D35 TTB Spindle Nut Question

[Vexy]

Is there a trick to keeping the inner spindle nut from spinning as you torque down the outer nut? And yes my inner nut still has the little metal nub on it so that is not the problem.

 

[scotts90ranger]

get yourself a good compromise on the preload setting , put the keyed washer on then tighten the outer nut until you can't get it any tighter...

 

[legoms013]

What I find usually is happening is that the "nub" on the middle washer works its way into on one of the splines on the spindle...so what I did was I MIG'd a tiny tiny bit of material to either side of the nub, then ground it flat again and in the process making it longer so that the end of it actually touches the bottom of the keyway and the two edges are square. I haven't had any problems since doing this....it stays put even when torquing it past spec (150ftlbs+)

 

[brinker88]

Another way is a spanner wrench.

 

[legoms013]

Another way is a spanner wrench.

True but that doesn't guarantee the inner nut won't come loose again, or worse work itself tighter, as the middle washer slides onto the splines of the spindle, then toasting the bearings (I had both situations happen)...fixing the shape of the nub on the middle washer completely eliminates both situations as it addresses the real problem at hand: that damn round nub that should have been square and tight fitting in the keyway from the start.

 

[brinker88]

You have a very valid point there. Other than that modification you mentioned in your above post, is there any other way? Or do we have to just continually check the tightness once a week if you're not a welder/fabricator?

 

[legoms013]

You have a very valid point there. Other than that modification you mentioned in your above post, is there any other way? Or do we have to just continually check the tightness once a week if you're not a welder/fabricator?

In the past before I modified mine by adding weldment, I used to take a round, flat end punch and punch the nub a few times to increase it overall area...this worked for the most part. Just wasn't as form fitting as my other mod.

Other than that, a custom spanner wrench that holds the inner nut is about as good as you can do...but if the splines on the spindle are goobered you should keep and eye on them since that nut, and washer can work loose/tight over time (usually a highspeed jolt from a pot hole or similar road feature will knock em loose/tight).

 

[Hahnsb2]

If the lock washer is doing it's job, why is the inner nut spinning? I've never had this problem, even with the nub (the pin on the inner nut) missing .

 

[legoms013]

If the lock washer is doing it's job, why is the inner nut spinning? I've never had this problem, even with the nub (the pin on the inner nut) missing .

Probably b/c the splines on your spindle are not all goobered up and damaged like mine and possibly Vexy's.

The nub I have been referring to is the part that goes in the keyway of the spindle (and what I've modified), whereas the pin on the inner nut is what locks the middle washer and inner lock nut together...just in case anybody was confused.

Either way I've had my share of them coming loose or getting tighter, until I modified the middle washer...no problems since

 

[4x4junkie]

For awhile I was taking those washers and simply bending them into an oval ever so slightly using a vise so that the tab would stick down in the groove further, but I recall after a few times doing this I finally broke one and came to the conclusion they are pretty brittle.

Welding a tiny bit to the nub and shaping it with a file/Dremel/etc. afterward seems to be the best way to deal with the issue. I think this tends to be more of an issue with aftermarket washers however, not so much with the OE ones.

 

[legoms013]

For awhile I was taking those washers and simply bending them into an oval ever so slightly using a vise so that the tab would stick down in the groove further, but I recall after a few times doing this I finally broke one and came to the conclusion they are pretty brittle.

Yes I found they were very brittle via my punch method

 

[-Nathan-]

Once properly torqued, I have NEVER had a problem with them coming loose. On a different note, and in case anyone ever wonders....dana 44 TTB spindle nuts are interchangeable with dana 35 TTB spindle nuts...exact same thread/pitch. Only thing different about them is that the nuts are a bit thicker.

 

[4x4junkie]

Not just TTB D44s, all D44s that have the internal-mounted locking hubs. I've seen some D44 inner nuts that are slightly thinner than the D35's inner nut, but they still work the same nonetheless (outer nuts are all the same).

 

[brinker88]

Dana 44s on ANY make for that matter (including chebbys). Doesnt matter the make since it's all Dana/Spicer. So if you're at the yard and cant find a ford with the nuts on it, try a chevy

 

[Vexy]

Thanks guys for all the helpful info, I appreciate it.
I'll probably try your mod Legoms, as it seems to stop the problem right at the source, like you said.