D44 vs. D35

[The Jester Race]

How far can I push it forward until I have to move the PS pump?

I am 6" forward and my draglink is directly under the steering box. You can probably get 8" but I think that might be pushing it and could cause some undesirable steering characteristics.

-Jester

 

[The Jester Race]

Or you could run full hydro and push that axle as far forward as your little heart desires. I don't know if it's street legal in Oregon though, it's not in Cali.

-Jester

 

[Bennybooster]

Haha, no monies for full hydro however I think factory will be sufficient

 

[Bennybooster]

I am 6" forward and my draglink is directly under the steering box. You can probably get 8" but I think that might be pushing it and could cause some undesirable steering characteristics.

-Jester

Are you glad you went with TRE's for steering? Or would you have preferred Heims?

I think with how much mine will be driven on the streets TREs will serve me better

 

[The Jester Race]

Are you glad you went with TRE's for steering? Or would you have preferred Heims?

I think with how much mine will be driven on the streets TREs will serve me better

Yes TREs over Heims, one month on the street and the heims will have some slop to them which could cause some undesirable steering characteristics(death wobble). Per the advice of Mike from Parts Mike.

Super nice guy, and very reasonable prices. He set me up for high steer, including machining of passenger side knuckle, two high steer arms and all the steering linkage and hardware for $500 out the door.


-Jester

 

[Bennybooster]

Yes TREs over Heims, one month on the street and the heims will have some slop to them which could cause some undesirable steering characteristics(death wobble). Per the advice of Mike from Parts Mike.

Super nice guy, and very reasonable prices. He set me up for high steer, including machining of passenger side knuckle, two high steer arms and all the steering linkage and hardware for $500 out the door.


-Jester

Thanks for the info

 

[Bennybooster]

I think I have all of the main things figured out, if I have any more questions Ill ask em

 

[Bennybooster]

So I had an idea, so what if I build DOM radius arms with 0* link mounts on the axle and frame mounts so that I can run THESE on both ends of the arms.

THESE would be the axle mounts, and I will fab or buy the frame mounts, so is this a good idea? Or is there somthing I am overlooking?

 

[The Jester Race]

So I had an idea, so what if I build DOM radius arms with 0* link mounts on the axle and frame mounts so that I can run THESE on both ends of the arms.

THESE would be the axle mounts, and I will fab or buy the frame mounts, so is this a good idea? Or is there somthing I am overlooking?

I don't know, but with Ballistic expect to wait 3-4 weeks to get your parts. People love the Ballistic joints though.


-Jester

 

[brinker88]

All I have to input is, if this is your daily driver, keep it as stock as possible. The 31 spline shafts in the Expo axle are strong enough you dont need to upgrade them with the kind of wheeling Im assuming you're doing. As for the D35, I've never really had a problem with it and it flexes great (to a certain extent of course). I think ttb is fairly simple to work on and can keep your stock buckets. You wont have to worry about the crossmember being too close to your axle (No Straight axle). I personally prefer the narrower stance of the ranger. I've been on some pretty off kilter shit with it and I feel safe enough. Good choice on the expo leaves by the way, I have them and love them. As for the TTB 35, Rebuild it comepletely. Upgrade the shafts (known to blow u-joints), upgrade u-joints, and I would definitely do the D44 knuckles. Keeping this as close to stock as possible can save you a LOT of $$$ and in the long run you will be just as happy. I wouldnt go any bigger than 35s

Hope this helps

 

[Bennybooster]

Actually I wheel it hard, and I'm not going 8.8, im just gunna get the 9in.


I already figured it all out and SAS is right for me

 

[mhughes165]

Actually I wheel it hard, and I'm not going 8.8, im just gunna get the 9in.


I already figured it all out and SAS is right for me

why full width though, is just a question rolling around in my head....i thought the purpose of all of us with the smaller trucks is SO we DONT fall in all the fullsize truck ruts, thats what makes a smaller truck so bad ass. i really do not see the point of putting full width axles under it, u can no longer navigate those tight trails to that fun stuff full size trucks only dream about.

sas is all well and good, but those are just my thoughts. now u may continue down ur road that makes no sense(to me atleast) lol

and im just curious how many people that put the full width axles in there truck actually get away with driving them i know here in the great communist state of nj if you do not have complete tire coverage on a lifted truck(much more on full width under a small truck) they can impound ur shit

 

[brinker88]

SAS it is then. I have nothing against them. My F150 is a 3/4 ton SASed beauty. I did all the work myself after work at night...took awhile but well worth it.

 

[Bennybooster]

why full width though, is just a question rolling around in my head....i thought the purpose of all of us with the smaller trucks is SO we DONT fall in all the fullsize truck ruts, thats what makes a smaller truck so bad ass. i really do not see the point of putting full width axles under it, u can no longer navigate those tight trails to that fun stuff full size trucks only dream about.

sas is all well and good, but those are just my thoughts. now u may continue down ur road that makes no sense(to me atleast) lol

and im just curious how many people that put the full width axles in there truck actually get away with driving them i know here in the great communist state of nj if you do not have complete tire coverage on a lifted truck(much more on full width under a small truck) they can impound ur shit

This thread isn't about FW or not FW, I know the trails I go on and I know I need the stability, if I want to hear the debate Ill go to that thread you already started

 

[Bennybooster]

So I had an idea, so what if I build DOM radius arms with 0* link mounts on the axle and frame mounts so that I can run THESE on both ends of the arms.

THESE would be the axle mounts, and I will fab or buy the frame mounts, so is this a good idea? Or is there somthing I am overlooking?

Just realized, if I did this wouldn't the axle twist up like axle wrap?

Ill just use some stock arms