dhkonrad's 93 ford ranger

[stiluv]

I didn't pre heat mine I just cranked up my mig and went slow its holding up pretty well

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

All the old timers I know say to be real careful. Maybe it's just the difference in equipment quality from then and now?

 

[kris97ranger]

You should. The metals cool at different rates thats why post heating helps. It may crack even if u cant see it and spread later on. Id check after wheeling trips and oil changes

 

[dhkonrad]

Something I have come to realize in a lot of aspects of life, is that there is very few digital answers. One of those is when it comes to pre/post heat. When ductility is the desire, preheat almost never hurts, but is not always required. Preheat is beneficial because it slows the cool rate, thus fighting the quenching effect of leaving hot metal in cold air/breezy air. I think that in this application preheat is definitely beneficial because IIRC the arms are either cast, or posses some sort of high carbon content. I just chose to keep mine relatively low in order to not normalize the cold worked properties of the DOM. I think that the nickel rod is one step beyond that, but I don't know where the line is as far as what is necessary. Mine has help up thus far without issues, but only time will tell I guess.

Edit: I have also heard that if you use a big enough machine and do multiple passes, it reduces the need for preheat somewhat because it will more evenly heat the whole workpiece. fwiw

 

[merch]

Theres always pros and cons,nickel is best on cast but in certain aplications ive had no trouble with flux core wire. That being said,knowing how to lay a bead doesnt make you a welder,and does make you fab work safe. Understanding your material and what your doing to it by changing the properties with heating and cooling is whats gona give you the best results. With that kind of preasure and your life depending on your weld,i believe research is the best option before welding. I agree with both sides here but for me id suggest preheat post heat and wrap to avoid makin one brittle and one soft. (cast and dom)

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[MadDog]

So I just got through your thread and I have to say I dig it. Your post from Halloween and doing some math made me laugh seeing you work out moment of inertia the , I did the same thing when figuring out how low I could get away with my gears before I started reaching the limit of the axle shafts from torque alone.

Was I reading that you were concerned with your departure angles and banging up your rear?

 

[dhkonrad]

So I just got through your thread and I have to say I dig it. Your post from Halloween and doing some math made me laugh seeing you work out moment of inertia the , I did the same thing when figuring out how low I could get away with my gears before I started reaching the limit of the axle shafts from torque alone.

Was I reading that you were concerned with your departure angles and banging up your rear?

thanks bud!

I'm not so much concerned with my departure angle, as much as just resigned to the fact that it sucks and I smash my bumper on just about every ledge I drop off of lol

 

[MadDog]

You could always perform a bob. Mine turned out easier that I thought it was, but mine was to shorten the wheel base and not the rear end sticking out.

Plus I agree with the preheating and the slow cooling of the welds. Possibly forming martensite from quick cooling and forming cracks and would make that metal brittle which is not anything you want on that piece. Being a Material Scientist we go into iron/carbon alloys a great amount.

 

[Kevery]

Cut and remove fenders. Stuff some 42's under it. No welding required. Problem solved... your welcome.

 

[dhkonrad]

You could always perform a bob. Mine turned out easier that I thought it was, but mine was to shorten the wheel base and not the rear end sticking out.

Plus I agree with the preheating and the slow cooling of the welds. Possibly forming martensite from quick cooling and forming cracks and would make that metal brittle which is not anything you want on that piece. Being a Material Scientist we go into iron/carbon alloys a great amount.

meh, it hasn't really got me into trouble yet, and I kind of like having as much of a bed as I can get.

Where did/do you go to school?

Cut and remove fenders. Stuff some 42's under it. No welding required. Problem solved... your welcome.

^^This^^ As soon as I get done with school....

 

[MadDog]

I grew up in Boise and went to BSU as a ME for 3 semester but hated it and so I moved up to UofI and switched to MSE. Should be done next fall.

 

[BTlilred]

Seriously sick truck dude, how did you bypass the dome light and door dinger when you run without doors?

 

[dhkonrad]

Seriously sick truck dude, how did you bypass the dome light and door dinger when you run without doors?

Thanks man!
I honestly just pulled my bulb out of the dome light, and my dinger is already such that if I turn my keys just right, it doesn't ding. Probably not really helpful, sorry.

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[kris97ranger]

When I pulled my doors and unplugged the harness at the kick panel it stopped both

 

[dhkonrad]

When I pulled my doors and unplugged the harness at the kick panel it stopped both

I just pulled my doors off again and I did basically this. Definitely works

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