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dangerranger1983 build


When you do get the engine swapped, take and see if the bolts wiggle any in the bolt holes when they are almost hand tight.




Robert


posted from my laptop while doing nothing
 
Got the hole cut in the bell housing and got it fixed. Going to put JB Weld on the threads later as a better thread locker. Everything works as it should again, clutch works great, etc...

When I had cut the hole, I was able to at first hand screw the bolt in then had to use a wrench but it didnt wiggle at all or want to pull out, it just wants to vibrate loose.

As promised pics...

What I was dealing with again...
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Got the angle grinder out and cut a hole and got it right on the first try. Note how far it had vibrated out in just a couple of days.

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Got teh wrench on it and tightened her back up and it pulled the trans to the bellhousing which also made the clutch stuff line up as it should and make contact with the clutch fingers (cant see that but thats what the problem was).
2012-04-05114047.jpg


Keeping an 11/16 wrench in the truck from now till the 302 swap.
 
Well no progress other then hopefully get an intake and a dizzy off a member off here for a good deal so went out and took some pics.

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Ordered a dipstick for the engine, should be in tomorrow. Also yesturday hit the brakes on my truck for a sudden stop and also to test them and now my rear brakes are making the typical rubbing sound when driving. The sound doesnt get louder as i drive or when I brake but has a slight pause/noise/pause/noise when driving and from what I can hear a constant sound at higher speeds. When I brake, it doesnt pull to any side nor when driving and my hands off the wheel. Also made a clunck sound too, hopefully one of the rear brake setups didnt let go on me and now all of the stuff is inside the drums making the sounds I hear.
 
Well found the problem. Guess I need to get this fixed ASAP.

2012-04-18193011.jpg
 
Time for an Ex 8.8 swap
 
I hope to do a quick fix and get a new backing plate hopefully tomorrow from the JY.
 
Yes it is. I will have to pull an axle shaft to replace the backing plate and I really don't want to do that. So now I start decided what to do. The rubbing sound is the drum rubbing the backing plate. Now if I wanted to do a quick fix then I would cut a slot in a new backing plate to go over the axle shaft to avoid pulling an axle, may just end up doing that.

Just a million things happening and going on that is slowing my 302 swap and its starting to suck.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2
 
Well third time is the final straw for getting towed. Also third time I have had the same bolt backing out problem.

2012-04-20182832.jpg


Bolts have stripped out their holes in the trans for the bellhousing to stay attached and for the clutch to work so it looks like a month or so of no driving and walking to everywhere while I tackle my 302 swap.

Now its down to crunch time. Now I have to do anything I can to get it back on the road with the engine under the hood.
 
that sucks, get some JB weld and jam it in the holes and then tighten the bolts as far as you can, and let it sit over night.

also, when it comes to the brake backing plate, I would not cut it, that will weaken it, and could cause worst problems in the future.


Look on the bright side, you have your V8 engine, I can't find anyone around here that will trade me a V8 drive train for my 88 Ranger, and I refuse to use a Chevy engine, I would rather use a MoPaR drive train.

Good luck on your build, and try the JB weld, you have nothing to lose on trying it.



Robert
 
I have determined hell or high water I will be at the upcoming meet. monday I will get into it, get as much as I can done then hopefully button it up tuesday/wednesday weather permitting. Shouldn't cost me more then a thing of jb weld and time...and maybe some blood.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2
 
Hopefully the JB will work. I say use a helicoil also.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Hopefully the JB will work. I say use a helicoil also.

I didn't think of that, I was just thinking of how he had cut him some holes so he wouldn't have to remove the trans to tighten the bolts, but if your going to drop the trans, then use the helicoil, it's just going to take more time.




Robert




posted while doing something else.
 
Time is what I dont have. I work nights now so I sleep a good part of the day plus have one complete day off to get as much as I can done.

As far as heli coils, Im not going to bother. It simply will take to much time and its something that I have never done and I just want to get this fix enough till I get everything for the swap, and part gathering for the swap is going to put on the front burner now, Im done whipping this trans problem and tired of babying it and fixing it non stop and having to worry about if Im going to break down or not.

Problem with opening up a hole in the trans to tighten them was aluminum threading doesnt like to have steel bolts going being threaded/re-tightened through them alot and over time, something has to give. Plus I dont have access to the top bolts either. I will say there are no bolts holding anything anymore, I found one in the bell housing, one under the truck that fell through my hole, my current one that wont hold torque anymore and the forth...who knows where it is now.

My theory is as the engine torques, so does the trans and whatnot and over time this torques the bolts slowly but surely enough that they are able to get loose enough to start vibrating out and whatnot.
 

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