Duraspark conversion.

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Just looking at the pic, I dont have personal experience, but....

1) the kickdown isnt activated until full open throttle. So full open throttle the adjustment screw comes into play.
2) the ball can be swapped out.
3) a little push from the cable is good to help keep the throttle fully closed. Just pull the cable back a bit until it snaps over the ball.

 

[Bronco648]

2) the ball can be swapped out.

Any idea who might have a different one? I don't have any junkyards with 'inventory', near me. Perhaps, an item to be found at a good hardware store?

 

[franklin2]

^^ What he said. You are supposed to have to push back against the spring to snap the ball in place. That keeps pressure on the throttle to keep it completely closed, unless you press it with your foot.

 

[franklin2]

So, @ 1.4 Ohms am I OK with the NAPA coil or should I go with the Accel coil and in-line resistor (kinda lost now)?

Buy the coil made for the duraspark II and the special horsehoe connector for it, they sell those also. Find yourself a resistor and put it inline with the coil + wire.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Any idea who might have a different one? I don't have any junkyards with 'inventory', near me. Perhaps, an item to be found at a good hardware store?

I Have lots of junk carbs. I should maybe stop hoarding...
I would try at the auto parts store. They usually have a carousel With "Help" branded products. I bet that's where you would find one. If not, ask at the counter. Ask an old guy

 

[19Walt93]

So, @ 1.4 Ohms am I OK with the NAPA coil or should I go with the Accel coil and in-line resistor (kinda lost now)?

I've had one of those Accel coils on my 77 Mustang for over 30 years with no problems- but it still has the factory resistance wire. I think you'd be OK with the external resistor. When I converted the 351 in my 93 Ranger to Duraspark, I used a stock coil and connector( that I had) because it was a cleaner looking installation.
Also- Holley sells a kit with 4 throttle studs of different sizes for cheap. Reusing a factory one will take some fabrication because they are staked in place.
The kick down rod should be adjusted once the carb is bolted in place. You want it to be just about bottomed out at WOT but not tight enough to bind.

 

[Bronco648]

I Have lots of junk carbs. I should maybe stop hoarding...

I would try at the auto parts store. They usually have a carousel With "Help" branded products. I bet that's where you would find one. If not, ask at the counter. Ask an old guy

The HELP section at my AutoZone was a bust but the guy at the counter pointed me in the direction of their "carburetor" section. Strike Two. At least he knew what I was asking for and what a carburetor was. The Old Guy that works there is a ...... dork.

Amazon to the rescue. $12 & change for the Holley kit.

 

[19Walt93]

The folks at Autozoo generally couldn't find their backside with both hands.

 

[Tym]

I’m rounding up the parts for the Duraspark conversion on an ‘84 Bronco II. Quick question or three, (I’m still in the planning/theory stage) what is the distributor cap adapter for? Is it really necessary? Are the parts found on eBay what they claim to be or stay away from them?

 

[19Walt93]

I’m rounding up the parts for the Duraspark conversion on an ‘84 Bronco II. Quick question or three, (I’m still in the planning/theory stage) what is the distributor cap adapter for? Is it really necessary? Are the parts found on eBay what they claim to be or stay away from them?

Duraspark caps are 2 piece, the adapter fits on the distributor and the top section which contains all the contacts sits on the adapter. You need one unless you're using an early cap with female terminals. The Duraspark cap separates the contacts a little more to avoid cross fire.
Ebay is an electronic swap meet, some or most of the vendors are honest.

 

[Bronco648]

Vacuum Connections:

As I look at the EGR spacer, vacuum tree and the carb, I see vacuum ports ALL OVER the place. Obviously, most will be capped off. I just want to be sure I'm not forgetting anything.

There are four things that require vacuum: PCV valve, brake booster, modulator on the transmission (A4LD) and the vacuum advance on the distributor. Did I miss/forget any?

There are two large ports on the 'tree' that are curved, one seems to be slightly larger than the other. Use that one for the brake booster?

 

[superj]

the booster will get a big one, but normally doesn't that line hook straight to its own nipple on the intake? pcv is also normally as large as the booster line so it would go to a larger connection too, right?

 

[Bronco648]

the booster will get a big one, but normally doesn't that line hook straight to its own nipple on the intake?

There are no vacuum connections on the intake manifold, at all. Every vacuum port is either on the EGR spacer (which includes the vacuum 'tree') or the carb.

pcv is also normally as large as the booster line so it would go to a larger connection too, right?

The PCV connects to the large brass port on the rear of the carb and is as large, or larger, than the brake booster port.

My Shop Manual and E&VTS manual shows the trans modulator and brake booster connecting to the vacuum 'tree'. The distributor's vacuum advance connects to the base of the carb on the passenger side, forward of the choke assembly.

I wanted to be sure I accounted for all of the vacuum connections (which I currently count as 4).

 

[franklin2]

Just be aware the original computer controlled carb does not have a proper ported vacuum port for the distributor. Well, it sort of does but it's capped off tight by the factory and was on the driver's side front of the original carb. I got it opened up and was able to use it for awhile. It seemed to run fine, but later on I bought a Chinese knock off 2100 2 bbl and using that my miles per gallon increased dramatically.

 

[Bronco648]

Thanks for the clarification. However, I've never had the original carb as the po planned to do the DS conversion. I did have to source a 2150 though.