Drive shaft slip joint movement

[Mike92STX]

I have a 2004 Ranger FX4 and the drive shaft has some movement in it, is it possible to have it rebuilt or is replacing it the only option. If I have to replace it does anyone have one laying around?

 

[Jazzer]

Please describe what you mean by ‘movement’, and how you determined it.

Is it at the yoke where it fits into the transmission, or the u-joints?

 

[Curious Hound]

Please describe what you mean by ‘movement’, and how you determined it.

Is it at the yoke where it fits into the transmission, or the u-joints?

He mentioned slip joint in the title.

Of course the slip joint must slip. And there will be a tiny bit of lateral play necessary to accomplish that. There isn't much to rebuild though. If it's getting so sloppy that you think it will strip the splines or get hung up when it needs to slip, then new drive shaft is in order.

 

[Jazzer]

Sorry, missed that.

Mike, it should move in and out, that’s its function . If there’s a lot of rotational slop you’ll have to remove it and inspect both the male and female splines for wear.

If it’s dry there’s more chance of wear, it should be greased.

 

[Mike92STX]

Yes, I know it is supposed to move forward and backward on the shaft. I don't do a lot of highway driving but my son and I went to a swap meet Saturday, there is a section of highway where the speed limit is 70 and when I was doing 80 there was a slight noise and vibration, so I checked for u joints being bad but they were in good shape but the slip joint moves up and down what seems like a lot. I didn't want to cut the clamps off the boot covering the joint until I was sure I could repair the joint. My sons looked at it yesterday and agreed it was moving more than it should. I bought the truck with 256000 miles, and it has 262000 miles on it now. It had the cam chain guide rattle shortly after I got it so my sons suggested I get a remanufactured motor and they could do the swap in a weekend, so that's what I did at about 257000 miles. Rockauto wants $534 for a new drive shaft, I saw a guy on a ranger page on Facebook that is parting out a Ranger, he said he would take $300 including shipping, sounds tempting. What do you guys think?

 

[Brain75]

I read this and am dying for more info... in the main rear driveshaft the transmission rear seal hold the splined output shaft solidly centered... if the seal and the case are wollered out so bad you can move it with just your hands then there is no fluid in the trans and the trans is shot... but there is no boot on any I have seen - no that I have crawled under 4th and 5th gen yet.
If we are talking front shafts on a 4x4 there are a half dozen styles and I have no idea what 4th gens have, just haven't looked at or tore one apart yet and they are too new to be in the junkyard in any volume at all (haven't seen one yet, and the 5th gen I have to maintain is 2wd).

FWIW, the only way I could see the output shaft and driveshaft knuckle taking enough abuse to do that is if it was modified (lowered/replacement driveshaft/longer trans swapped in) so much that there is no slip left in the shaft and then driven like that putting a lot of impacts (every pothole) just powered into that joint. Is this a lowered truck or something else non-stock?

 

[Curious Hound]

I read this and am dying for more info... in the main rear driveshaft the transmission rear seal hold the splined output shaft solidly centered... if the seal and the case are wollered out so bad you can move it with just your hands then there is no fluid in the trans and the trans is shot... but there is no boot on any I have seen - no that I have crawled under 4th and 5th gen yet.
If we are talking front shafts on a 4x4 there are a half dozen styles and I have no idea what 4th gens have, just haven't looked at or tore one apart yet and they are too new to be in the junkyard in any volume at all (haven't seen one yet, and the 5th gen I have to maintain is 2wd).

FWIW, the only way I could see the output shaft and driveshaft knuckle taking enough abuse to do that is if it was modified (lowered/replacement driveshaft/longer trans swapped in) so much that there is no slip left in the shaft and then driven like that putting a lot of impacts (every pothole) just powered into that joint. Is this a lowered truck or something else non-stock?

Maybe his transmission/transfer case has a flange and the slip joint is part of the drive shaft. That's how my 93 is.

 

[JoshT]

2004 Ranger FX4

Is it at the yoke where it fits into the transmission, or the u-joints?

