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d35 into a 2wd


don't get me wrong, if you had a 4wd already I would recommend staying with the TTB.

but since you are starting from scratch, SAS is the way to go.
 
it might be easier to coonvert a 2wd to 4wd unsing a straight axle........ just a thought

that is what i am doing right now.using leaf sprung wrangler front axle and springs.i have a high pinion d30 with TJ shafts and 410 gears. no idea about TTB axles,but if i want to,there is a huge aftermarket for the lowly D30,from alloy axles to CTM axle u joints,to every kind of locker and locking hubs.and stock parts are a dime a dozen at the local pull n save.
if you want to stay coil,cherokee's and TJ's (coil sprung wranglers) are a great source of d30's.XJ's (cherokees),some came with HP d30 from the factory.i am sure you can adapt over a XJ long arm set up for the front end.mega crazy travel,and plentyful spares.

and FYI
on the crossmember rivets--grind the heads down almost flat (less than 1/8 in) then air chisel them from the side--they pop right off.replace with grade 8 hardware,and you are golden!!

scott
 
If I end up goin' with the SAS, i'll probably use a coil spring/radius arm setup with an Early Bronco axle. I may even go with an Early Bronco d30 to begin with, because its cheaper than the D44s... But who knows.
 
The Jeep D30 is a better axle than an EB D30

I wouldn't bother with all the bling alloy stuff ona D30 though, you're almost guaranteed to move the weakest link to the ring & pinion gears.
I'd simply do the Spicer 5-760s and full-circle clips on the stock shafts and be done with it (some of the later 30s already have the 760s stock, you'd just need to put the clips on it).
 
will changing out the crossmembers from a 2wd 95 ranger and the crossmember from a 91 explorer work to convert to 4wd
 
will changing out the crossmembers from a 2wd 95 ranger and the crossmember from a 91 explorer work to convert to 4wd

All the frame crossmembers are the same for all years (some later ones are welded in addition to being riveted in however).
 
I discussed this on the old board. I have a 90 2wd ranger, and i REALLY wanted a 4x4. So i searched and thought and searched and planned and finally came time to do it.

torched off the ibeam suspension stuff, torched out all the crossmember rivets and torched the weld to the inside of the frame, hammered it to make sure it was all loose...
went and bought a parts 4x4 explorer for $300 then the guy i bought the explorer from gave me a hp dana 44 front axle ... so i had both options ... and being at the point where i could cut apart the explorer in a matter of about an hour i decided to go with the dana 44 for strength and less complications with lifting and front end headaches.

so now i have either a $300 axle and a free explorer, or $300 explorer and free axle.
 
I am always greatly amused by the reply to letters in the various 4x4 magazines
where the reply is always "Buy a 4x4 instead of converting your 2wd"

But somewhere around here I have a 4wheeler magazine where there is one of those replys and literally you turn the page and see an artical about converting a 4x4 to a solid axle....

I've always believed that if you want to do an SAS don't cut up a perfectly good 4x4, but rather do it to a "worthess" 2wd truck:)

Yeah everyone says don't convert a Ranger TIB(2wd) to a TTB(4x4) because it's "so difficult".

I converted my 2wd '87 Ranger into a 4x4 by swapping in a 1993 explorer crossmember and hanging a 1997 D35 under it.

That part of the conversion actually only took about 18hours, but I already had the crossmember loose, I'm an absolute artist with a
cutting torch and I have a friend who's an artist with his MIG welder.

Those who can simply DO.
Those who ask how to do it probably would need to PAY someone else to do it and that goes from difficult to rediculously expensive in less time than it takes you to wolf down a BigMac.

as for the comment that later crossmembers are welded in
rather than riveted?
Actually ALL of the TTB engine crossmembers are BOTH welded and riveted into place.

The number of rivets and ammount of weld varies, but if they didn't weld it it'd make more creaking sounds than a bad horror movie

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Those who can simply DO.
Those who ask how to do it probably would need to PAY someone else to do it and that goes from difficult to rediculously expensive in less time than it takes you to wolf down a BigMac.

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Hey I can do it, but I asked first. I cant tell that the crossmembers are different if i've only got the 1 truck. So even the people who can do it might need to ask to find out all the parts that need to be swapped over.
 
Hey I can do it, but I asked first. I cant tell that the crossmembers are different if i've only got the 1 truck. So even the people who can do it might need to ask to find out all the parts that need to be swapped over.

Asking questions is what keeps this site going, nothing wrong with that. You have to start somewhere, nobody was born with the knowlage to do this kind of thing.
 

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