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crankshaft pully


zedx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
47
City
KCK
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
I've got a 93 Ranger with the 4.0L, been scratching my head for a couple days trying to get the pulley off the crankshaft so I can get the timing cover off. I was trying to do it without taking the radiator and condenser out but wasn't working so I took them out and now I can see that this pulley isn't like any others I have worked with. is there anyone here that can give me some clue how to get that pulley off? I have been using these types of pullers.

00112560.jpg

p522.jpg
 
a few hours later and 19 looks and I figured it out. I had to use the bolt to push against. I put a little pressure on the pulley with the puller then hit it with a 4lb. hammer and brass drift, rotated it to hit all the way around it. pull a little, move the bolt out, pull a little more, repeat many times then go get a longer bolt to finish pulling it off. I'm getting a new bolt to replace the one I've been using the puller against.
 
Everyone does that the first time.

BTDT.

Some people break pullers and/or harmonic balancers before figuring it out.
 
thanks, had never seen one like that before. hopefully if others have that problem and do the search they will be able to learn from my lesson.
 
At home I have the factory puller for the 2.9/4.0, it looks just like the puller you were using except it has a really L O N G "snout" on the jackscrew that can reach to the bottom of the retaining bolt hole and actually push against the crank without touching the threads.

AD
 
I would think a cheap alternative would be to buy a replacment HB bolt from the hardware store around an inch longer than stock. Thread it in by hand (don't want to damage the crankshaft) and press on that. This should protect the threads. Note you will probably need to grind off the threads near the tip, since threaded holes are never tapped all the way to the bottom.
 
At home I have the factory puller for the 2.9/4.0, it looks just like the puller you were using except it has a really L O N G "snout" on the jackscrew that can reach to the bottom of the retaining bolt hole and actually push against the crank without touching the threads.

AD

on most atv pullies that are similar the inside of the pulley has threads and a bolt threads into it and pushes against the shaft. I was wishing I had that long snout for my puller, would have been easier.
 
I would think a cheap alternative would be to buy a replacment HB bolt from the hardware store around an inch longer than stock. Thread it in by hand (don't want to damage the crankshaft) and press on that. This should protect the threads. Note you will probably need to grind off the threads near the tip, since threaded holes are never tapped all the way to the bottom.

the bolt cost me under $4 at westlakes hardware. I'm sure the long snout for the puller would have been much more than that. once I got it to move a little there really wasn't that much pressure against the bolt.

I didn't put it all the way to the bottom, didn't want to damage the threads.
 
Me Too!

There is a lesson here - I did the same thing. While I was working on it, the Ranger manual I bought for $30 was lying on a chair next to where I was working. For several minutes I was frustrated by the pulley. Once I stopped and read the book the solution was evident. I'm trying to read the book now - before I start on something I haven't done recently.
 
they are that cheap? the ones I buy for my motorcycles cost 2X that.

if you find it in the paperback chiltons let me know what page.
 

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