D28 spindle bearing?

[rusty ol ranger]

On mr B2 the drivers side lockout was self destructing .

Pulled it apart to replace hub, found the wheel bearings and spindle bearing is shot.

Whats the best way to remove the spindle without snapping a stud? Also ive never replaced a spindle bearing...im assuming they just ride inside the spindle?

Any info apperciated

 

[franklin2]

If the studs snap, you replace them. I had one once where someone had over tightened the studs, they were all stripped and the nuts would just spin. had to cut them all off.

They make a special slide hammer puller to pull the spindle out, it can be stuck pretty good. I usually use a hammer and chisel to work it off, but if you use that method you have some file work to do afterward to file down the buggers the chisel makes.

If you are going this far, make sure your balljoints are in excellent shape. Now is to the time to replace them with it all torn apart, along with the outer axle u-joint.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If the studs snap, you replace them. I had one once where someone had over tightened the studs, they were all stripped and the nuts would just spin. had to cut them all off.

They make a special slide hammer puller to pull the spindle out, it can be stuck pretty good. I usually use a hammer and chisel to work it off, but if you use that method you have some file work to do afterward to file down the buggers the chisel makes.

If you are going this far, make sure your balljoints are in excellent shape. Now is to the time to replace them with it all torn apart, along with the outer axle u-joint.

I dont think these studs have ever been off.

What caused me to tear it apart to begin with was the lockout casing was literally exploding piece by piece. That was likely caused by the cooked bearings im guessing?

Also....i should honestly probably replace the spindle. It looks like the first couple threads are pretty ate up from what grenaded in there. Or do you think i could try to file them down and get away with it?

What kind of special slide hammer?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So far I haven’t had to replace studs for the spindle. I usually hit them with brake clean and a wire brush or wire wheel to clean them up a little if they’re really rough looking, then some spray lube.

For removing the spindle, the backyard mechanic can spin the lock nuts on from a manual hub and hammer on those, but you can mash up the nuts and not get anywhere. I’ve also worked chisels and screwdrivers behind the lip of the spindle to work around and get it loose. A junkyard that I was friends with the owner had the tool that screws on the spindle for a slide hammer but they always just used a 4# sledge with it as a spindle protector. I bought the tool after that (actually a whole 4x4 kit that had the tools for manual hubs for removing the lock nuts). I hammered on the spindle tool until I bought myself a 3 or 4# slide hammer. Usually within 3 firm hits (and often the first hit) brings them free. That’s the way.

I don’t remember if the D-28 had a bearing in the spindle. I know the D-35 does though. I’m actually considering dumping my D-28 stuff and swapping my 88 over to a D-35. Less parts for me to stock and a stronger axle.

Also, I have cleaned up spindles that are not in great shape before. Less than ideal but depending on damage may be possible.

 

[bobbywalter]

is it a lockout or auto hub?


how in the fawk did you not know that bearing was toast? this surprises me.


jeffs bronco graveyard will likely have haye parts...oriellys gets spicer stuff too.

get the spindle nut kit if you can.... its way cheaper.. but also why they never have it. the dana 28 has unique spindle nuts and spindles. its like 80 bux per side depending on where you get them...the chinesium spindle is only 120 or so so the cost of the nuts is significant.


i used to keep junkyard stuff for them like spindles and nuts and rotors but i dont remember the last time i seen one in a junkyard.

the best way to remove the spindle is to pull the rotor and put your spindle nuts back on that tighten them up at the end. i used a set of nuts or modified auto hub nut dedicated for this generally.

remove the spindle to knuckle nuts.

if you have a 3 pound brass hammer its easier on the nuts...but a two pound or 3 pound works fine...start beating the spindle up down left right at the nut....not captain cave pig beating....just 2 pound beating...

then as it frees up, bias a gap to one side and put the chisel or flathead or whatever in the gap and hit from the other side..it will work right off.


now you know what to treasure hunt for at the junkyard. spindles nuts and rotors.... fresh shafts if they have them. better look at those tiny little bastard u joints while your down there.

they really suck.

