, it will jump right to the top end of the normal area, almost to overheating, sit there for another 5* or so, then bam, overheating

again, with my scangauge type deal, my truck LOVES to run around 96* celcius, up to about 99 on the highway on a hot day (205-210 F) being that is "normal" i would tihnk that the fan doesn't need to be on in those ranges, 210 seems reasonable for the fan to kick on to me... keep in mind also, there is no use having your fan running at a "normal" temperature, when you are going down the highway, the 60mph wind through your grill is going to do way more cooling than any fan you can fit under the hood, will

fans are designed for low speed and stopped cooling

 

[BroncoIIGirl]

The 2 Speed Taurus fan requires two separate circuits for 2 speed operation. Both cannot be activated at the same time or you'll burn up the fan. You mentioned one relay...so thus the question of how you have it wired?

We're not using the 2 speed operation. It's just wired up for 1 speed.

 

[76spit]

Get a meat thermometer, open radiator cap. Insert and warm up truck to check/verify temps on gauge. (also when thermostat is opening)

 

[--weezl--]

Get a meat thermometer, open radiator cap. Insert and warm up truck to check/verify temps on gauge. (also when thermostat is opening)

except the gauge on the dash is going to measure the temp inside the block, not the temp after the coolant has passed through the radiator, and is as cold as it's going to get

 

[76spit]

The temp on a thermometer in the radiator will continue to rise until the thermostat opens and coolant begins to flow. You can get a basic idea of what the temp is on your gauge up till that point which at least some helpful information as compared to none. When the water first starts to flow as the thermostat opens it should be pretty darn close temp wise between the block and the rad. Obviously not an exact science, but again, somewhat useful information.

 

[--weezl--]

Infra rad thermometer pointed at the tstat housing would be much more effective, and they can be bought for quite cheap now a days


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