ECT Temperature Pigtail Adapter

[Chapap]

I want to replace my brand new ECT sensor with a motorcraft cause that’s GOT to fix everything. The motorcraft sensor has a square connector and stock on the truck is round. I can’t seem to find a male (like on the sensor itself) round pigtail. There’s plenty of female (engine side) but no male.

1994 2.3L but I’m sure it’s shared with others

 

[holyford86]

sounds like you got the wrong replacement sensor, EEC-IV trucks all use a round two pin plug.

 

[Chapap]

sounds like you got the wrong replacement sensor, EEC-IV trucks all use a round two pin plug.

Every auto store, website, and the dealer show this square connector as correct, but only the motorcraft brand has it. Seems like Ford changed it at some point and discontinued the round connector.

 

[RobbieD]

Have you checked with a Ford dealership? Ford supposedly has pigtail connectors for repairs. Does this one look like what you're needing?

If not, post a good pic of what you're needing to plug into, and I'll see if there's a match in the catalog I have.

 

[Chapap]

Below is a picture of what I purchased. This is the only motorcraft option. Some aftermarket sensors on RA have this connector too.

Below is a sensor that that car wants to see. This Is the connector that I need to solder to the one in the previous kit to make an adaptor. I cannot find a motorcraft sensor with this plug on it.

Below is what is on the vehicle. There are plenty of these out there, but I need the other side.

I currently have a CEL because the sensor is disconnected. That’s a good sign. I’m going to drive around to see how the car acts when it gets hot. Then I will jurryrig the motorcraft connector into the trucks connector to see if it acts like it’s supposed to. If it doesn’t act any better than when the aftermarket sensor was in, I think I’ll drop the issue and put the aftermarket sensor back in. The aftermarket sensor is an Ultra-Power for $3.38 if you think that’s actually the issue.

 

[RobbieD]

OK, I got a better idea of what you're wanting to do- an adapter harness.

I looked at all of the 2-pin pigtails in the catalog, and I'm sorry but I don't see a match for the sensor side.

I do know that Ford will drop an older design component and their replacement part requires a newer style connector. I know on one of my own trucks I've had to bite the bullet, and solder in a newer pigtail in order to use a replacement EGR sensor.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I don't know how adventurous I would get changing sensors that have different connectors, when they change connectors they usually change the temperature to resistance values of the sensors which could get you backwards in your quest for runability...

 

[Chapap]

Well I still have the same problems so I’m not going to worry with changing the connector. I did wind up damaging the old sensor during removal, so I ordered a Delphi with the correct connector.

And just to reiterate my problem for the 93rd time on the forum… I intermittently get running rich at part throttle code when the engine gets to operating temp. I also get bad detonation at idle that sounds like a bad knock (hope not the other way around). Exhaust smells bad too like it’s missing a cyl. Runs perfectly when cold. Every sensor is new. Can’t imagine what’s wrong at this point. Was hoping it was a bad temp sensor that never cued the computer to shut off the “choke.”

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Well I still have the same problems so I’m not going to worry with changing the connector. I did wind up damaging the old sensor during removal, so I ordered a Delphi with the correct connector.

And just to reiterate my problem for the 93rd time on the forum… I intermittently get running rich at part throttle code when the engine gets to operating temp. I also get bad detonation at idle that sounds like a bad knock (hope not the other way around). Exhaust smells bad too like it’s missing a cyl. Runs perfectly when cold. Every sensor is new. Can’t imagine what’s wrong at this point. Was hoping it was a bad temp sensor that never cued the computer to shut off the “choke.”

Have you considered a bad computer?

 

[Chapap]

Have you considered a bad computer?

Not really. That has crossed my mind, but you are the first to bring it up. I was under the impression that computer failures would manifest in a much more dramatic manner.

 

[holyford86]

I haven't seen many ford coolant temp sensors fail, testing the sensor against a resistance chart would tell you if it was bad. you may be lucky and your EEC may support basic live data, if you had access to an old snap on brick that would also tell you if sensor was bad. Computer failures are becoming a bit more common and they manifest themselves in a few different ways, it's usually the electrolytic capacitors on the board leaking or going bad that cause the issues, they're cheap and easy to replace if you're mildly proficient at soldering.

 

[black_demon69]

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

You might just need this

 

[Chapap]

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

You might just need this

Already replaced that, sensor, and valve. MAF and intake temp sens too.

Edit: Ignition control module is a thing too. Doesn’t quite fit my symptoms I think tho.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Being a '94, there is a very remote possibility that engine has a cam sensor... If you look down where a distributor would be (behind the power steering pump on the block roughly just under the #1 intake runner) there should be a distributor clamp holding in a dealy, normally on the early DIS engines it's just a dummy to drive the oil pump but on some California trucks there was a cam sensor in there like on the end of run 5.0L's and probably some 4.0L's... as far as how to check the adjustment I have no idea, I just know some had them...

 

[Chapap]

Being a '94, there is a very remote possibility that engine has a cam sensor... If you look down where a distributor would be (behind the power steering pump on the block roughly just under the #1 intake runner) there should be a distributor clamp holding in a dealy, normally on the early DIS engines it's just a dummy to drive the oil pump but on some California trucks there was a cam sensor in there like on the end of run 5.0L's and probably some 4.0L's... as far as how to check the adjustment I have no idea, I just know some had them...

Fortunately Those are just on Cali trucks. Mine’s just an idler wheel. Doesn’t even drive the oil pump.