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dangerranger1983 build


It's like 75/25 mix (coolant/water) or so. I.dont think any froze because the same is in my car. Running aluminum water pump, rad, etc...I prefer to run less water.

Here's the cold start video from today, -12 degrees when doing this. No ether any other starting fluids were used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L26nMBjBBbk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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pure antifreeze will freeze, ask me how I know this, you must mix it 50/50 for it to work properly.






Robert




posted with a warm blanket and hot cocoa.

Yep, you are correct.
 
It hasn't leaked the last couple of days sitting in this warmer weather so I crimped the fingers as tight as I could then put some jb weld in the area that was leaking. Not pretty but hopefully it holds till I can afford a new rad.

20140112_150751.jpg


I also have made it so the coolong system doesn't pressurize but will instead put the over flow tube into a pop can...as soon as I can find my zip ties.

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Drove the truck for the first time since I did the plug wire swap and what a world a difference. No more back firing, no chugging, struggling, etc...in 4th gear. Don't have any leaks that are dripping on the ground but I think it's leaking out the lower weep hole to where outs dropping onto the crankshaft and evaporating the anti freeze making it smoke a little. So now I'm probably after a new water pump but I'm going to price out a different one then a new unit from auto zone that it has now that is giving up after only a year.

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I've got the same issue right now! I'm gonna get on rock auto and see what I can find.
 
My water pump isn't leaking anymore but nite the smoke is coming from the center if the rad but nothing is leaking there either.

If I have to replace the water pump I'm going with a Ford racing or better brand name.

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Are you still running the CV belt setup?

My first water pump was leaking between the backing plate and the main housing. I got a new pump (just to be safe, it was a PITA to get at) pulled the backing plate off and put the 3H aviation sealant on both sides of the gasket and made sure it was snugged down good.

It was dripping down on the crankshaft pulley just like you said, but from the back of the pump.
 
To be honest, that actually looked exactly what it did the very last time it was dripping and smoking before I looked again and it appeared that it is coming from my rad.

So what backing plate are you exactly talking about, the one on the back of the pump that has a small gap in it at the base?

I'll try and get pictures of what I'm taking about.

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Yeah, it is the plate on the back of the water pump. It was a painfully slow leak but I could see it was leaking there and not between the WP and timing cover.
 
I'll get some good sealant and seal it while it's still in the truck and see id that works.

A slow leak doesn't bother me as much as my truck is smoking at a red light and everybody looking at it for that and not my choice of body pannel colors.

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How's the truck doin?
 
Runs and drives great since the plug wire change and upgrade. But because it gets 8mpg and the driver side windshield wiper joint in the cowl wants to come apart because its warn out, I can't drive it in weather needing them so as of right now shes in my garage and I drive the tbird


Plans are after I get my tax check I'm going to get the 4wd project finished up and then reinforce the game trac bar mount since it flexes a bit along with new brakes and rotors up front.

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When was the last time you adjusted the air/fuel mixture on the carb? I'm getting 14mpg @65-70 on the freeway in 4th gear. I don't use 5th much it doesn't seem to help the fuel mileage any. I think my timing is a lil off and the secondary's are a little out I adjustment. I think if I put a little stiffer spring in they wouldn't open so quick. As long as I stay below 60-65 I get over 16mpg on the freeway.
 
I need to get an a/f meter and a vacuum gauge to get it set better. Also it idles high and my idle screw is set as low as it can so that tells me that I can set the mixture screws lower and have the idle screw do it's job.

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Gearing will play a big role too.

With 3.73's and 31's I am turning close to 3k at 55mph, secondaries start to open around 65-70mph.

It is hard to get any kind of milage with a V8 turning those RPMs.
 

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