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Diy Cai?


Robin Hood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
292
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Automatic
Would making your own cold air intake work out well?

I'm talking about my friends 2000 Ranger 4.0...

Is it not cost effective and what do I do about the sensors after the stock filter box?
 
I don't have time to discuss this at length at the moment . . . but, are you aware that the car has a highly functional cold air intake already installed? If you are talking about the K&N model, read some of the other posts - specifically the one just above yours that goes into 5 pages.
 
Well me and my friend wanted to build one. Mainly because we have nothing to do.

I have plenty of time to discuss. So feel free to.
 
If you look at where the stock air intake draws from, you'll find it's from near the grille. This draws air from outside the truck, that is moving, and cold. Most aftermarket "cold air intakes" draw from under the hood, where the air is actually warmer due to the heat of the engine. And if he wheels at all, its much more likely for water to get splashed it into the filter vs. the stock location.

And as for the K&N filter, they're unnecessary. The stock filter flows plenty of air. I have one, only because the guy I bought my engine from gave it to me for free. The only cool thing about them is you just need to clean and re-oil them and you basically have a brand new filter. If you and your friend want to build something, build a snorkel. That will give you cold air for sure.
 
Oops - forgot about four wheeling.

I always forget the off road thing - I'm an old Trans Am/IMSA racer and such things didn't bother us. I have to agree with the Sunk - who sounds like he ought to know something about snorkels - wheeling with a cone funneling any available fluid - gaseous or liquid - into the filter box can't be a good idea. I've seen a post were the dude cut a hole into the area in front of the windshield and used PVC and dryer fittings - but the mudders around here would drown that too. Something sexy right up beside the windshield would look cool?

Let me stop right here and say this - the questions you have about the sensors and the fact that you are talking about your friends truck leads me to suggest you be real careful - you could loose a friend in the process of trying to entertain your bored self. (Do they not have girls where you two live?)

The most thing about building a cold air box - something I spent a lot of time trying to do with the help of a NASA engineer - is that it's sort of an exercise in futility. It is, that is, if what you are trying to do is improve on what the factory did or you are trying to improve horsepower. A lot of things that seem like they would work, won't

I'm currently running a temp gauge in my cold air box - stock one - just measuring temp differentials. The temp inside the box from a cold start will stay within two or three degrees of the outside air until you hit stop and go traffic or stop and let it heat soak. Remarkably, the air cools down very rapidly after the engine starts. It will stay within a few degrees of outside air for a long trip only rising when I hit heavily traveled freeways. You might enjoy trying this - I used the indoor/outdoor digital thermometer that was sitting on my kitchen table - measuring the temp by my pool. I believe it was under $20 at Walmart.

A running engine at between 60 -70 highway, at partial throttle draws, about 2 water column inches of vacuum. Coincidently, the pressure at the front of a Ranger doing 60-70 miles were hour is about 2 water column inches of pressure. The differential is quite low - just enough to work well. These tests were done last week on 75-90 degree days in Texas. The stock cold air box works well because is sits behind the headlight, which catches most of the bugs and spray on a wet day. The pressure on the front of the car, keeps relatively clear air on the front of the little cone that sticks into the CAI - thereby assuring good air flow.

I've done testing to try to raise the pressure inside a cold air box at speed. The problem is the constantly varying speed of a typical car or race car, the changing throttle position and therefore vacuum, head wind, tail wind, drafting, etc. Some have claimed to have accomplished this only on the top end. F1 cars in the 70's had a odd shaped box on top of the intake of the rear engine cars that claimed to do this. It sat way up high into the clean air stream. I've seen the same shape on a few blown drag cars. - all in all a pretty impractical shape for the street or off roading - in my opinion. And - this only worked well at rather high speeds. You would think just building a big funnel on the front of the car would work - but if you did some testing you would find the air begins to bounce off of itself as it stacks up in the funnel - no appreciable pressure gains can be had in that manner. If you know an air conditioner technician who has a gauge (called a Magnehelic) to measure water column inches of pressure he could loan you - you can test this yourself. Make yourself a scoop out of cardboard, change designs, Duct tape the thing on the side of your Ranger bed, sit back there with it (check State law about riding in the back) and change the shape and size of the scoop and check it out. You may expect the air to read out in pounds - but it won't.

You may be asking yourself - why was he doing all this testing if he already knows the answers? I'm a writer, I thought it would make a nice article after I try a few other things. I may come up with the complete list of things that promise to improve your horsepower and are guaranteed absolutely, positively not to work. Who knows?
 
Thanks for the insight!

Very informative.

Question now. I have an idea on how to improve on the stock one.

If you look at it now it has the plastic tubing going to the left and it feeds the air from somewhere in between the wheel well and the front grille.

What if you (hypothetically speaking of course) moved the battery up a little bit (keep in mind I was looking at a different ranger so I might not be correct) and made a second tube but on the right side.

Just an idea I thought up, but not sure.

Curious to know what you guys think.
 
Im not too sure about the layout of the intake tube on the 4.0, so I won't say yes or no. But personally, I would just leave it alone. I assume you're going for a 'more direct route' for the air to make it less restrictive, but I don't think that's necessary. Unless you're trying to gain a little depth on your water crossing ability, in which case, that may help.
 
IMO, the best solution for water crossings is a vacuum break. This was done by the factory for some 2.9Ls. Run a tube from the dirty side of the filter (as high in the housing as you can) up to the top of the firewall. That way, you won't ingest water until you submerge the filter. A less-than-one-inch tube is completely adequate for this.

No need to replumb the intake for this.

Woody's measurements are fine, but there are simpler solutions. You can monitor the air intake temperature with just a scan tool (or even a voltmeter), as you already have a temperature probe in the intake (IAT sensor). You can make a simple water manometer with a U-shaped tube and a ruler. Use a small tube to keep the sloshing down. Leave one end open to the ambient air and connect the other end to what you wish to measure. This will directly give you column inches of water with no conversions.
 
I got the stuff earlier today, and Im gonna run a vacuum break on mine. I don't think I really need it, but it'll help me breath a little easier going through water. Ive never been through anything much deeper than the bottom of my doors, but this way I shouldn't have to worry until the water is up to the tops of my wheelwells.... which should never happen.
 

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