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Ebay headers?


MaicoDoug

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Messages
761
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
2007
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
Leveled out +1 inch at the front
Tire Size
33 x 12.5 x R15 Baja Boss MT
My credo
For every door that closes another one opens for you to lead others always when you least expect it!
Saw this the other day, regardless of the quality for the price how can anyone go wrong. There is a video of some kids installing these saying that they had issues with the stock exhaust interface at the "donut" gasket. It's a little roadkill style. Header install video. What's your take? Do headers on the 4.0 dog really make a difference, I know mine runs pretty good, but the exhaust system is up for replacement within the next year or so. I've installed "tubes" before & realize that there may be clearance problems. So with some small high flow cheap cats, a couple new O2 sensors, some welding, maybe a trip to my muffler shop. Was never into anything V6, just V8s. Carblubberated.


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It all depends on your personal ideals. For me, I prefer going with a known name brand.

I will also say this. People talk about buying ebay parts, implying that all ebay parts are a partucular quality or originate from a certain counyry or whatever. Ebay is not a manufacturer. It is a marketplace. You can buy name brand items on ebay and you can buy low quality junk on ebay originating from places of dubious reputation. So, buying "ebay parts" doesn't really mean anything without a bit of further definition in each instance.
 
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it takes work too make impressive na power with a ohv 4.0. they are low rpm.

even the cammer is meh. but definitely in mustang trim can be more then enough for most rangers.

great torque curve though ...


i do think you will be ok with the purchase if the system is due for replacement. with aftermarket efi wringing every bit of power out of it is easier....just less efficient.
 
Headers to me are like sun roofs...

You have the ones that leak...

You also have ones that are about to leak.
 
Headers on a stock motor does not produce must of anything. You would be better off getting a highflow cat-back and a cold air intake. If you ported your heads, then headers would be a nice upgrade.
 
The only time my headers never leaked at all ever, were when I broke off a bolt on an '85 Chevy 454 with cast iron manifolds, after I pulled out the fender well & I laid on the upper A arm drilling and re-tapping the 3/8 x 16 holes, and decided to do the remaining 7 holes. That side never ever leaked. So...I learned something. Go with good quality parts, (Headman) and do little things that can make a big difference down the road. I should of re tapped the other side, becaused that side leaked ~

I guess at some point in the near future I need to climb under there & look around again. Who knows. Currently it leaks water from a flange connection point mid way down. The original rusty tailpipe is showing it's age. This truck was located on the coast at Galveston, the rust has been a chore to tackle with the exhaust system being the next project besides the radiator support being close behind.

Working on stainless will give the TIG machine some work. Longer collectors to consider for torque. May need to use for a straight jig bolted up to keep the flange straight while doing any mods with a torch which will be the first thing I'd check out of the box anyway. Need to maintain the torque.
 
definitely old school flat flange classic headers suck and leak....



good headers do not leak. until they crack. just like any other manifolds.

i had a set of cobra r 351 headers for nearly 1/2 million miles. went on three engines of mine and are probably out there somewhere today.

the sn95 302 factory headers are decent in life as well... better then explorer manifolds.






as to the 4.0, the mustang stuff is a bit different...they have egr tubes in the front. different intake and cam phasers ect iirc. there was a younger guy a few years ago running around here with a mustang 4.0 transplant with modified dynomax exhaust system he robbed from a hopped up wrecked 4.0 stang. it was a 2wd ranger edge....had a nice x pipe.... i dont remember what the specific details of the hassles were, but there was quite a bit of work to get it into his 2wd edge. it could run low 14 constant and had hit 13.8s. in automatic form. i was impressed. the motor mounts and intake/exhaust plumbing were the biggest difference but something else in the fead was also an issue and the oil filter.

i was surprised as it is essentially an explorer/ranger engine.

but those come with a header from ford. if you can snag a set of those for next to nothing and the mustang hardware it may be worth a try. but the stuff you posted is pretty cheap and like i said before.... just try em out.
 
on old flange style headers, cut the flange between ports, each port will seal better as the flange warps making it difficult to seal the ports.
 
I say get them. I have bought the cheapest ebay headers for old jeeps and they were great.

I want to get some for the ranger of doom but other than a fan clutch, amd an alternator (i think i did the alternator) i have never had to work on this engine. Everything i have done to this truck is just stuff i wanted to do for the heck of it
 
I've never had an issue with ebay headers, currently running a 100$ special on my '96.

I HAVE however.. had problems with 750$ headers made in the USA 🤷‍♀️

This reminds me... I gotta re-torque the header on the '96. It's seen enough heat cycles by now.
 
Just be careful if you about the equal length headers. I have a set on my 2004, and they run so close to other parts that I had to insulate the area or move wires and hoses.
 
I was under there with my visioning glasses, and yes. Everything is very tight. I'm used to big block GM & Mopar, SBC. The oil filter is the issue. Man, the cats are big. Believe perhaps they can be much smaller. Does have 4ea. O2 sensors however. Well thanks for all the replies.

One of the newer guys spoke of a broken stud and clearance drilling his manifold for an now offset bolt pattern due to the new hole being not 100% on top of the old stud, so clearance drilling a flange is easier than drilling a casting, and I found these options.

Question, do these keep the same power band, and/or any increase in power?
 
I was under there with my visioning glasses, and yes. Everything is very tight. I'm used to big block GM & Mopar, SBC. The oil filter is the issue. Man, the cats are big. Believe perhaps they can be much smaller. Does have 4ea. O2 sensors however. Well thanks for all the replies.

One of the newer guys spoke of a broken stud and clearance drilling his manifold for an now offset bolt pattern due to the new hole being not 100% on top of the old stud, so clearance drilling a flange is easier than drilling a casting, and I found these options.

Question, do these keep the same power band, and/or any increase in power?

More or less.. the longer the primaries are.. the more top end you'll get. Shorties are for torque.
 
long for tq
 

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