Dropping the gas tank

[WisdoM]

I didnt even need to take my bed all the way off to mess with the pump....I just slid it back on some wood

 

[trader007]

you know, i never thought of removing the bed to do the fuel pump, but not having to remove or mess with the fuel lines is damn attractive. those fuel lines can sometimes take longer then the whole job itself... i think ill try the bed removal thing when it comes time.

 

[Hellcat]

DAMN !!!
I wish I would have thought of that. Sliding the bed back would have made this job MUCH easier.

 

[racsan]

i used a tractor with forklift forks on the bucket to pull my box. i did have quite a time getting the bed bolts out. wire wheel them good and go heavy on the anti-seize when you re-assemble.

 

[Ollie Octopus]

Changing the fuel pump in a 1993 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4

Changing the fuel pump in a 1993 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4

I have done this twice. The first time by removing the tank, and the second time by moving the bed back enough to get at the pump. Never will I ever try to remove the tank again. SAVE YOURSELF A LOT OF GRIEF BY BUYING A FUEL PUMP TEST GAUGE AND TESTING IT FIRST! It should be reading about 30 psi while running, but mine was reading 20 psi and needed to be replaced. ALSO, CHECK THE FUEL PUMP RELAY AND THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR BEFORE REPLACING THE PUMP. ALWAYS REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER.

Remove the tank method

Remove the three screws inside of the filler door (9/32 socket). Make sure that your truck is up on ramps or jack stands or you will not have room to remove the skid plate. There are five bolts holding it on (a 13 mm socket fits). The skid plate must weigh 10,000 lbs. or at least it seems like it. The tank is held on by straps and three bolts (also 13 mm socket). I used some wire to keep the tank from falling down after the three bolts were removed. The tank is not that heavy, but it has to be drained before you tackle this job. I got a siphon hose outfit with a squeeze bulb at an auto parts store for less than $ 5.00. I used an inspection mirror as you can not drop the tank enough to see the plug and the hose connections on top of the tank. You have to go by feel which is okay if you are with your girlfriend, but not with a gas tank. The plug to the sending unit pulls straight up. The fuel line connectors to the pump on the 1993 Ranger are not the spring-loaded type, but rather the type that uses "U" shaped plastic retainers that have to be pulled out, useing a small flat blade screwdriver, to remove the hoses. The same arrangement is used on the fuel filter, which should be changed first because that may be your original problem and you can see how the lines are connected to the filter. A new fuel pump will have new plastic retainers. The fuel tank filler attaches to the tank with a hose clamp (screw faces forward). When the tank is lowered, you can get at it (barely) with a very short screwdriver. The fuel line hoses are so short that the tank can't be lowered very much. Do not forget the strainer and new gasket for the fuel pump, new retainers for the fuel lines (the return line is a different size so you can't get them mixed up). Also, get some Dielectric grease for the plug if the new unit did not come with it. Reverse the procedure to install the tank. Then if you're like me, do it all over again because you didn't get a fuel line seated properly. Guys, you just can't see what you are doing. The skid plate is very heavy and I used a floor jack to help me reinstall it. Take the bed loose instead because you can get to, and see, all the connections.

Remove the bed method (actually just move the bed back a few feet)

First measure the distance the bed is from the cab on both sides. Mine was about one inch on both sides. Reinstall the bed the same way. Under the bed liner, you will find six bolts (Use a T55 Torx). Spray bolts under the bed with PB Blaster and let sit for at least an hour. These bolts probably are corroded and most likely will be very had to get out. A minimum of an impact driver, that kind that you hit with a hammer, is must. I read on the web of many guys breaking these bolts, which is a no-no to say the least. My impact driver only did the job on one bolt, so I got out my air compressor and impact wrench. That got them out without breaking any of them, but it was not easy. If you don't own an impact wrench and an air compressor, I would advise soaking them with PB Blaster and then going to a tire shop and have them at least loosen them up. Buy a T55 Torx that goes on a ½ inch socket wrench, and take it with you. The shop's impact wrench will be a ½" drive. They may not have one. The bed bolts are ½-13 x 4" in the back, but the front two bolts are
½-13 x 5". Unhook the wiring plug for the taillights and you can then slide the bed back to work on the fuel pump. I would also advise you to buy a ½-13 die and run the bolts through it before they are replaced. Mine were so bad in places that it was hard to re-thread them. Lubricate them before installation. Moving the bed is a breeze compared to trying to remove the tank.

 

[sholzy]

Remove the tank method

Remove the three screws inside of the filler door (9/32 socket). Make sure that your truck is up on ramps or jack stands or you will not have room to remove the skid plate. There are five bolts holding it on (a 13 mm socket fits). The skid plate must weigh 10,000 lbs. or at least it seems like it. The tank is held on by straps and three bolts (also 13 mm socket). I used some wire to keep the tank from falling down after the three bolts were removed. The tank is not that heavy, but it has to be drained before you tackle this job.

I also had to drop the drive shaft on my 93 2 wheel to make enough room to reach the strap bolts. If ever I need to do that job again I will try the bed removal method. It can't be anymore difficult than removing that @#$%&* tank just to replace the sending unit.