disciplerocks's B2 build thread

[97TrailRigDD]

Do you have a good ground from the engine to the frame and body . A bad ground could cause a weak spark . Jumper cables work well for adding a temporary ground .

 

[disciplerocks]

Would that let it start cold, but not warm?

 

[88_Eddie]

i couldnt really tell in the pic, but how did you go about bracing that arm? i'm pretty sure i'm going with the same extensions from stonecrusher and i've been trying to figure out how i'm gonna gusset them.

 

[Kage]

Possibly the TPS. Not the IAC. That would cause the high idle to slowly decrease and wouldn't keep it from starting warm. And neither would a bad injector.

Also keep in mind it ran perfect before pulling.

After giving my tired brain a rest, you're right a leaky/sticking injector would mostly likely cause a dead miss on a hot restart, but it should stop it from starting (unless they're all leaking/sticking, which I doubt).

I've gone through the thread from the start, but I missed that it was running good before pulling.

IAC can do lots of goofy things (High/low idle, Idel creep, slow high idle decay, etc). But it shouldn't cause a no start when hot issue.

What's the fuel pressure look like? And is it only running rich at idle or through out the power band?

And no I'm not trying to sound like I know your truck better than you, just trying to help spur some additional thoughts as I know how much of a pain it is to take motor "A" that was running fine and put it in Vehicle "B" only to have to chase down seemingly endless issues.

Good luck!

 

[disciplerocks]

Thanks. I originally thought it was the coolant temp ensor because it made the most sense. If the ecu thinks its always cold, then it would icle high and run rich all the time like it is doing. It would also flood the motor with fuel everytime it tried starting even if the motor was hot. And that could cause it to not fire.

 

[RangerSVT]

Go old school diagnostics...Read what your plugs are telling you. Run the engine til it gets warm, shut it off, then try and start it for 5 seconds. Pull a plug and read it. If it's wet, then your flooding. Also, before you fry the ECU, check and make sure you have good grounds from the battey to the motor, batt to chassis, and motor to chassis...
SVT

 

[disciplerocks]

i couldnt really tell in the pic, but how did you go about bracing that arm? i'm pretty sure i'm going with the same extensions from stonecrusher and i've been trying to figure out how i'm gonna gusset them.

I ran a piece of 1" angle along the inside, (if you knew me, you would know I use that for everything) then a couple small pieces of flat steel on top and bottom of the actual arm to fill in for the difference in diameter between the arm and extension. You need to keep it from bending up or down. I haven't had a problem with it bending side to side.

 

[Jay'94]

Go old school diagnostics...Read what your plugs are telling you. Run the engine til it gets warm, shut it off, then try and start it for 5 seconds. Pull a plug and read it. If it's wet, then your flooding. Also, before you fry the ECU, check and make sure you have good grounds from the battey to the motor, batt to chassis, and motor to chassis...
SVT

And Body to motor.

 

[disciplerocks]

Added some grounds, picked up a couple MAFs from the u-pull and swapped them out. Reset the ecu both times, started it and ran till it reached operating temp. Shut it off and tried starting it again and it still wont.

 

[RangerSVT]

Could be a wiring issue...Re-check all your connections as well as what connected to what...
SVT

 

[97TrailRigDD]

Maybe vapor lock . Might check return line for restriction with compressed air .

 

[86 slo-vo]

Maybe vapor lock . Might check return line for restriction with compressed air .

thats a good place to check...


still using the auto computer?

 

[dangerranger83]

Okay just throwing an idea out there. When you go to start it from being warm and it wont, reset the computer and try again and see if that helps (or makes things more confusing).

Could it be a bad crank sensor or cam sensor. Think I read somewhere that if they get hot, they have to cool down before it will allow the engine to start again. I would also try the fuel thing too.

 

[disciplerocks]

The fuel thing might be a possibilty. I'll check where I had to add the adapter. Might be kinked. And yes I am using the auto computer. Have a manual one here I picked up yesterday, but I haven't tried it.

 

[disciplerocks]

Fixed!!!!! It was a bad ecu. Swapped it with the one I picked up yesterday and it works great now. Thanks everyone for the help.

Also welded the brace onto the drivers side arm, got my tach working again, burned some boxes that were left from moving, cleaned the driveway and garage floor of leftover parts and tools, and started a new project

I'd say I had a pretty productive afternoon.