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Dorman shackle and bracket vs Ford OEM parts


If I recall correctly, my dad and I did his by tightening the top ones while in the air and ALL other bolts once it was on the ground.

DISCLAIMER: Been awhile (8 or 9 years), going from memory.

And no you don't want anything so tight it binds. Make sure you can move it in the shackle. If you're not sure, check the other side provided it's still original.

Thanks. I might back it off another 1/8 of a turn just to free it up a bit more. I was worried about it coming loose, but it really shouldn't since there aren't any forces that would loosen it and being a jam nut the vibrations won't be a problem either.
 
I think dad and I used nylock nuts on his - he used them on everything that he could. But like I said, it's been awhile.
 
Got it done, all good to go now. I can't believe how quiet my truck is now over bumps! Granted it was obviously rather noisy once the bracket broke and my leaf was banging off the bottom of the bed, but even before that there was a lot of creaking noises going over bumps etc. I think the old shackle/bracket was noisy due to being worn out and rusted. Also like I said, I greased the shaft of the two bolts that go through the shackle and that probably helps. I'll be doing the driver's side in a week or two before it breaks since it looks almost as bad as the passenger side did before it went.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
I have dorman on my ranger had my brace galvanized should last longer than the truck lol i love working in hot dip galv
 
I replaced both rear spring hangers and shackles with the Dorman parts from Autozone when everything rusted out. The ride was 100% improved. Glad I finally got it done.
 
Thanks. I might back it off another 1/8 of a turn just to free it up a bit more. I was worried about it coming loose, but it really shouldn't since there aren't any forces that would loosen it and being a jam nut the vibrations won't be a problem either.

Like others have pointed out, locking nuts (nylock or prob the all-steel kind for suspension work) would alleviate any worries of nuts working loose. Or some locktite. Saving that, you could just go old-school and hammer the ends of the bolts (to prevent nuts from falling off, but they could still work loose) or a well-placed chisel mark in front of the nut once you're SURE you have it where you want it.

Using loctite or marring treads, you can still use your GR8 nuts for greater peace of mind.

An interesting little read on keeping your nuts tite: :)
http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/142867_Keeping_Threaded_Fasteners_in_Their_Place.pdf
like most it is slanted towards threadlocker compounds
 
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