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Dura-spark carb problems....


bsutton.5

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Messages
17
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Ok i did the dura-spark on my 85 and bought a new rebuilt carb off a 67 ford fairlane with a 289 in it.I put the carb on there and it will start if I pump the gas then it will die like it ran out of gas but if i keep pumping the gas it will run like 3-4 RPMs.but i cant get it to idle or anything.
 
Ok i did the dura-spark on my 85 and bought a new rebuilt carb off a 67 ford fairlane with a 289 in it.I put the carb on there and it will start if I pump the gas then it will die like it ran out of gas but if i keep pumping the gas it will run like 3-4 RPMs.but i cant get it to idle or anything.

did u block the choke heater vent off? sounds like a vacuum leak, does your carb have the 1.02 venturis and #50 jets?
 
I thought that it is suppose to have the 1.08 venturis and the #50 jets.

But from the sounds of it, looks like a vaccum leak probably around the bottom of the carb or the vaccum tree.

My dad and soon me too will be doing this to my truck, cant get good MPG's with our TBI set-ups and mine has finally made me mad to the point where I had to park my truck until I get all the stuff to do the Duraspark set-up.
 
You have to get a different phenolic spacer and gaskets to match the base of the carb. Otherwise you end up with a giant vacuum leak.
I think this is the right one. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...582_3496_0_1213&vehicleIdForService=106271241

Another thing to check is your idle needle adjustment. About 2 and a half turns out from stop is a good place to set them for initial starting. Play around with them until you get it to idle. It helps a TON when doing this to have a hand held start switch.
 
You have to get a different phenolic spacer and gaskets to match the base of the carb. Otherwise you end up with a giant vacuum leak.
I think this is the right one. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...582_3496_0_1213&vehicleIdForService=106271241

Another thing to check is your idle needle adjustment. About 2 and a half turns out from stop is a good place to set them for initial starting. Play around with them until you get it to idle. It helps a TON when doing this to have a hand held start switch.

Yes that is the correct spacer and you can use a A/C fitting to plug the vacuum leak for the choke heater it is the same size as is used on service ports on for home A/C outdoor units.
 
Oh yea 1.08 is the correct size venturi but if you have the 1.02 you will probably be ok. If you have the 1.02 venturi give it a shot and let us know how it works out. I have the 1.08 with #46 jets and it works just fine I never go red line anyway so not too worried about running lean on WOT. It pulls a pass just fine for a 2.8.
 
1967 was back when if it didn't smoke too bad it was good to go... so I doubt it has the small venturi's.

I have a early '70's 2100 on my Ranger, it runs great but also won't idle worth a crap... I think it just can't keep enough air moving thru the thing fast enough.

On the flipside, in the performance dark ages of the late 70's and early 80's 302's sported the 1.08 2150 carburetor, I got one with my '78 LTD 302.
 
Picked one up today from the JY for $25 for my dads Duraspark conversion off a late 70's Fairmont with a 255 v-8. Cant find any numbers on it saying what size the venturi is but I think we will be ok. It just needs a good rebuilding but all the parts move smoothly.
 
Picked one up today from the JY for $25 for my dads Duraspark conversion off a late 70's Fairmont with a 255 v-8. Cant find any numbers on it saying what size the venturi is but I think we will be ok. It just needs a good rebuilding but all the parts move smoothly.

It is on the same side of the throttle lever behind the accelerator pump linkage on the float bowl and you can use your jets out of the feedback carb #50s. I used a piece of sandpaper glued to a piece of plywood to surface the bottom of the carb. Is there a metal tag with a ford part number on it will get you the right kit and tell you the year D7 is 1977 e7 is 87. Just dont take the butterflys apart and check the throttle shaft for slop up and down if it wiggles alot it is a direct vacuum leak. If it has the vacuum pull off on the back of it it is a 2150 if not it is a 2100 either way still a good carb just get a cap for the choke pre heater tube another vacuum leak.
 
After futher looking on it, its a motorcraft 1250 and for what we found on autozones website, the 255 was first put in these cars in 1980 plus the rebuild kit we found was the one for this carb, had the ID tag on it still and matches what the rebuild kit is made for. Tomorrow my dad is ordering the rebulid kit and after we get that rebuilt I'm making a build thread on how to do this type of swap, I havent seen anybody do one with pictures.
 
What was the part number if it works that would be another option for future durasparkies. And is it a 1.08 I always wonder if the 1.02 venturi carb will work with this setup.
 
What was the part number if it works that would be another option for future durasparkies. And is it a 1.08 I always wonder if the 1.02 venturi carb will work with this setup.

did this work the yellw scribble is where you find the venturi stamp
 
After futher looking on it, its a motorcraft 1250 and for what we found on autozones website, the 255 was first put in these cars in 1980 plus the rebuild kit we found was the one for this carb, had the ID tag on it still and matches what the rebuild kit is made for. Tomorrow my dad is ordering the rebulid kit and after we get that rebuilt I'm making a build thread on how to do this type of swap, I havent seen anybody do one with pictures.

That would be great. :icon_thumby:

I am still on the fence if my 2.8 is worth another $20 carb kit...
 
the carb i am experimenting with is a 1.01
venturi 2100 from a 64 comet 260. the
rebuild kit referred to it as an F2.
it runs good and gets good gas mileage,
but the choke needs work. i put the electric
thermostat from the 2150 on it.
 
the carb i am experimenting with is a 1.01
venturi 2100 from a 64 comet 260. the
rebuild kit referred to it as an F2.
it runs good and gets good gas mileage,
but the choke needs work. i put the electric
thermostat from the 2150 on it.

What size jets are in it the 1.08 will work on a 302 and has alot more displacement I cant see why the 1.01 wont work as long as it is jetted proper. I have my choke wired to the power from the computer so it is switched from the ignition but you can use the terminal on the alternator that only has power when the engine is running it puts out around 8 volts. I havent had to deal with a choke without the vacuum pull off I would imagine there is some way it opens the choke a little after it starts so it dont flood or adjust it so it dont close all the way I dunno you can always put a manual choke on it tho.
 

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