Dana 35 ttb swap?

[cp2295]

From a 97 or older ranger into a 99 ranger? Is this easier and cheaper than a d30 sas? I like the ttb better than the ifs. Way easier to lift and much beefier. But in the end if it's the same amount of time and work as a sas then the sas is the way to go IMO.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Same amount? I'd wager it'd take much more time and headache than an SAS. Well, short of cutting off the front rails at the firewall and welding TTB front end on. You'd still need to fiddle with the engine mounts and core support mounts.

I'd SAS it and call it a day, really any other option is just making work difficult for yourself.

 

[cp2295]

Okay with the sas what all needs cutting out? I know I gotta weld in shock towers and coil buckets/towers. But not sure about cutting out. I know that whole cross bar would come out

 

[SenorNoob]

If you like the TTB there is an easier way.

Step 1: Sell the 99

Step 2: Buy a 97

Step 3: Use the money gained from steps 1 & 2 to upgrade/tweak the 97.

 

[4x4junkie]

^^
That.

But yeah on a '99, SAS is the best way to get rid of the IFS. You'll want to pretty much clean the frame all the way down to the framerails.

Don't use a friggin' little D30 though... especially under that big Supercab I see in your pic

Get a F-150 D44 and cut it down 6". It's much easier than it sounds.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/narrowing_a_ford_dana44.htm

 

[cp2295]

Alright cool thanks, yeah d44 is much beefier I've found after some research.. Is it easier to sas a 1990 gen ranger or bronco II?

 

[cp2295]

And if I were to do it on my 99 what steering box would I use? I'm assuming all that rack and pinion needs to leave

 

[cammeddrz]

if "beefier" is your object. Why stop at 44? why not D60? D80? there isn't a single factory solid axle (aside from the d30) with roughly the correct width, and the correct bolt pattern. you will be dealing with those differences no matter what.

and XJ d30s are available everywhere for cheap with a high pinion.

I disagree with 4x4junkie

the D30 is fine. not super-duper-schmooper strong like a d60 (neither is a d44) or anything. but my guess is nothing else on your truck is either.

the only way you can have a d44 front, and keeping it near stock width is getting an EB front, it will be an inch wider than your current front, and the bolt pattern will be wrong. so you'll need the 9" rear from an EB to go with it.....and new wheels. unless you have them re-drilled, but hey, it's only money right?

so if you don't find an EB d44, you will get an FW d44, and will either need to have it shortened, or you will end up full width, and will need a FW rear to go with....and again, new wheels for the bolt pattern.

or you could Do the SAS with a D30, which is pretty easy, I know 2 guys who have done it. your truck will already be set up for an SAS so if, and when you want to upgrade in the future. it will be just a matter of welding on brackets to the new front axle. and you are in business.

it's your call. but I suggest the D30 and see where your needs take you

 

[cp2295]

Yeah I was thinking d30 just for the axle width, but I haven't seen too many at the junkyards. I haven't looked at an xj d30 setup, but that will go in to my rack and pinion setup with relative ease? The d30 just seems more feasible than a d44 but I do know it is not as strong.

 

[cammeddrz]

Skiboarder used his TTB steering box with his D30. i'd imagine you could attach a ttb steering box to your frame with relative ease

 

[1986fordranger]

you will also want to keep in mine that 2001 XJ's and all TJ's run a low pinion dana 30, not a high pinion, and anything older then a 95 have a CAD disconnect, which is generally a good idea to stay away from for a axle swap, 95 to 00 is the ideal way to go if you can..

 

[4x4junkie]

Well, when you hit a few potholes running oversized tires along with the additional 600lbs of Supercab Ranger sitting atop that little D30 that it wasn't designed for, and you find it's "smiling" at you, don't come saying I didn't tell you so.

 

[bobbywalter]

i folded up/distorted several ttb 35 beams.....always was straightening my duff arms...fawing up pivots etc....no big deal with the ttb when parts are all over...they are easier to fix then a straight axle housing after all.


jeep cherokees and jk's are 4200 plus....the grands came with v8 power


jk's regularly get hemi swaps and i agree the stock housings are definitely not ideal, just like a ttb...you pound them with power you will want to brace/truss/gusset them one way or another. with an ext cab i would definitely truss a stock housing.


luckily its easy to do because parts are so readily available.


you can buy a brand fawking new d44 with ox locker and your choice of gear for 2500 bux set up for jk/tj....you would have to put knuckle/brakes on most of the time for that though. there was a period of time the rubi axle was available for 1500. and those were complete. of course the further upgraded and beefed up housings alone are also 2500 bux


the 30 is out there in mass and easy to upgrade a bit at a time and is great for stock powertrains and 35 in tires. i wont ever understand the hate there. like always stated, i would not replace a d35 ttb with a d30 though.





on the otherhand, if i was going to clean out the rails on my 99 and wanted a ttb..... fitting and beefing a f 150 k member and d44 ttb with a bad ass powertrain would be worth the effort to me.


i am surprised that it is not regularly done in chevies and s 10 or whatever 2wd to 4x4 conversion because of the availability of the ttb 44... i predicted at one point that it would be common....shows what i know.


carry on.....

 

[cammeddrz]

Well, when you hit a few potholes running oversized tires along with the additional 600lbs of Supercab Ranger sitting atop that little D30 that it wasn't designed for, and you find it's "smiling" at you, don't come saying I didn't tell you so.

^^is this guy for real?

regardless of this dude's opinion on a d30 swap.

I suggest you talk to people who actually have them

also, who said anything about oversize tires? I didn't, the OP sure didn't

I also suggest that you talk to people with D35, and find out how prone to getting tweaked, bent, and hammered their stamped steel housings are

oh, and a D35's 3rd member is aluminum. "stronger"? I think not. in fact the TRS member DOPIESLC hasn't ever even really wheeled his much at all, and his aluminum d35 3rd member has a hairline crack, and is now leaking fluid

I don't hate the D35, but if a person wanted to hate it, there are plenty of reasons for them to

 

[bigmark303]

A D30 from a XJ Heep will be on par with a D35 TTB. Once you get over 35" tires they both have issues. Ive got a 2000 XJ that im building as a project with my brothers so they have something to wheel with me. Im not a Heep guy and after really getting into it and talking with many guys who have built and still build Jeeps around me the issues with the D30 solid axle either high pinion or low pinion id prefer the TTB D35.

I always take the build it right the first time approach and to build a D30 high pinion or low pinion right takes more money than just throwing spicer 760 joints in a TTB D35 and some manual locking hubs.

I got into the TTB D35 figuring once I got past 33" tires id be using my XJ D30 for the front but all the time ive spent beating on the D35 after rebuilding it the right way its plenty reliable and strong enough to rival a D30 straight axle. Ive been running 35" boggers for a little over a month now on mainly rocks because its winter here and I don't wheel anything water in freezing temps. D35 has been perfect. Its got a Detroit truetrac, 4.56 gears, e-clip eliminator, spicer 760 joints, and warn Ranger manual hubs. Not even the tougher Jeep Hubs.

For a 99 ranger SAS swap is simpler to perform, but between the D30 and D35 front ends both become weak with 35" tires or larger.