 

[bobbywalter]

fawker jhon....beat me...

 

[bobbywalter]

the slide hammer does not always work.


a guy i think even from this site maybe, was having a shit time trying to do it with the slide hammer and had two weekends into trying to pull a spindle....i drove over to his place..... it was near flint.....beat the adapter a few times left and right and popped it off.

little things.....especially rust belt things.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ll also add that I usually take a wire wheel on a drill or grinder to clean up the spindle where it fits the knuckle and take a sanding flapper or wire wheel to the knuckle. Clean all the rust out of that all but remember not to take a lot of material off. Then I put a film of oil/grease mix I make (new grease, used oil) on things going back together to help keep the rust gremlins at bay.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

All great info fellas.

The hub i bought actually came with 2new hubnuts. Which is good cause i obliterated the old ones getting them off. Ill take a pic of the spindle and you guys can tell me if its worth saving or not.

@bobbywalter no i had no idea any of the bearings were shot. No noise, no weirdness in steering...i did have a slight vibration at higher speeds (60+) that felt more like a tire issue, maybe it was the wheel bearing?

Either way next week ill work at getting the spindle off. The u joints seemed solid at a quick inspection.

 

[bobbywalter]

wow. well....once you get it squared up...you should have a distinct difference.


at any time you have a suspicion....stop and jack these fawkers up.....i assume you have normal tires so that aids in the deception i would suppose.


then again....these things drive like trucks...so...yeah.

bronco 2 people....

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've never had to get too crazy pulling spindles before, usually find a scrap of 2x4 to protect the spindle and wack that up down and side to side with a 3-4lb sledge... when I was at the junk yard pulling spindles a couple months ago I found a Ranger front mud flap next to the axle and used that hard plastic as a spacer to protect the threads... I think I used a short handle ball peen since that's what was in the tool bag... but that said not rust belt... hardest part was fighting the ABS sensors since it was a '95...

 

[bobbywalter]

I've never had to get too crazy pulling spindles before, usually find a scrap of 2x4 to protect the spindle and wack that up down and side to side with a 3-4lb sledge... when I was at the junk yard pulling spindles a couple months ago I found a Ranger front mud flap next to the axle and used that hard plastic as a spacer to protect the threads... I think I used a short handle ball peen since that's what was in the tool bag... but that said not rust belt... hardest part was fighting the ABS sensors since it was a '95...

non rust belt.....non issue. it is amazing working on stuff out west older than me and it just comes apart like it is supposed to.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, I've had issues with stuff before but still this method has always worked, sometimes it takes a few scraps of 2x4 and several choice words. I do not envy rust belt issues... and try not to rub it in too hard most of the time but then I gotta rub it in others, you'll get that on these big jobs

 

[rusty ol ranger]

non rust belt.....non issue. it is amazing working on stuff out west older than me and it just comes apart like it is supposed to.

Yeah...its one thing i really miss about that 79 F150 i had years ago from alabama...i had to replace a leaf spring and even the ubolts came loose properly lol.

wow. well....once you get it squared up...you should have a distinct difference.


at any time you have a suspicion....stop and jack these fawkers up.....i assume you have normal tires so that aids in the deception i would suppose.


then again....these things drive like trucks...so...yeah.

bronco 2 people....

Yeah...i should have. But most my driving is 55mph roads...but im glad i found it because i was seriously considering driving it 3hrs north to my buddys property this fall

I did jack up the passenger side...and it seems to be good and solid. im gonna do pads on both sides so ill get a more up close look at it once the wheel comes off.

I also noticed my radius arm mount is getting kinda crusty...so thats on the list.

Ive been through whats to go through on the back end too and that all seems well and good.

The tires are 235\75r15 BFG rugged trails that seem to be in good shape...so im glad also i didnt go drop 500 on tires and that not be the issue.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Heres a pic of the spindle...it doesnt look as bad as i thought...