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Disable anti theft on 1999 ranger


Efordman

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
33
Transmission
Automatic
So I'm looking at a 99 ranger with a 4.0 manual transmission. It has been wrecked in the front but still runs just fine. I want to swap the motor into my bronco 2 but not sure how to bypass the anti theft system once it's all in the bronco. Can anyone help with that?
 
The easiest way would probably be to get a computer from a truck between 96 and 97 that just didn't have the anti-theft. Ultimately the best way to kill it will depend on you plan to wire things up.
 
So I'm good with wiring but I know it will take alot of work to do... The mechanical part isn't a problem... I've read every article I could find but none of them​ use the newer motor with the anti theft. The truck I'm looking at is only 500$ with a low mileage 4.0 and manual transmission all ready to go other then the fact it went off the road and totaled the front end. Do you have any specific articles I could read or know anything that could help?? Most articles I have found either don't have pictures or they don't show up
 
This isn't really a picture kind of thing and has very little to do with the engine itself. The anti-theft system is a software subroutine in the computer that disable the starter and/or fuel system if the correct signals aren't received.

It isn't a physical part that can be removed or wired around. Getting rid of it is a matter of either getting a computer that doesn't have it, or getting a custom tune written that will delete it.
 
That's more of the information I was looking for... I wasn't sure if it was something I could unhook/unplug or wire in a bypass for it. My next thought was that could the newer trucks switch cylinder fit in the bronco 2 column?? Could I them wire up the antenna for the RFID and use the new key
 
The newer lock will not fit your older column. It's too big.

This is why I was asking about how you plan to do the wiring. If you want to keep your original interior you would be far better served finding an engine harness and computer from something 90-94.

If you are set on the OBDII computer you may be better off doing the work to install the newer dash and just keep everything from the security system.

If you are set on mixing the newer computer with the older dash I would take all the PATS components, including the key and hide them somewhere. Then you can tape the key to the PATS antenna and it will look to the computer like all is well and it should start every time without issue.
 
So the taping the key somewhere is my idea... Maybe have an alternative location and keep the switch functional as a separate shutoff? Would that possibly work?
 
I don’t know if this will help you but when I had the remote start added to my Sedona I had to order a key from Kia and then cartoys glued it to the unit
 
So the taping the key somewhere is my idea... Maybe have an alternative location and keep the switch functional as a separate shutoff? Would that possibly work?

I'm not 100% sure what you are suggesting there. The head of the PATS key has to be with like 5 mm of the receiver antenna, so the best way to do it would be tape it to the antenna and then stuff that somewhere, leaving the key in the column functioning normally. Just having the key in the vehicle is not good enough like it is with the push-button starts.
 
Would it be possible to mount the pats ignition switch somewhere else (glovebox,console,under dash) and wire it in as an alternative shutoff. Like a second hidden ON/OFF switch for the ignition
 
Yeah, it would. The best way to do what I think you are proposing would be to leave the PATS system intact, mount that lock and the antenna, which are two different parts, in whatever hiding place you choose, which the associated ignition switch in series to the one on the column, and then leave it on. This would leave the ignition on the column functioning normally, but if you remove the key in the glove box it nothing would turn on and the PATS system would prevent the engine from starting.
 
Correct... I put both in series with the pats key always on except when I want it extra disabled for whatever reason
 
Yeah, you just need to wire everything through the run posts of the second switch. It would probably be best to do key-on power through the run posts of both switches, and leave the starting circuit controlled only by the one on the column.
 
Now as long as I can handle the rest of the wiring harness I think this will be doable
 

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