Dana 35 ttb swap?

[cammeddrz]

the D30 and D35 front ends both become weak with 35" tires or larger.

I agree 100% 35" is the widely-accepted max for either of them.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Personally the D35 TTB is by no means worth the work. Neither is a D30. I would skip both and go for at least a 44 if you don't think the stock IFS is up to what you want to do.

To me the D35 saving grace for RBV's is they are a bolt in for those of us that don't have them from the factory and for the TTB trucks don't require lift to clear the massive engine crossmember.

If you want a stockish truck a D30 would be ok, if you want more price out the mods vs a narrowed D44... you can do a lot to 44's too.

Not so much if it wouldn't hold, but down the road if you wanted more yet you are kinda painting yourself in a corner with a D30.

jeep cherokees and jk's are 4200 plus....the grands came with v8 power

My V8 standard cab longbox Ranger with a full tank of gas weighed 3870 last Sunday at the local co-op subracting my weight. Not much of a difference considering mine is probably towards the heavier end of the stockish Ranger spectrum. It isn't a scab but I haven't exactly done much to make it lighter either...

 

[cp2295]

Hmm lots to think about.. I can't decide which to go.. I'm leaning towards a d44 but when the time comes for this project I'll know. And what do you mean high and low pinion? Getting used to axle definitions.

You guys would definitely agree a ifs d35 is weaker than a ttb d35 yeah?

Either way though I have beat up my ifs d35 and it keeps going so it's a pretty decent axle, I try to stay away from rocks though, not much flex in those axles.

 

[cp2295]

And I was thinking of doing 33s but if I'm gonna sas I might as well have at least 35s

And how much can the ifs d35 handle with a 4.0 and 1.5" t bar crank? I wanted to do 32x11.5s. It's got 3.73 gears. And the hubs will be unlocked most of the time (got the rugged ridge ones)

 

[cammeddrz]

You guys would definitely agree a ifs d35 is weaker than a ttb d35 yeah?

yes, for the same reasons a D35 ttb is weaker than a straight D30, or straight D35.

the Dana numerical rating is a rating of the torque output the carrier can handle, the carrier alone.

when either is compared to a straight d30,
a ttb axle has weaker stamped steel beams, an aluminum housing, and an additional U-joint. but the carrier inside the housing is rated at 35, so "stronger" than a d30 there, but the surrounding components are weaker. so i'd call it a wash

the IFS D35 has similar downfalls as the ttb 35. so it isn't much weaker one-to-the-other.

you are kinda painting yourself in a corner with a D30.

I disagree, a d30 isn't painting yourself into a corner. in fact, quite the opposite. if you swap in a d30, if you ever want to do the D44, all you need to do (for the most part) is weld the brackets onto the D44, and its done. something I could do in an afternoon.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I disagree, a d30 isn't painting yourself into a corner. in fact, quite the opposite. if you swap in a d30, if you ever want to do the D44, all you need to do (for the most part) is weld the brackets onto the D44, and its done. something I could do in an afternoon.

Except you are out money you invested in the thing. Get the fancy shafts, lockers, regear, new balljoints, seals... you will get only a fraction of it back reselling it.

Just saying be sure you won't want a D44+ later on before you sink a bunch of money in a D30.

I hate doing that with my D28, new balljoints, crosses and alignment won't help its scrap value a bit when I replace it for a D35 in a few years. Can't really do much with a hosed alignment and I don't want to align it with the original balljoints (which are still tight) either...

Bobby plays with his stuff pretty hard, other than him I haven't heard of many people bending beams that were not envolved in an accident (where another vehicle clobbered the wheel) I don't think it would be much rarer than bending the dainty tubes on a D30 or really any other comparable solid axle. People swap to the D30 because it is the right size, cheap and available... not because it is particularly stronger than a TTB D35.

IMO that needs to be a non-issue here anyway, a TTB conversion isn't a feasible thing on this truck.

 

[bigmark303]

a TTB conversion isn't a feasible thing on this truck.

^ that. TTB is just not cost effective at all on a 1998+ year.

Go solid and as said if you go D30 you will be set to swap to a D44 with minimal work.

Its up to you how reliable you want it. Run a D30 with 35" tires and always have in the back of your head something may break today or go D44 and worry less.

If Jeeps didn't come with D30s for front solid axles they wouldn't have aftermarket support the way they do and everyone would just think a D30 solid axle is junk. Which in stock form its not far from junk when equipped to a 4x4 vehicle weighing 3500lbs or more with 31+ inch tires. Every cheap axle on the 4x4 market that has aftermarket support but shouldn't because they are inferior is because of Jeep. Look at the support the D35 rear end on a Jeep has. Who in their right mind would build a D35 rear for a 4x4. Even the 8.25 isn't much better than the D35 but yet it has aftermarket support. We swap for D30s when Jeeps guys swap for D44s. Go D44 the first time youll love it.

