Duraspark

[nightmare_82282]

I got an 84 2.8. I fallowed the Tech Library post on doing the Duraspark install. Everything went togather easy. I got a Holley 350cfm carb and a Accel Coil. I hit the key hopping for the SOB to fire right up so I can set the timing. Insteed I got nothing. After messing with it for a minute I noticed I had no spark. The hot going to the coil has 45volts going in to it some how. At this point I have no clue what could be making it that high. I need some help.

 

[The_Dealer]

mine was an 85 so i had to splice a few wires, but yours is an 84 supposed to be plug and play

copied and pasted from tech library

The (+) 'BAT' side of the Coil is the only place you have to splice into a wire. On the driver's fender well, there is another connector, square in shape and gray in color that has either a Brown wire with Pink markings or a Red wire with Light Green. These wires should be hot when the key is on. This wire needs to go to the (+) 'BAT' terminal on the ignition coil.

did u do that? are the coil wires hot when u turn the key?

also with a cannister non tfi style coil u need a ballast resister, my coil came with one, without it it will burn the coil up real quick

 

[nightmare_82282]

mine was an 85 so i had to splice a few wires, but yours is an 84 supposed to be plug and play

copied and pasted from tech library

The (+) 'BAT' side of the Coil is the only place you have to splice into a wire. On the driver's fender well, there is another connector, square in shape and gray in color that has either a Brown wire with Pink markings or a Red wire with Light Green. These wires should be hot when the key is on. This wire needs to go to the (+) 'BAT' terminal on the ignition coil.

did u do that? are the coil wires hot when u turn the key?

also with a cannister non tfi style coil u need a ballast resister, my coil came with one, without it it will burn the coil up real quick

Yaeh I did all that. Thae coil wire has power to it but when I hook up the amp tester it says 45volts.

 

[The_Dealer]

u have the tester on 0-20 volts or something like that? should be 9.something, try your stock coil. is your duraspark box working? u sure u have it connected right? mine had 2 duraspark style plugs

do u have any close ups of how the white and red wires are connected?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just checking you have the neg of the coil going to the green on the module. And is that a battery voltage coil or do you have a ballast resistor 9 in the hot to the coil. Do you get around 12.8 volts at the battery with the ignition off. IDK where you can get that high of voltage kinna crazy.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The 9 is a typo

 

[Shran]

No way do you have 45v going to your coil. 12v is enough to make it too hot to touch very quickly - your multimeter is wrong or on the wrong setting. Are you sure you're not actually getting 4.5 volts? If so that would explain your spark issue.

Where are you measuring from, the two wires that go to the coil?

 

[nightmare_82282]

Just checking you have the neg of the coil going to the green on the module. And is that a battery voltage coil or do you have a ballast resistor 9 in the hot to the coil. Do you get around 12.8 volts at the battery with the ignition off. IDK where you can get that high of voltage kinna crazy.

Correct (-) to green. It's a 12volt coil. Battery is at 12.77volts. I connected everything like http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.html

I have no idea how i'm getting 45 volts going into the coil. The only thing on this BII that puts out more the 12 volts is the Alternator. Maybe I got the wrong wire for the (+) on the coil. ??? hell if I konw.

 

[nightmare_82282]

No way do you have 45v going to your coil. 12v is enough to make it too hot to touch very quickly - your multimeter is wrong or on the wrong setting. Are you sure you're not actually getting 4.5 volts? If so that would explain your spark issue.

Where are you measuring from, the two wires that go to the coil?

I connected straight to the Battery, Digital Multimeter says 12.77volts. I connect it to the (+) side of the coil and ground to the enging and it says 45volts. That's why i'm asking for help. I can't figure this out. It's crazy as hell.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

disconnect the coil and the module then check the voltage to both you can always splice into the key on ignition wire on the module if it has battery voltage. Have you done a resistance check on the coil if you have battery voltage on the wire to the coil when disconnected. Also have you removed the computer harness. That is really strange to get that high of voltage from the ignition switch unless it is backfeeding from a transformer somewhere. Let us know what you figure out.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just noticed you have a aftermarket coil do you have a ballast resistor to the power to it you can use the stock coil as it runs off battery voltage.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Dude I`m sorr I didnt look at your pics close the green wire from the module goes to the negative terminal on the coil and the black wire you have on the terminal if it is ground you possibly fried your coil. The green wire from the module is the trigger signal and goes to the neg side of the coil not to ground. reverse them and see what you get.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

By the way nice clean job on the wiring and If you fried the coil just put the stock coil on it and see if the module is still good also I dont think that would have damaged it also IDK.

 

[nightmare_82282]

Dude I`m sorr I didnt look at your pics close the green wire from the module goes to the negative terminal on the coil and the black wire you have on the terminal if it is ground you possibly fried your coil. The green wire from the module is the trigger signal and goes to the neg side of the coil not to ground. reverse them and see what you get.

The Black wire is the green wire. I just made it longer with the black wire. Like how I mounted the coil. I used the stock coil mount and screws. I just grabbed some washers and thats it. The red(+) wire is spliced into a wire on the fender wall.

 

[nightmare_82282]

By the way nice clean job on the wiring and If you fried the coil just put the stock coil on it and see if the module is still good also I dont think that would have damaged it also IDK.

I will try the stock coil. Do you happen to know witch side of the stock coil is hot? I don't have the connector for it any more.