I read this and am dying for more info... in the main rear driveshaft the transmission rear seal hold the splined output shaft solidly centered... if the seal and the case are wollered out so bad you can move it with just your hands then there is no fluid in the trans and the trans is shot... but there is no boot on any I have seen - no that I have crawled under 4th and 5th gen yet.

Just want to point out that this is an FX4, so it's 4WD. They did not use a slip yoke at the rear of the transmission, they used a flange on the output of the transfer case.

The slip joint op is referring to is in the rear driveshaft between the u-joints. Should be just behind the front u-joint if the driveshaft is installed properly.

There was actually a Ford TSB for driveshaft ship joints back in the earlier '00s IIRC. The joint boot would tear allowing the grease to wash out, causing the driveshaft to clink when loaded and unloaded. Basically called for separating the joint, cleaning, filling with a special grease (Motorcraft XP8?) and installing new boot.

IMO, of it isn't making noise, causing vibrations, or other driveability issues, I'd just run it. If making noise try the grease thing. My 99 was doing the clunk when I got it on 05 with around 90k. Was going to try the grease thing, but never got around to it. Was still doing it just the same then I did the V8 swap last year at over 200k. Same driveshaft is still installed and would probably still do the clunk, but the AWD changes the way that the drivelines load up.

 

[Mike92STX]

Thank you, Josh T your explanation is a lot clearer than I could have done, I don't know if it was mentioned but the drive shaft is aluminum, I asked at a shop that rebuilds drive shafts, and I was told that aluminum drive shafts couldn't be rebuilt because aluminum can't be welded when it gets old, he explained why but I don't remember exactly, something about the aluminum changes so the welds don't hold like they should. I can get one from Rockauto for $630 shipped. I work part time at NAPA, so I have that option also, about the same as Rockauto. As I mentioned I work at NAPA and when I checked they said the aluminum drive shaft wouldn't work on the FX4 level 2 but it will work on my level 1, I'm wondering what the difference is in the drive shafts.

 

[SenorNoob]

I would bet either flange at the rear axle(31 spline vs 28 8.8), or length due to height differences.

 

[JoshT]

I'm almost certain that the Explorer 8.8, Ranger 31 spline 8.8, and Ranger 28 spline 8.8 all use the same driveshaft flange pattern.

The difference would almost have to be in the height difference, but it isn't that much of a difference. Pretty sure that people lift the normal 4x4 Rangers more than that difference without changing the driveshaft.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'm almost certain that the Explorer 8.8, Ranger 31 spline 8.8, and Ranger 28 spline 8.8 all use the same driveshaft flange pattern.

The difference would almost have to be in the height difference, but it isn't that much of a difference. Pretty sure that people lift the normal 4x4 Rangers more than that difference without changing the driveshaft.

I'm on a 6" lift with my original drive shaft. There are at least 3 different flanges, at least at the rear differential. One has the bolt holes spaced on a smaller diameter circle than the other. And the third is drilled for both patterns.

 

[JoshT]

There are at least 3 different flanges, at least at the rear differential. One has the bolt holes spaced on a smaller diameter circle than the other. And the third is drilled for both patterns.

I know, I should have clarified. The Explorer 8.8 and later model (98+ at least) Ranger 8.8s should all have the same flange.

The earlier Rangers (and maybe all 7.5" axles?) were the ones with the small patterns. Dealt with that looking for a shaft for my first gen. It was missing the driveshaft when I bought it. Found the right length from a 98-92 Ranger, but it wrong (larger) pattern. Had to locate a replacement yoke for it. For the axles that the OP is talking about they should all be the same.

 

[Mike92STX]

No real update, I can get a new drive shaft from NAPA for $534 plus tax. I'm putting it off a while because I have some other expenses, maybe when this month's SS check comes in.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Maybe check local junkyards or see if there’s a local driveline shop? If the slip joint is worn out, a driveline shop can replace it if the shaft is in decent condition and re-balance the assembly (you need to take it in with U-joints and flanges attached, they throw it on a lathe, cut the welds, weld a new piece in, spin it and add balance weights).