DANA 35 Nitro 4.88 Gear install help.

[Jim Oaks]

I think he means no matter which way he turned the pinion, it was tight in the same spot because of the bad bearing, not because of a tight contact point in the gear. Did you replace all your bearings??

 

[4.0B2]

if that pinion bearing is old... get a new one.
it's not recommended to but new gears on old bearings... Did you not get the master install kit?

edit: well okay, you made a setup bearing basically.. which is a smart idea.
you need a bearing puller set, so you can try the new bearing and still be able to remove it. Idk... without getting my eyes/hands on it, it's hard to say.

 

[Jim Oaks]

What do you mean you 'ground' them?

 

[nooch450]

I think he means no matter which way he turned the pinion, it was tight in the same spot because of the bad bearing, not because of a tight contact point in the gear. Did you replace all your bearings??

I am using the old bearings (from the stock gears / setup) that are ground out as set up bearings, I will press the new bearings on the pinion when I get home and see what happens.

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[Jim Oaks]

No.


Go get a single electric burner like this:

Put your pinion in the freezer for an hour or two. Before you take it out, put the bearing on that burner and get it nice and hot.

Get a piece if pipe the diameter of the bearing.

EDIT: Don't forget your shim

Take the pinion out and stand it up. Drop the new bearing on it and hold it down titght for several seconds with the pipe.

The cold will make the pinion get smaller, the heat will make the bearing bigger, and the bearing will literally fall right on to the pinion. Hold it down while the pinion warms back up and expands to make it tight.

Use a new bearing.

You need a new crush sleeve every time you try and set this up.

 

[nooch450]

What do you mean you 'ground' them?

The inner race on the old bearings has been slightly ground out to be able to pull the bearings off the pinion to replace pinion shims without using the press to pull and push the bearings on every time I want to change the pinion shim. Considering on the D35 TTB the pinion shims are under the race that is pressed into the housing it shouldnt hurt to press the new inner pinion bearing on the pinion. (The nitro instructions showed the pinion shims between the pinion and bearing so I made this setup bearing for nothing)

I also took the old inner pinion bearing race and ground the outside down slightly to be able to push it in and out of the housing to change the pinion shims...

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[nooch450]

No.


Go get a single electric burner like this:

Put your pinion in the freezer for an hour or two. Before you take it out, put the bearing on that burner and get it nice and hot.

Get a piece if pipe the diameter of the bearing.

Take the pinion out and stand it up. Drop the new bearing on it and hold it down titght for several seconds with the pipe.

The cold will make the pinion get smaller, the heat will make the bearing bigger, and the bearing will literally fall right on to the pinion. Hold it down while the pinion warms back up and expands to make it tight.

Use a new bearing.

You need a new crush sleeve every time you try and set this up.

Why does the directions say to assemble the pinion without the crush sleeve until final assembly?

And what wrong with pressing the pinion bearing on by contact with only the inner race on a press?

 

[Jim Oaks]

If you want to press them, press them. The method I told you is how I do it. Quick, simple, trouble free.

 

[nooch450]

If you want to press them, press them. The method I told you is how I do it. Quick, simple, trouble free.

Thanks for the advice. Ill try the new bearings and see if I get the same results and than ill report back

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[Jim Oaks]

Don't forget your shim.

 

[nooch450]

Don't forget your shim.

The shim goes underneath the pinion race. The only thing that goes under the bearing is the oil slinger...

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[Jim Oaks]

Ya, that's what I meant. Dana calls it a 'slinger shim'.

 

[nooch450]

I didnt get a chance to switch the D35 pinion bearings yet.

But how does this 8.8 patern look? Its at .011"-.013" backlash

 

[4x4junkie]

The carrier bearings are new, the pinion bearings are old and I ground out the center to slip them (tightly) around the pinion to change shims / aid in installation.

I strongly suspect that is your issue. The race (cone) is probably off-center after you having ground it.

I have the original (OEM) pinion bearings in my D35, they were in great shape so I reused them (plus one bearing in the Yukon install kit I got was wrong anyway). No problems whatsoever.
I also did not use setup bearings. As you noted, the new adjustment shims go behind the race not the bearing cone, so there's no need for them (the race is also easier to remove & replace in the housing too).

Finally, you DON'T need to use a crush sleeve every time you go to pull a gear pattern. This is just wasting crush sleeves, and taking a chance of screwing up the pinion threads repeatedly crushing those things.
All you need to do is lightly snug the pinion nut down until you have the needed preload on your bearings to run a contact pattern (use the old pinion nut, don't use the new one until final assembly). Once everything is all set up how you like it, install the pinion seal and crush sleeve, and button it up for the final time.


That 8.8 pattern looks real close, maybe just a tiny hair shallow. I would try adding about .005" to the pinion and see what it looks like.

 

[nooch450]

The old 8.8 pinion shim was .024" (too deep) and the one that is shown in the picture is .021". I think I need a .022" or .023" shim to get it perfect. The kit only had larger shims, nothing smaller than .019" so i couldnt stack any. Ill see if i can buy it seperatly.

As for the D35 I put the new bearings in and im stil having tight backlash when the pinion is clocked that same way... I marked it on the high spot befor taking it out so i could see.

I dont know what else it could be besides a high spot on the pinion.