duraspark question

[Hotrodlincoln]

You need a gasket on each side of the spacer. It will not seal by itself.

84 is plug and play pretty much. All you really need to do is plug in the red/white to the white/red. No butchering of the stock harness needed. (Except for trimming the "fat", the unnecessary wires that aren't needed after the conversion.)

The easiest thing to do for the coil is to use the stock one. The wiring diagrams in the tech section show which wires goes to plus (I think it's red w/green) and which goes to the negative.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If the carb has a good flat base you just need to snug it down evenly the new spacer has a gasket on both sides. I used a flat piece of plywood and glued a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to it and surfaced the carb base good and flat first. Do it slow and even not to gouge it. Clean the egr spacer good before you put the plastic one on there and if you have doubts on the carb you can also put another carb gasket in between I just made one to fit the carb just make sure the venturi holes are slightly larger than the carb. Once you get it running take a length of vacuum hose and put one end up to your ear and stick the other end in the carb so you know what to listen for and go around all the gaskets and fittings and listen for leaks be careful of moving parts. You can isolate/pinpoint exhaust leaks that way also. I tape`d a piece of soft wire to it to reach hard to get at places also. GL

 

[schmoo]

i got one of those spacers- it looks identical to the one
that was on there.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Look closer it is not indented where the TPS used to be, huge vacuum leak on bottom of non feedback carb.

 

[SR185]

i got one of those spacers- it looks identical to the one
that was on there.

I thought the exact same thing. I went ahead and replaced the old one with the new, but looking at them side by side, I could barely see a difference.

 

[atkinson]

hello,

well this weekend i finished up the conversion and when we started the truck up i noctice the brake light on and really did not have brakes so after finding where the leak was i installed new line and cant seem to get all the air out. when the truck is off it seem like the padel would get hard but as soon as you start the truck the pedel gos staight to the floor anyone have any ideas on that one, oh and there is a vacuum line from the tranny do i plug that into the vacuum tree? when bleeding the brakes i do the passenger rear, driver side rear then front passenger and front drivers.

thanks

Dave

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do you have the brake booster hose connected from the manifold tree is that the line your talking about. It sounds like you need to bleed the brakes good. With the engine running you need someone to help start at the rear brakes and make sure all the bleeders are closed front and back it helps to put a piece of vacuum hose on the bleeder valve and dump the old fluid in a can. Make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid have them pump the pedal three times and then hold it down then open the valve to release any air then close the valve then have them pump it up again and then hold again repeat that process until you get all the air out. so pump and hold the pedal down until you close the bleeder valve. Keep you master full of fluid and have them pump slow so you dont squirt fluid all over the engine compartment or just keep putting the cover on. If the master starts sucking air you have to start over. start with the furthest from the master RR- LR -RF-LF. If the light is still on after you get the pedal good and hard you need to balance the warning switch to do that you use the same process pump the pedal hard and there are two lines coming out of the master pump and hold the pedal and take a fitting wrench and crack one of the lines coming out do not release the pedal or it will suck air just let it run slow and watch the light do that one side then the other as soon as the light goes off tighten the fitting. Then check it again do it until the light stays off. Anyway hows the engine running you get the bugs worked out yet sounds like ur getting close let us know either way.

 

[atkinson]

kimcrwbr1,

truck runs awesome and cant wait to take a drive but these brakes are kicking my it sounds like i have a vacuum leak and i cant find it, the carb is brand new 350 cfm holley and we used the stock spacer that was on the manifold and it looks like there are holes on the passenger side that are open but how can that be? did the stock carb cover them holes? the brake boster is hooked up to the tree but there is one left from the tranny does that go to the tree or carb? i actually hooked it up to the tree and it sounded louder. does a vacuum leak have anything to do with the brakes not being able to bleed, they seem good untill you start the engine then the pedel gos to the floor i have all the open ports on the tree pluged.

Dave

 

[kimcrwbr1]

spacer felpro # 60529 will fix any vac leak on the bottom of the carb you cannot use the old spacer it will not seal especially on a used carb. I surfaced the bottom of my carb with 180 grit sand paper glued to a flat piece of plywood and slowly surfaced it you will see the high spots go away when it is evenly shiny just dont gouge it. not sure on the brake thing maybe the check valve where it plugs into the booster is bad but I would fix the obvious vac leaks first. Do you have access to a vacuum guage you want between 17 and 20 inches in hg at an idle. Maybe the vacuum is too low for the booster to work correct. I say get the engine vacuum up to snuff first maybe it will fix the brakes. The new spacer has gaskets on both sides and I made one for the carb side just make sure the egr spacer surface is good and clean before you put the spacer on. In my case it was $18 well spent. and yes the tranny vacuum goes to the engine vacuum on the tree. Does the carb come with ported vacum nipples just plug them also.

 

[SR185]

I got the Felpro spacer #60529. I have the Felpro spacer sitting on a thin gasket, and I have the new carb's gasket on top of the spacer.

Are you saying these gaskets aren't needed with the Felpro #60529? My spacer is hard and I don't see how it would seal without gaskets.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The gaskets on the spacer are kinna hard yea you can put the other gaskets with it especially with a rebuilt carb if it has not been surfaced on the bottom of the carb snug the nuts down slow and even. Then retorque it after a couple of warm ups when the engine is cold.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

we used the stock spacer that was on the manifold and it looks like there are holes on the passenger side that are open but how can that be? did the stock carb cover them holes?

The stock spacer has a cutout in the passenger side for the throttle position sensor on the stock carb. You need a new spacer that doesn't have that cutout to fit the new carb. It's the one I linked to earlier.

I got the Felpro spacer #60529. I have the Felpro spacer sitting on a thin gasket, and I have the new carb's gasket on top of the spacer.

That's the right way.

I usually rub motor oil into the gaskets before installation to help soften them so they conform better to the surface. This also helps when removing, it prevents the paper gasket from "burning" onto the surface.

 

[atkinson]

ok everyone,

first off the brakes....needed a new master cylinder so now i am good there. found the vacuum leak it was on the under part of the vacuum tree, i thought i had them all pluged off but i found a hose about 2 1/2 inches long so it was hard to see that it wasnt going anywhere. now i need my neighbor to tune the carb again because he did it with that leak and now that it is closed it idles a little to low but still runs good. there is the vacuum hose left and is coming from the tranny... does that vacuum hose go to the vacuum tree? thanks again

Dave

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yes that is for the shift modulator it will shift rough without it. To adjust the carb turn the air fuel needles out until you get the highest idle/vac then back in until it starts to drop you can use a tech or a vacuum guage. Once you get it idleing good turn it off and check it by counting the turns for both sides first in then out so you keep the adjustment. They should be within 1/2 turn between them. Mine runs the best at 12 dbtdc on the timing but they are all a little different so recap check the timing adjust the idle air then idle speed do this all after it is up to temp and the choke is all the way open the after it is cold adjust he high idle and pull off for the choke. I cant remember what carb you have if it is a autolite/motorcraft make sure the preheater tube fitting is plugged that is another hard to locate vacuum leak it is the fitting on the choke housing going back at a 45 degree angle you just use the same cap as for the fuel pressure on a fuel rail just cap it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I forgot always disconnect the vacuum to the dizzy and plug the hose going to it when timing it then plug it back in to adjust the carb and you should have around 37 degrees around 3000 rpm for the timing. I set mine to where it almost pings when step on it going around 60 mph the farthest advance possible is what ford engines like and you will know by the fuel mileage so just play with it until you get it where you want it.