D35 swap driveshaft length

[ecgreen]

Drawing closer to completing my D35 restoration, re-gear, lock and swap. I know the driveshaft needs to be shortened an inch. Can I just go ahead and have my driveshaft guy do this, or should I install the D35 and the do some measuring first?

Thanks for all the help guys, I literally couldn't do this without ya'll.

Sean

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I would get it together and measure for sure. Also keep an eye on your clearances, the pinion sits a little higher than it does on a D28 so things like a custom exhaust may now interfere.

 

[ecgreen]

This forum is awesome! Its like speed dial for truck nerds! Thanks!

 

[ecgreen]

OK, I am at the point where I need to consider the driveshaft (I know, my build is wicked slow). The driveshaft I have has about an inch of play at ride height. So if unbolted, I can push it back out of the front yoke by an inch before it bottoms out. How much do I need? It would be nice if I could get away with it like it is.

Awaiting wisdom download...

 

[4x4junkie]

I would be more comfortable with 1.5 - 2 inches. If you should bump into something hard enough with the left-front tire, your radius arm bushing could deflect enough for it to bottom out completely, possibly damaging the t-case.

Is the truck lifted (using drop brackets)? If not (and you do have plans to lift it), you may be able to get away with not having to shorten it once the lift is on.

 

[ecgreen]

I would be more comfortable with 1.5 - 2 inches. If you should bump into something hard enough with the left-front tire, your radius arm bushing could deflect enough for it to bottom out completely, possibly damaging the t-case.

Is the truck lifted (using drop brackets)? If not (and you do have plans to lift it), you may be able to get away with not having to shorten it once the lift is on.

Its lifted with a Duff Stage 1 kit. Sounds like I should get it shortened an inch then. Thanks!

 

[ecgreen]

I would be more comfortable with 1.5 - 2 inches. If you should bump into something hard enough with the left-front tire, your radius arm bushing could deflect enough for it to bottom out completely, possibly damaging the t-case.

Is the truck lifted (using drop brackets)? If not (and you do have plans to lift it), you may be able to get away with not having to shorten it once the lift is on.

Do you think i should cycle the suspension without the coil after i get the shaft shortened just to be sure?

 

[4x4junkie]

It certainly can't hurt.
The driveshaft does compress some with upward suspension travel, though it isn't a whole lot.

 

[SenorNoob]

What transfer case you have? If it's the 1350, then there was a factory shaft from a Ranger with the FM145 or maybe TK5 that was already an inch shorter.

 

[4x4junkie]

I think that's been tried before (the shaft from a FM145 truck would be two inches shorter than one from a FM146 truck, which might be enough for it to come apart at the yoke). If you were to move the axle forward slightly by rearranging the radius arm bushings (or moving the mounts on the frame) might be another way to get around this issue (the axle can be pushed forward slightly more than an inch before causing a clearance issue elsewhere).