 

[cammeddrz]

Just saying be sure you won't want a D44+ later on before you sink a bunch of money in a D30.

that's assuming he sinks "a bunch of money" into it.

guys around here literally give them away, no joke recently a guy had one listed on the classifieds here. under price, he put "case of beer"

(I can already hear someone's keyboard clacking "they must not be any good if they give them away..." they're fine)

they're cheap, get one, put a $250.00 lunchbox locker in it, and all in you're into it $300.00 (less if you find the locker used) hardly "a bunch of money" for an interim SAS axle.

there are even ratios that match RBV rear ratios

3.07 - 1997-2006
* Standard ratio used with 6 cyl models except the Rubicon

3.55 - 1997 only
* Optional ratio used with 6 cyl

3.73 - 1998-2006
* Optional ratio used with 6 cyl manual and automatic except the Rubicon
* Standard ratio used with 6 cyl 4 speed auto
* Standard ratio used with most 4 cyl automatics
* Standard ratio used with 4 cyl 6 speed
* Standard ratio used with Dana 44 rear axle except the Rubicon

4.10 / 4.11 - 1997-2006
* Standard ratio used with 4 cyl 5 speed manual
* Standard ratio used with Rubicon

4.56 - 2003-2006

if your claim hinges on not "sinking a bunch of money", there is no way to install a D44 without spending a lot more money than a D30,
different bolt patterns need to be addressed, and different widths need to be addressed. at least with a D30 he will spend $300 now, and the rest as it comes along. With a D44, it'll be a much larger chunk all up front

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Assuming the case-o-beer special doesn't need ball joints

Assuming the case-o-beer special doesn't need brakes

Assuming the case-o-beer special doesn't need unit wheel bearings

Assuming the case-o-beer special's gearing is correct

Assuming you know how to align the case-o-beer special

Assuming the case-o-beer special's strength is insufficient for the OP's projected future needs

You just made a D44 upgrade $300 more expensive.

That is why I said to get out a pencil and figure up how much you want out of this thing before you jump into something like this. He doesn't like his current IFS, it didn't fall out from under his truck so if it was me it wouldn't have to happen tomorrow.

 

[bobbywalter]

^^is this guy for real?

regardless of this dude's opinion on a d30 swap.

I suggest you talk to people who actually have them

also, who said anything about oversize tires? I didn't, the OP sure didn't

I also suggest that you talk to people with D35, and find out how prone to getting tweaked, bent, and hammered their stamped steel housings are

oh, and a D35's 3rd member is aluminum. "stronger"? I think not. in fact the TRS member DOPIESLC hasn't ever even really wheeled his much at all, and his aluminum d35 3rd member has a hairline crack, and is now leaking fluid

I don't hate the D35, but if a person wanted to hate it, there are plenty of reasons for them to

he is for real, but as a cali native(him not i) and experienced driver on some of the most challenging trail systems i have ever seen (granted with oem powerlevels) his experience is exactly as he states and has bias to the d30 based on those conditions and rightfully so.

where i disagree with you guys is about the d35 strength...the alloy housing is very stout if you keep it out of the kill zone from impacts...it does not distort, like the beams and 8,8 rear housings which causes busting or tweaking bearing caps.

while i did bend up beams, the d30 i would say is no stronger, overall i would usually give the d35 and edge stock to stock. to close to call for the most part given our application.


i would never ditch a good d35 ttb for a d30...maybe a d44....but not likely....ttb 44 more likely if i am running the big mud 35's on the regular and abusing the truck. it always come back to intentions. but thats me and my use scenario. for the general use i dont see the fault in the ttb being in performance....its maintaining the alignment. i can do that, but i get sick of it too at times. and even with a tweaked up d35 i could keep it adjusted acceptable to get by...where a tweaked d30 just leaves you fawked. pro and con really leaves them tit for tat


2500 for one of the brand new d44's with a choice of gear and locker is not a bad deal ....but no way i want a d44 for that...i would need a 60.



key factors are simple for low buck...you use running working donor parts...whether its a engine swap t case or axle...use working parts.



as to the op....i was not kidding about swapping in a ttb d44 as an option.

i have not done thatYET but i can tell you i really see me doing another ttb rig to compete with in certain events.

i think it would not be overly difficult to do and pulled off cost effectively...for sure i could do it less then any 4 in sla lift. and it would net a much stronger rig as well.

first couple would be time consuming head scratchers though

 

[cp2295]

Firsthand I say the d35 ttb is damn strong. Impact wise; my friend hit a stump at about 35 when he lost control around a corner and his truck was fine other than the frame was a little bent and his steering gearbox was destroyed. $800 later and she drives just fine.. Oh and the bumper of course, not even the wheel was screwed up. Beefy stx rangers or somethinf

 

[4x4junkie]

Bobby's right, of the places where I wheel, I almost always see nothing but fixed-up Jeeps around me. I've seen my share of D30s spit ring & pinions, bow housings, and bend knuckle "C"s (and that's with the axle still under the vehicle it was made for). I would not recommend one under anything but maybe a BII or a 4-cyl reg cab Ranger, it's just more weight than what the axle was designed for (no the Ranger as a whole isn't significantly heavier than the Jeep, it's the weight distribution. Rangers, especially the Supercab, are far more front-heavy than a Jeep and is where the weight comes from).
It will NOT be the same axle under a Ranger as it is under a Jeep. It will not stand up to the same size tires or abuse as it will under a Jeep.


And as for DOPISLC's cracked housing, would the crack happen to be right up on the upper-passengerside area just behind where the ring gear is? Guessing he has a drop-plate style suspension lift on it? (Rough Country, older Superlift kits, BDS, etc.)? Because in all my 13 years here on the various RBV forums, impact from a drop-plate lift kit bracket hitting the D35 housing (not running proper bump stops) is about the ONLY cause of cracking I've ever seen on them (and of course this is a lift kit design fault, not the housing being weak). Maybe he can chime in here to confirm or deny this.