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Custom Driveshaft


85_Ranger4x4

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City
SW Iowa
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1985
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Manual
Any good builders out there online?

Needing a goofy length, nothing really special beyond needing a typical RBV telescoping one about 55" from cross to cross.
 
Tom woods custom driveshafts. They do excellent work, Ive had several shafts made by them over the years. Ordering from them is really simple to. They give excellent detailed instructions on exactly how to measure everything before you order.
 
Tom woods custom driveshafts. They do excellent work, Ive had several shafts made by them over the years. Ordering from them is really simple to. They give excellent detailed instructions on exactly how to measure everything before you order.

Thanks, they do have a nice site.

I would like to find a one piece shaft from an extended cab or sport-trac... Ranger ones get mangled at the JY though and ST's are scarce.

Aluminum vs steel which is better? Can have either shortened if I can snag one?
 
Aluminum vs steel which is better? Can have either shortened if I can snag one?

A competent shop can shorten and balance either one. I had my Explorer Limited aluminum shaft shortened and balanced locally for a little over $100 for my 1987 V8/T5 truck.



GB :)
 
Same - I had shafts shortened and modified for front and rear. $225 cut and balanced with new Spicer u joints.
 
I shorten mine myself. If i need a longer one o source a to long one from junkyard and shorten it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
I shorten mine myself. If i need a longer one o source a to long one from junkyard and shorten it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

That is proving difficult, the yards around me move vehicles with payloaders and the rear dirveshafts always takes a nasty beating.

They are up inside the frame more on an Explorer, they seem to survive better, in my research a Sport Trac is the same length as an scab Ranger.
 
I dont know how the yards operate in your area (our yards destroy driveshafts too) but I have called before and said "hey i need this shaft can you pull one before you move the truck with the loader". They have always been nice and called me back when the right truck came in. I have to pay an extra 20 bucks since they pulled the part though. Might be worth a shot to call...
 
I dont know how the yards operate in your area (our yards destroy driveshafts too) but I have called before and said "hey i need this shaft can you pull one before you move the truck with the loader". They have always been nice and called me back when the right truck came in. I have to pay an extra 20 bucks since they pulled the part though. Might be worth a shot to call...

I outta try that.

I live an hour away from them but they get a lot of later model supercabs in.

For ofrroading which one is better? It looks like the aluminum ones are pretty popular from the factory.
 
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The steel ones already seem to have an affinity for rubbing up against the fuel tank & it's skid plate when the suspension is flexed, the aluminum ones are even larger diameter still.

For that reason alone I'd look for a steel one over aluminum.

(not sure if one can be custom-built to a smaller diameter due to it's length, but if so, that'd be an even better way to go if much offroad use is in the cards)
 
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I dont know how the yards operate in your area (our yards destroy driveshafts too) but I have called before and said "hey i need this shaft can you pull one before you move the truck with the loader". They have always been nice and called me back when the right truck came in. I have to pay an extra 20 bucks since they pulled the part though. Might be worth a shot to call...

Asked them today and they said no. :annoyed:

The steel ones already seem to have an affinity for rubbing up against the fuel tank & it's skid plate when the suspension is flexed, the aluminum ones are even larger diameter still.

For that reason alone I'd look for a steel one over aluminum.

(not sure if one can be custom-built to a smaller diameter due to it's length, but if so, that'd be an even better way to go if much offroad use is in the cards)

I don't have a skidplate on the fuel tank, really my powertrain is pretty short and the driveshaft is headed downhill well before the fuel tank.



From what I could tell on them between an '03 with a steel shaft and a '98 with an aluminum shaft the shafts themselves are about the same diameter, the ends taper a bit more on the steel one though. Note how the major OD of the driveshaft compares with the yoke:





I do like how the older aluminum shaft looks compared to the steel one though...
 

For a trail truck sure. I would probably just use PTO shafting though, probably cheaper and plug and play. I don't have the stuff to make sure it is all aligned correctly or balance it though.

For as stupid common as these trucks are and given than I am after a shaft for about the most common configuration (extended cab 4x4) it can't be that hard to sneak up on one. Then it is about $50 to have it shortened and I am done.
 

That shaft doesn't look at all like the one we put into a friend's '93 SC... His has the same diameter (about 4" dia. IIRC) it's entire length. It was said to have come from a '99 Ranger (my brother's '98 4.0L also has the same shaft as well). It's definitely smaller than the aluminum shaft.

We trimmed the hell out of the skid plate... it rubs against the tank's mounting bracket now (but fortunately not the tank itself).

He has 6" lift springs (Skyjacker FR36) + shackles on it, so just by looking at things you'd think it would never hit, but it does (happens when the driverside rear suspension is stuffed upward).

I would say try to get someone with a forklift to pick the right-front tire up off the ground until another tire lifts up as well, and check your clearances (lifting the right-front will cause the rear suspension to twist more than if you just pick it up at the LR).
 
That shaft doesn't look at all like the one we put into a friend's '93 SC... His has the same diameter (about 4" dia. IIRC) it's entire length. It was said to have come from a '99 Ranger (my brother's '98 4.0L also has the same shaft as well). It's definitely smaller than the aluminum shaft.

We trimmed the hell out of the skid plate... it rubs against the tank's mounting bracket now (but fortunately not the tank itself).

He has 6" lift springs (Skyjacker FR36) + shackles on it, so just by looking at things you'd think it would never hit, but it does (happens when the driverside rear suspension is stuffed upward).

I would say try to get someone with a forklift to pick the right-front tire up off the ground until another tire lifts up as well, and check your clearances (lifting the right-front will cause the rear suspension to twist more than if you just pick it up at the LR).

Do any two trucks actually have the same kind of driveshafts?

Holy cow. Had steel forever, went to aluminum back to steel but now we have different diameter steel shafts. :rolleyes:
 
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