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Alright guys I did an E-fan conversion today. Took me about 3 hours from the time I lifted the hood to the time I parked the Ranger in the drive way after the test drive.
Alright first thing is first, the parts I used.
Summit 16" 2010 CFM electric fan
Wiring Kit w/ adj. thermostat
And here's what I did:
-Alright to start off, disconnect the positive terminal from the battery, duh.
-Do the wiring first, because if something comes up halfway through the install, then you just have some loose wires under the hood than can be quickly taped off. If you did the fan and THEN the wiring, well if you have to go somewhere you'll have a non-working fan in there. That's not good.
-Find a place to mount the wiring block relay thing. The screw that holds the support up for the little cluster of wires next to where the negative (-) battery terminal grounds to the chassis is where I chose to stick it. That puts you right next to a ground, and right next to the location where your probe is supposed to go. It's also helpful because it's a breeze to adjust the dial for the turn-on temperature.
-Black goes to the ground, great! the ground is right next to the block.
-The (pink-ish) red goes to the power, great! the battery is right there.
-Green goes to the A/C compressor for the A/C turn on. If you have a compressor with a two-wire harness like me, then the black wire with the yellow stripe is the one you want to splice into (the splice is included w/ the kit)
-Yellow goes to the ignition. The wire is just long enough to reach the power box so I just rednecked that thing in there with the fuse for the fuel pump, a line that's only active when the car is on (do you really want your fan running with your truck off?).
-Orange has the fuse built in, you are going to use this wire to send the power to your fan. You will connect it to the BLACK wire of the fan.
-The blue wire goes to a secondary fan, if you were to choose one. I just taped it off and put it to the side.
-The probe is to be mounted in the radiator as close to the coolant tube as possible. It cannot stick all the way through the radiator. I used a Phillips screw driver to create a little hole for it. Mount it how the included instructions tell you do it and it will be fine.
Alright now for the fan.
Getting the clutch fan out:
-Undo the two (10mm) bolts right there on top that holds up the fan shroud.
-Pull up on the shroud, undoing the two clips on the bottom that hold up the shroud down low. Keep those clips on there, don't lose them. You'll see why later.
-Rotate the shroud 45* so you can work your hands in there nice and good and stuff.
-Undo the four (10mm) bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch.
-Take out the fan.
-Rotate the pesky shroud back to its original position and then drop it as low as the fan clutch will let it go. This will give you MUCH easier access to the bolts that hold the fan clutch to the pulley.
-Undo the four (10mm) bolts that hold the clutch to the pully using a wrench. Don't think about trying to fit a socket in there, it won't fit... trust me. The only way to do this is the old-fashioned way, quarter turn, take off wrench, refit, quarter turn, ect. Thankfully these bolts will be able to be unscrewed by hand relatively quickly.
-With all four bolts off, pull the clutch out towards the radiator, and then it's out. Now be careful, that pulley is just sitting there unsecured with the belt's tension still on it.
-Take the shroud out. Don't try anything fancy, just wiggle it out straight up. You will rub the coolant tube more than you'll like but if done carefully enough then you'll have no worries.
-Now look at all that free space!!!
Look at the junk
Installing the fan:
-Tighten up the four bolts on that pulley like you would if you were putting a tire on a compact car with four lug nuts. Snug 'em up 1-3-2-4 and then tighten them up using the same sequence. If one of these bolts is loose, you'll feel it when you fire up the truck.
-SPin the pulley to make sure that that bolts do not hit anything. If you fire up your engine and here something very loud and displeasurable, this might be your culprit.
-This part rocks, remember those two clips at the bottom of the radiator that held up the fan shroud? It turns out that they are PERFECT for mounting the fan on. I had a big ol' grin on my face when I saw that I had two less holes i need to poke through the radiator.
-Summit gives you instructions on how to mount the fan using the clips provided, go by that and you'll be all good.
Wiring the fan to the kit:
-Contrary to just about every electronic in the world the BLACK wire is NOT the negative (-) (ground) wire. The black is in fact the POSITIVE (+) wire and you will connect that to the orange wire from the kit.
-Ground the BLUE wire.
-There will be a little bit of excess wire, so to save it from getting caught in something (your belt IS right there, you know) I just used the included zip-tie and tied it to the grill of the fan. It will not interfere with the fan blades.
DONE!!!
so one major problem with this setup. you have a 16" cooled circle, and hotspots in the rad now. you also want to run the stock shroud, and run waterproof relays as those will become corroded and fail at a inconvenient time.
Another problem is your probe is on the outlet for the rad. meaning the fan isnt going to turn on at the right temp as outside temps will vary the coolant temp before it hits the prode drastically.you need to run as close to the inlet as possible, so you get a consistant on and off temp from the probe. so if your probe is set for 190 turn on, and 175 off, and your coolant comes through at 190, but is 187 by the time it hits the exit, the fan wont turn on. Thus running the coolant at a higher temp until it goes over what you want, and the outlet to the motor is at 190. at this point the motor could be overheating from lack of cooling when the thermostat opens.
the concept is there, but thats going to be far from efficient. to keep your truck cool, that fan is going to be running often. thus adding strain to your alternator and in turn drawing the same amount of power the clutch fan drew. make the fan pull through your stock shroud, it will run less and be more effective. also move your temp probe to the inlet side of your rad, it will also help you out.
hope this info helps ya and newcomers to the E-fan craze. i know i love mine!
example of fan in factory shroud.
EDIT: i see your a 4cyl, disregard my probe comment. ill keep it there for other to read in case they dont realize. a little waterproofing and a shroud, your good to go!
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