DD please help

[bambino]

I have a thread on this already in the Bii forum but I don't have a lot of time to get this fixed. One day off and have two kids that keep me busy enough.
I have an 88 bii 2.9. Have changed the following,
Battery, plugs, wires,cleaned iac, inline fuel filter, coil,tfi, tps and maybe more?
Anyway, truck ideled good in park when warm it would stall ONLY when put in drive or reverse. Pulled codes for tps. Changed it and fuel filter.
Made huge mistake with fuel filter. Thought i had the canister filter. Turns out canister is empty....I broke the dang canister. I figured i would just bypass it. Its useless anyway. So it had two lines in and two out. I'm not sure if i have them reconnected right cause now it won't start. It cranks but won't turn over. I have fuel at the rail but not sure of the psi. I put old tps back in and still won't start.
After cranking a few times without turnning over I noticed the inertia switch needed to be reset again. Could this all add up to a bad switch? Its the first time i had to reset it and this problem is ongoing.
I currently have the break lines disconnected cause one blew a hole. The computer isn't smart enough to pick up on this and tell the engine not to start. Right?
I'm thinking either....
I hooked up the two fuel lines comming from the than going to the high pressure pump or whatever incorrectly....
or
The tps somehow fell out of whack when i took it off.
or
its something else entirely that i will never figure out causing me to go on a killing spree.
Please help....

 

[adsm08]

Ok, your brake lines have nothing to do with your issue. Forget them for now.

The inertia switch may be at fault here. Same with your screener by-pass rig.


Try bypassing the switch, and if that doesn't work, then check your fuel line hookups.

 

[RangerSVT]

The inertia switch is mechanical, so something had to jolt it to trip...Also, you need to check the fuel rail for PSI, its possible you have the lines crossed. An easy way to tell is to mate the larger line with the large line, you should have a 5/16 line (return) and a 3/8 line(supply)...
SVT

 

[doorgunner]

You need to make sure that you chose the line coming from the gas tank pumps fuel by taking the end of it that was connected to the fuel cannister & sticking that end into an empty 2 liter soda pop bottle----get someone to turn the ignition to the start position so you can hear the fuel pump running----it should only take a few seconds with the ignition on to fill the bottle halfway up IF YOU CHOSE THE PRESSURE LINE.

Then you have to trace the line that comes from the fuel rail down to the fuel cannister. The line that has fuel pressure from the tank connects to the line that goes to the fuel rail.

The other two lines connect together.


BUT WAIT FOR SOMEONE ELSE TO VERIFY WHAT I SAID!!!!!!!!!

 

[RangerSVT]

The small fuel line (Verified by the line coming from the fuel pressure regulator) from the fuel rail is the returm line
SVT

 

[bambino]

You guys are the best!
Few questions though.....
Got a link for bypassing the inertia switch?
Svt, did you mean line from high pressure pump is return? I don't recall if both lines go to pump but pretty sure only one does?
I noticed while splicing them back together one line from the pump was spilling gas the other did not. I guess the one with flowage is my supply? Where describe supply go from tank? To the pump or directly to the rail.
I realize this may be a simple process of ilimination but its helpful to understand how things work......

 

[RangerSVT]

The inertia is easy, just make a jumper wire, there are only 2 wires on that plug, one in, and one out, tie them together to bypass...The pump, both lines come from the tank, one is supply or feed, the other is return, return is always the smaller sized line. The one that pours fuel out when the key is on is the supply line, it gets connected to the larger line at the canister's location.
SVT

 

[bambino]

​

Got her started! It was just a matter of reconfigureing fuel lines.
Thank you!
Now onto brake lines.
I'm using compression unions so i don't have to flair any lines. My wrenches slip on the unions and fittings. Should i get a set of those special hose wrenches? You know,the kind that are almost boxed?
This is going to be a fun project i can tell already!

 

[TimR]

​

Got her started! It was just a matter of reconfigureing fuel lines.
Thank you!
Now onto brake lines.
I'm using compression unions so i don't have to flair any lines. My wrenches slip on the unions and fittings. Should i get a set of those special hose wrenches? You know,the kind that are almost boxed?
This is going to be a fun project i can tell already!

NO! Do NOT use compression fittings on Brake lines! Auto Zone lends tools to customers, or bite the bullet and buy a double flare tool. Compression fitting are unsafe, as they cannot handle the pressure your brake lines operate under!

 

[RangerSVT]

Yes, invest in flare nut wrenches, No, don't use unions on brake lines, they will not hold the pressure, as mentioned. A flaring tool kit is around $20 from Autozone, go get one
SVT

 

[TimR]

And please note, Brake lines are steel, and are double flared.

 

[bambino]

Okay thanks again. Ill chime back in when I have successfuly run all new brake lines. Looks like a nightmare of a job but i have no choice. The mechanic i got the truck from repaired a line using a union. That's why i thought it would be okay.plus its w whole lot easier than bending all new lines and all.

 

[Mac]

NO! Do NOT use compression fittings on Brake lines! Compression fitting are unsafe, as they cannot handle the pressure your brake lines operate under!

I'll take issue with that. Brake systems only run at 1200 psi (about), that's nothing in the hydraulic world. Compression fittings are widely used in the high pressure world. Granted you have to use a good quality brand like Parker or Swaglok. Here is a chart of what even brass compression fittings are rated at. Stainless is about 50% higher.
Dave of the Nord

 

[naford]

Have you thought about premade lines that you just have to bend. It has the ends already flared.


Not to thread jack buuuutttt. I'm trying to get my head around steel brakeline that has a rough outside and a soft brass ring of a compresson fitting. When I've used compresssion fittings on copper pipe it indents the copper a little. Unless you polished the steel line I would think it would leak.

 

[RangerSVT]

I'll take issue with that. Brake systems only run at 1200 psi (about), that's nothing in the hydraulic world. Compression fittings are widely used in the high pressure world. Granted you have to use a good quality brand like Parker or Swaglok. Here is a chart of what even brass compression fittings are rated at. Stainless is about 50% higher.
Dave of the Nord
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/macripper/motor%20reference/fittingpressure.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

Mac, not trying to step on your toes, but there is a reason Ford didn't use compression fittings on factory equipment. CF's also can be under or over tightened, causing leaks either way. Vacuum assisted brake systems run up to 2000 psi, and hydraulic assisted brake systems (hydroboost) run up to 3500 psi...
SVT