d35 lower ball joint relocation

[Ranger#1]

arg i really wish i has a plasma

 

[CopyKat]

Angle grinder and cut off wheels are your best friend.

Any time you plasma or flame cut you leave slag behind that needs to be cleaned off after. You can easily contaminate the weld. With the lower ball joint being a vital component to keep your wheels and steering on the vehicle I wouldn't take any chances on having a poor weld.

 

[Ranger#1]

yea true that its 1/4 plate correct dam that stuff takes forever also does anyone sell the trusses pre cut as shown here im gonna have to post up some pix of my beams, so far iv plated both bottems with 1/4 plate it looks bad ass
http://www.camburg.com/images/Ranger/Beams/custombeams4x4.jpg

 

[Ranger#1]

but i kinda like the two piece dezign altho im pretty shure the 1 piece is stronger

 

[CopyKat]

but i kinda like the two piece dezign altho im pretty shure the 1 piece is stronger

The beams are around 3/16 thickness. Won't take long to cut through.

I plated mine with 1/8" pieces. My truss is also out of 1/8" shock mounts are the only 3/16" I used, and the bottom 5 bolts have a 1/4" plate over them. Still 1/8" underneath.

 

[CopyKat]

This may help out some

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2284477&postcount=41

 

[Ranger#1]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=206455
thissss is exactly what ima gonna do

 

[Ranger#1]

that link is a hella lot of good in fo im gonna do evrething except the coilovers lol

 

[CopyKat]

glad I could help out.

 

[Ranger#1]

for that center truss did you just use a piece of rectangle stock and trace the pattern with a sharpie or what

 

[Ranger#1]

copycat could you post a pic of the bottoms of your beams ans maybe all around the bottom ball joint I'm really hesitant on slicing into my steering geometry lol

 

[MAranger]

Hi fellas,

as for determining the AMOUNT, not place change camber, the camber change can be figured out with some trig. I am trying to plan my own c&t, and have approached it as follows.

Each beam is pivoted at the bracket end, and secured at the coil retainer by the coil. This has a distance, somewhere around 35" iirc. Now you install your lift coils into the truck, and see how much longer your new coils are while compressed than your stock coils measured while compressed. With these measurments, you can model the camber change as a triangle and use trig. Your pivot to coil retainer length is your hypotenuse, and your lift height is your opposite side of the triangle. Sin^-1(lift hieight/pivot to coil)=camber change (in deg's or rads).

so, assuming 35", camber changes 1.6 degress for every inch of lift.


Now you pick a spot to cut. This has been debated, and I don't know enough about this part yet to make any conclusions.

Regard less of where the cut is made, at that point, a cut is made completely through 3 sides of the beam, leaving the top side in tact. You spread this cut to put the camber back into the beam. Using trig again, take a measure of the cut's length as the hypotenuse, and the width of the gap you are creating at the bottom side of the beam as the opposite. Where Sin(deg's camber)= (gap width/cut length). Obv you plate the hell outta the beam.



Thats how i figure this stuff anyways. Lmk if you guys see anything wrong with this.


Copykat, is there any camber built into those? Are you talking about lopping off the lower bj tab and reconnecting it further out?

 

[CopyKat]

Th truss is made up of 6 pieces. welded together. you could make it out of a rectangle tube if you wanted to. I have enough 1/8" plate to make it like I did so i went that route.

Not sure what your looking for as for the bottom ball joint area. I plated the bottom and the top around the ball joint blocks. Don't have any good clear pictures other than the one i posted above.

You can do it on paper but it's not going to be the same and opens it up for human error. Better off just doing it on the truck as a mock up. then you know it's going to be 100%
No the beams I plated are not cut and turned. Although I wish I would have done that when I built them. It's going to be a mess to cut it now and try to relocate them. I supose i could do another set of beams and use the D44 lower section to save from having to ream out the taper. for the D44 knuckles.

 

[MAranger]

Well seeing as i'm looking in the neighborhood of 5 degrees for my 3" of extra coil length, my 0-3 deg bushings should be plenty to compensate for human error. And if I'm under I add a coil spacer.

You gotta make adjustments to the beam based on what the actual loaded ride height will be. You could hang the cut beam securely with flat stock or something to the frame/coil bucket AT LOADED RIDE HEIGHT and tweak way until the spindle seat reads zero on angle finder. boom, zero degrees camber.

 

[CopyKat]

You gotta make adjustments to the beam based on what the actual loaded ride height will be. You could hang the cut beam securely with flat stock or something to the frame/coil bucket AT LOADED RIDE HEIGHT and tweak way until the spindle seat reads zero on angle finder. boom, zero degrees camber.

That's the way to do it.